The Tesla Project

[allcanadian]

@quantum1024
I use a circuit contoller like this only mine uses eight segments instead of the four shown here. As well the duty cycle should be 50/50 on/off, to do this calculate the circumference then divide by 16. You can see that one brush is near the disk center, I do this to reduce wear on the brush as the closer you get to the disk center the lower the surface speed of the brush so it lasts longer.

[quantum1024]

@ allcanadian -THANK YOU for that info. the next one i'll calculate as you suggested and consider the brush placement, I was thinking about it and the speed on the inside vs the outside.

heres what i just built over the last few hours. a drive shaft and pully from a vcr, a small dc motor from vcr, a copper clad board which i cut and then rounded and then used a rotto tool to grind off the copper i did'nt want. I then put a small copper ring (soldered) around for conduction between the two segments of copper. Now i just have to glue the boards to the shaft. then i can start on the rest of the circuits.

What kind of brushs are you using, I was just going to make something up that would work. thanks!

[quantum1024]

So here's a schematic of my switcher-controller. not shown is the brushes touching the control disks. almost everything came form vcr's and my wood pile. :-)

[wattsup]

@Maximum

Just yesterday I was looking at my cook coils (I have 3 sets of much smaller ones) and wondering to use the primary (always said backwards lol), which is the secondary these days.

I am having a hard time following your connections but from what I have understood, you are first going through your cook coil, then to the relay coil. You may try going through the relay coil first.

In the patent, the motor coil equals the relay coil and Tesla says a choke coil can be "added" to increase self-inductance but I do not think he says expressly if it is before or after the motor coil, but one would presume he meant after the motor coil.

Also, I may be wrong but if you had a diode on the secondary working side, the voltage would then show as DC because it is acting like a bridge rectifier. I am sure @AC would know more.

If you can, please make a circuit diagram and post it so we know exactly what you are doing and therefore could comment more precisely.

@quantum1

Good work.
I hope you are going to put all those vcr parts back when you're finished. lol

[Maximumgravity1]

@Wattsup

After playing around a bit more last night, I found I can get a HV DC reading using only one lead of my multimeter ( weird...), and possibly explains some of my sporadic readings yesterday, and possibly explains why switching the meter only resulted in a moving of the decimal place (i.e. 361 became 36.1 then 3.61 in going from 500 HV setting to 20vDC).  In diagramming out my circuit, I realized that I am not seeing where the 47uf cap is closing both halves of the cap and discharging.  It is interesting to note, in the diagram labeled "Maximumgravity's Layout 2" below, I could jump my battery lead to "NO" and it would only pulse the relay for a few seconds, then quit.  Obviously, that half of the cap was "full".  So it appears in doing all these experiments, that I am managing to get cap bleed down of some sort, but not really a discharge.  This also explains the "surging" when the relay really starts to squeal...

Layout 3 seems to be the most correct to me, and it wasn't until I had started making changes that I discovered I could get a reading off of one lead, so when I get home from work tonight, I will play around a bit more with that layout (and obviously put the high inductance load into the coil instead of the cap) and see what I can find out.  However, setup 2 seemed to provide the best results - seems odd, but might make sense in that both halves of the cap are getting fully charged by pulse, but not an adequate discharge.

EDIT
As mentioned before, the two relay setup seemed abit of overkill, and didn't seem to be doing anything that the one relay couldnt.  Diagram's 1 and 4 are variations of the same thing, but sometimes i have to see something drawn out before I can visualize it.

EDIT2
I just had a thought, in looking at circuit 3, if I put the cap and coil leads on the "NO" post, and the battery lead only on "NC" that should give what I am looking for.  I am sure I tried this yesterday a few times, but will look into it again tonight.