HIGH QUALITY TPU DVD Video Released from Jack Durban

[Bruce_TPU]

Hi Eldarion,

Nice experiments!  Spheric also mentioned what he called the "Comp field".  This "addition" of magnetic force should be able to be measured on the wires.  Do you have an instrument that can measure gauss?

More and more, I believe that the "kick" we are really looking for, is an "anomalous" increase in the magnetic field.  More than that which would be generated by normal current in a wire.  SM mentioned Tesla and his ability to receive and use the "magnetic waves".  SM told us to "tap" into those.  The gist of Spherics second post, was that with the setup he described, there should be an "addition to" the magnetic field, than that which would normally exist.  After that is verified, then it is simply a matter of control to rotate it.  That would then bring us to SM's "weak magnetic field" spun very fast over Litz wire.

I hope I have worded things to make sense.   

I am glad you and Loner are working on this.

We must find a way to "accurately" measure the gauss of this set up, IMHO.

Cheers my friend,

Bruce

[poynt99]

you guys sure of your posted NMR frequencies for iron?

i don't think there has been a consensus, and doesn't look right

bruce for example has 323 MHz. well at what B field strength?

looks like this frequency depends on B, and that at least some testing is done with B = 1T

so, in the earth's field alone, you'd be looking at a factor of 20,000 times slower

so what's that? oh about 16.15 kHz

DOH!  ............LOL

[wattsup]

@eldarion

Great post and on the right track. I am actually happy you are this far.

I will show you my next photo and what I have seen in the FTPU.

You see A and AA are where the rings are overlappered and cut. I think these are bailing wire iron used as an armature. Good old iron for primary to secondary coupling. If you look right above the A, you will see a wire comes out of the end and goes right behind the unit to a 4 connected something. That would be the secondary output wire. You can also see the other end of the ring cut and another wire exits and meets the first one and heads behind the tpu to the same connector. You can see the ring is coming off the spool with the glue stretched. lol

I think the primary is single strand 18 awg, about 10-12 turns per quad. Same as the OTPU. Hmmmmm. I think the secondary is stranded 18 awg. Of course these are best guess.

Look to me also like the bottom ring is two turns, the top ring is 1 turn. The secondary outputs from each ring are paralleled to the output. There are two wires that are coming form the output back to the system, probably to a capacitor. This I still have to work out the finer points.

This leads me to understand that you use two iron wire for only one secondary output wire, and you wrap the primary over these as shown in the animation. You do not need a control because each primary (Red or Blue) would be in series with one half of the toroid from each side and the toroid will sense the changes. There is a black wire that is laced in the toroid. I think this is where the control. It is laced four times on each side of the toroid. I will have to do a diagram.

Note: Identifications here are best observation at this point in time and are subject to change without prior notice. lol

B and C - Primary Leads on one side going to the toroid sides.
D - Left and Right Terminal from the mounting bracket of the Toroid.
E - Capacitor or Crystal or Oscillator.
F - Below the F you will see what I believe is an iron coil. Spherics anyone. You can see the shoadow of this coil on the left finger nail.
G - On / Off Switch
H - Four way connector - could be a bridge between both secondaries.
I - To the right of the I, between the two fingers, I think it is a round flat pancake type capacitor.

I think this is getting to be very very close.
Hope this helps and keep up the good work.

PS: Forgot to mention. I see the iron wire is a multi strand, not a single strand. This will offer more of the laminated characteristic to the iron ring. I think this is where I have gone wrong myself. Also the iron ring may explain the gradual build up of power. As the iron becomes more and more saturated it transfers more to the secondary. This type of iron ring, primary, secondary will be good because there is no place for eddy currents. And scalability is also possible. I have to think now of how the FTPU is using the flyback or if SM ever even considered the flyback. I don't think so and probably this is why the device was heating up. Wasted flyback makes heat. But right now, an overheating TPU would be a good problem to have. lol

[Dom]

Man the theories you guys come up with are great, there was mention of vibration, and i remember what SM said about these kicks, and how it was easy to produce by using jumper leeds, kick them together, and you get this kick...lol, maybe someone mentioned this already, the bailing wire in FOTPU is just away to tighten the windings underneath, so when the kicks do happen, hmm   i dont know, maybe im just brainstorming here, we could ask the question, why is the bailing wire ontop wound that way, it almost looks like it's just there to wrap around something for a specific function, like squeezing, ya thats it, squeezing the hose.........

@Jack, true about the dream state, I believe you there 100%, good to see there's a book about it, I've had this happen to me also, hehehe
eventually this maybe how we discover the workings of the TPU, it's just a matter of time when we crack it, there's good number of people in this forum working to that level.

Till my next post

Dom

[OzOnE]

Hi all,

This is my first post, so be gentle! I have been following the TPU forum for some months now but I haven't posted as yet because I don't think I had any ideas that you guys hadn't thought of already (and often calculated to the Nth degreeÃ,  ).

I was interested in the TPU from the first moment I read about it and saw the videos on Google / Boobtube. I'd seen many perpetual motion machines etc. before, but the TPU was much more in my field (excuse the pun) of experience. My main hobby (and torment) in life is in electronics - I wound some coils and a mobius type design a few weeks back, but never got around to testing it.

btw, I tend to type a lot, so bear with me. I promise to reduce the posts in future!

I was astounded to see that Jack actually came forward to give us some inside info, and I was even more pleased to see that he came through with the video. I have a copy of the DVD files (from the torrent), and I've spent some time trying to improve the video quality.... Although the video quality is a LOT better than the online clips, it has been said before that a better quality video won't give us instant answers, and there's still much work to be done. I only hope I can help in some way.....

