Roll on the 20th June

[exxcomm0n]

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TPU COMMENT
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First off I must say kudos to the TPU boys if what is said is true...

There are a few people left out though grumpy zerotensor and err even sparks have contributed a lot of time and thought into the project.

Dont forget to give these folks a hand as well if it is possible...

If OU is possible electronicly it is also possible mechanically! No two ways about it.

I also left out otto from the "Is Durban's SM a Fraud" thread.
Great stuff these guys are doing!


@ all

I've come by some materials that'll help for 2nd phase (scale) build.
A ceiling fan dies, and I being the helpful guy I am replace it for someone, but I get to keep the dead one.
It spins real nice.
Again on a horizontal axis product, but I'm hoping the bearing cope with the friction well. Maybe the motor just has a bad winding and it can be repaired?

On the whole wheel thing.....I'm torn.

If I have tubes (spokes), do I need the extra material between the axle and the end of the tube?
What if I use aluminum tubes and weld them to the axle just to the top of the area the axle would go through if the tube was perfectly bisecting the wheel, and then anchored at its end with material the exact diameter of the magrod wheel looking like a very thin slice of a very big pipe.

Sort of like "The Incredible Water Motor" gif in the sidebar to the left, except each tube is  offset just to the side of the axle.

Still thinking on the base................


New thoughts for the day.   

[oak]

If I have tubes (spokes), do I need the extra material between the axle and the end of the tube?

My guess would be no -- see redriderno's vids.  (Very little weight other than the tube and what it carries.)

What if I use aluminum tubes and weld them to the axle just to the top of the area the axle would go through if the tube was perfectly bisecting the wheel, and then anchored at its end with material the exact diameter of the magrod wheel looking like a very thin slice of a very big pipe.

If you plan to have your rod magnets within the tube, don't use aluminum.  The eddy current will cause the rod to move sluggishly, as though the tube is full of molassas.  (Brass will have a similar effect, but not as strong.)  If you will only be using the tube as a guide for the rod, and the magnets at the ends of the rod will always be outside the tube, aluminum or brass might be OK.

[The Eskimo Quinn]

actually the tube i used that ripped the plate apart (ok bored the central hole out same thing) was aluminium, i just went for a very loose fit, it still fired super fast, going to stick with it for the time being, no worries on the main machine being ready, just got to finish the wheel again before then. one down one to go.

Think i may have stumbled upon the perfect rods with some control rods i just had made for the other machine. and have a couple left over i had made as spares.

I let you know in advance if i get it done well clear of the day,

[ramset]

Archer you are  ' one building son of a gun'    just a thought   keep the arms and weights[the heavy stuff] all straight   and offset the lighter magnets??[still keeping with the 33% rule]   should eliminate a lot of the torque twist  Chet

[Holz-Michl]

Hi there,

i just read what Archer posted on his website (the so called "maths stuff"). Even if my english isnt perfect i understood what the main principle behind archers claims are.
There is no real need to wait till the 20th June to decide if he is talking BS. His explanations seem pretty clear to my, unfortunately i am not an technic expert. I'd love to rebuild it!

What do you guys think of the concept he explains there?

Take care buddys,
Archer keep on the good work!

Mike