about charging batteries

[prometei]

greetings

I've been reading different info on many websites and some questions have arisen

1. The user JohnPeter on gn0sis says that too little current going into the charging battery will eventually kill it.
http://www.gn0sis.com/index.php?option=com_fireboard&Itemid=97&func=view&id=6238&catid=41&limit=6&limitstart=6#6745

I adjust the potentiometer so that the current measured by my analogue multimeter would stay at around 50-60mA (I've read that measuring the current on this side of the circuit is tricky). I can adjust the amount of current between circa 45 and 200mA. The meter is hooked up between the diode and the positive terminal of the charging battery. How about you guys, to what values do you usually adjust your circuits?

2. When you charge more than one battery at once, do you hook them up in serial or parallel? From what I've seen on the net most people connect the batteries in parallel. Why not in series?

3. I've been conditioning my batteries (12V 3.4Ah) for more than a week now and I've noticed that once I start the motor the voltage of the charging battery rises pretty quick, for example on start the voltage is 12,10V and in 5 minutes it's around 12,40V but then 5-10 minutes later stops rising that fast and it only increases maybe 0.01V for every 30 minutes or more. Now, what I do is just let the battery charge for 10-15 minutes and then unhook it from the circuit and let it rest for a bit, then do the same till I get it to around 12,50/60 V. After that I discharge them using a PC fan (around 140-50mA). I was thinking maybe I should just let it charge overnight, continuously, you think it's a good idea?

4. In the film "Energy from the Vacuum" John Bedini says that after a while the conditioning process increases the power of the battery, so for example a 30Ah batt would work like a 60Ah. How can one check whether this is happening or not?

[pese]

Will NEVER kill

even if you hold only the smalles STAND BY CURRENT to the battery, to
hold the Voltage over years stabile.
(So its need in Security alarm system (the batteries ar normally unused m but must have (an hold)
the charging  for the "worst-case".

Pese

[Ren]

Trickle charging which you are refering to Pese may be low current, but current none the less. Confirmed by people that have worked with John directly, pure radiant will dry up the battery over time. So saying, I havent seen any one replicate a design which transfers pure radiant without some current (like the pendulum did). Prometei, I have found from my tests that the more current you push on the front end the faster your battery will charge. It does get to a stage where you are pushing too much though. This is one of the reasons a small light bulb in the trigger circuit can be a good tuning tool. If it comes on it is a fair indication that your coil is pushing about as much as it can and its pointless to lower resistance any further. I have a trifilar of awg 18 gauge that can be tuned to draw anything from 250 ma up to 1.5 amps. At the top end the globe comes on suggesting to me that there is too much going into the front end. @ 1 amp, the analogue gauge reads only 100ma into the charging battery, and that seems to be the best setting FOR THAT PARTICULAR BATTERY, (which is a 370cca car battery).

You will find that the bigger the battery is the more powerful your charger needs to be. Try setting your amp draw on the front end to match the C20 of the batteries and see how it goes. Also, the lower you discharge your batteries, the longer and harder it will be to charge them up. Google some charging charts and  you'll see the trends conventional charges go through. You'll also note that the last 10 to 15% of the charge can take a considerably longer time as well.

And always match voltage on the front to the voltage on the back, although it is interesting to note the oscillatory noises the coil makes when they arent matched

So if you want multiple batts of the same potential as the front end then always hook in parallel (with as thick a gauge as possible for minimum losses)

[prometei]

Prometei, I have found from my tests that the more current you push on the front end the faster your battery will charge. It does get to a stage where you are pushing too much though. This is one of the reasons a small light bulb in the trigger circuit can be a good tuning tool. If it comes on it is a fair indication that your coil is pushing about as much as it can and its pointless to lower resistance any further.

Ye I have a 40mA light bulb between the 100ohm resistor and the diode. Usually I start the motor at around 150-200 ohm and increase the resistance until the bulb goes off, it usually turns off abruptly without dimming, and then I just leave it there. Sometimes I do turn the resistance all the way up in order to lower the amp draw from the primary battery to a minimum and get the highest RPM's but after reading your post I guess that's not the best thing to do.

And always match voltage on the front to the voltage on the back, although it is interesting to note the oscillatory noises the coil makes when they arent matched

I normally have a 12V 3.4Ah as the primary and a 12V 3.4Ah as the charging, both are Sealake FM1234 batts. The voltage of course varies, as the charging battery increases in voltage the primary decreases, so I don't know how to match them. How do you do it?

So if you want multiple batts of the same potential as the front end then always hook in parallel (with as thick a gauge as possible for minimum losses)

So if I hook up two 12V batteries in parallel on the charging side (maybe with a 0.05 difference in voltages, hard to get them to be exactly same potential) and then I pump say 24 volts on the front end, would that do any good?

[Ren]

No.  I mean that batteries of the same potential group should be placed on back and front. That is 12 volts on the front, 12 on the back. You can have a 12 volt source on the front end and 24 on the back, and vice versa, but this doesnt improve charging at all.


For your 3.4 amp batteries I would set your current draw to around 170 ma. Please note that what I said about current draw is my opinion from my findings, and may not necessarily be the law

You'll find that the light will switch off abruptly when the wheel hits resonance and the amps drop. Are your batts sla or gels?