I've attached a zip file containing the necessary files for opening the SM DVD files via Avisynth, so they will then open with the excellent Virtualdub. The zip also includes the plugins I'm using to attempt to clean up the video.

First, you'll need to download a copy of Avisynth. The latest version is v3, but v2.5 is more common (choose the .exe file).....

http://sourceforge.net/project/showfiles.php?group_id=57023&package_id=72557&release_id=366702

Then, in my zip file, there's a folder called "Copy into SM DVD VIDEO_TS folder" - you know what to do!

After Avisynth is installed, you should be able to run VirtualDubMod, then open the "SM TPU.avs" file, (which should be in your SM DVD "VIDEO_TS" folder). Then, in VirtualDubMod, go to File > Load Processing Settings, and choose the "SM TPU Processing.vcf" file. You can place the processing file on the Desktop or somewhere obvious, all it does is load the filter plugins (included with VirtualDubMod), then set the various levels and settings I've used for each plugin.)

This seems like a complex way of doing things at first, but this version of VirtualDub can't open VOB files directly, so we need to use Avisynth to do that for us. There are newer versions of VirtualDub/Mod available which I believe can open VOB files, but I personally don't like the way the audio processing works etc. btw, if you want to add the audio, you'll have to use DVD2AVI to extract the .ac3 file from the SM DVD files, then load it into VirtualDub using Audio > AC3 Audio.

You should be able to pick some extra details up in the processed (right-hand) image. It's still not perfect by any means, and I'm sure that much better settings and / or plugins can be found. I have spent a lot of time just getting it this "good", but each section of the video really needs it's own settings as some parts are much brighter than others or have more colour etc. (I've tried not to over-do it so as to not hide image details. Sometimes, the original footage will be better.)

You might end up with a logo in the bottom-right corner of the output image - this is from the Alparysoft Deinterlacer plugin - if you want to get rid of this, you could use Donald Graft's Smart Deinterlacer plugin, or any alternative. The good thing about VirtualDub is that you can move to the next or previous frame by using the arrow keys. This allows you to "rock" back-and-forth between frames to get build up a more "3D" image of components etc.

The biggest problem with the video (apart from the dark sections and lack of definition / close-ups) is the "line jitter" from the original tape - you'll notice that the black vertical lines on the sides of the image will be very "wavy" at times, this is probably caused by the HI-8 recording process / head jitter and can be a lot worse when the camera is moved suddenly (mostly in the big TPU section.)

@Jack - I'm assuming the HI-8 deck you used for the source has a TBC? Would it help if you had an external TBC. I would be glad to chip-in to buy a TBC that we could send to you. (I know you said you will at some point upload a deinterlaced version of the DVD, but please let us know if there are any gadgets which will improve the HI-8 capture even further.)

Ok, enough of that. I just wanted to put an idea past you all. This had been mentioned many times before (eg. Giantkiller's "stun gun" etc.), but one thought occurred to me while looking at the "reel" TPU (FTPU?) - when SM turns the FTPU upside-down, you can see what looks like a capacitor inside, but directly above that (on the top of the TPU), SM appears to cover something with his thumb - it definitely looks like a small circuit, and I can see what looks like three small electrolytic capacitors on the circuit. It's interesting that someone mentioned that one component looks like a trigger coil - I remember one of these being used in the Maplin 1mW helium-neon laser around 1991, but I'm guessing their main use would be in strobe lights, or more importantly - CAMERA FLASH UNITS!!

Again, this is just one thought, but it sure looks like the large capacitor inside the reel is a similar size to what you'd expect for a small camera flash unit. The typical flash inverter would charge the cap to around 300-400V, then send this through a trigger coil (when you pressed the button) to step-up the voltage to around 5-6KV. What are the thoughts on this, and how do you think this would affect the use of iron delay coils etc?

Here's a typical trigger coil (they usually only need three connections - a primary, a seconday, and a center-tap)....

http://www.rapidonline.com/Electrical-Power/PA-Audio-Video/PA-Audio-Kits/6kV-Strobe-trigger-coil/79411


Here's the link to the VirtualDub files: http://www.mediafire.com/?bdkkdkdrmcf

Thanks for reading my boring post!Ã,  OzOnE.

EDIT: Oh, almost forgot, where the two silver wires (bailing wire?) exit the coils on the right-hand side of the FTPU image, it looks to me like they're actually soldered together near the "trigger coil" and then soldered to one of the pins. This could mean that either the control coils OR the collector coils are joined to the trigger coil if the main coils are indeed wired as eldarion suggests. This would make sense if a portion of the output was actually feeding back to the rest of the circuit for control, or for self-running.

I would guess that it's more likely that when the magnet is removed, the voltage drop we see on the meter is simply the voltage across the large cap (without it being re-charged) rather than the TPU action "winding-down". It could also be that removing the magnet from near the main inductor makes the circuit out-of-sync and stops the oscillator / tank effect.

Could the camera flash unit (if there really is one) explain why the voltage drops slowly when the magnet is removed? (also mentioned before on the other thread about the big TPU). Does the placing of the magnet simply turn on the switching circuit to the main control coils, or saturate the large inductor to enable the switching, and the camera unit is switched on by the manual switch? (looks like SM turns something on when he gets the TPU out of the case, and when he puts his hand behind the TPU when it's sat on top of the VCR's)

Oh, and hopefully a more important point - if the reel is believed to be made of plastic (which is what i think), does it look to anyone else like there's a large winding of fine wire around the center of the reel (the hub part inside)? It sure looks like it to me. This might be the proper collector, (which ties in with Spherics design.)