Roll on the 20th June

[purepower]

Sorry all.

I let my spat with exx get the best of me. Back on topic...

sm0ky,

Instead of using one bearing, add another down the shaft a few inches. This should provide the leverage needed to counteract the cantilever torsion from the wheel...

exx gave a good solution, only problem I can see with it is the shaft may screw in/out of the rear nut as the wheel turns.

-PurePower

[exxcomm0n]

Right, as if you had any power of dismissal for anyone in this forum. Maybe you have a little bit more authority with your computer game buddies, but that doesnt fly here...

I don't dismiss for the group, just from my personal interest.
You have reached the nadir point there.

And if this is what youve "been trying to convey all this time," then why would you post a rebuttal to my video. This is the point of my posts/video. Again, maybe its your "state of confusion" that allowed you to miss my point...

Yup, addled does me just fine mostly when I look around at what others are doing to themselves and their fellow man.
I mean look @ you being able to not understand what I was trying to say

With pictures even!

All yer fancy high class book learnin don't fash me none. 

You point is on the top of your head. Be considerate of others when bending over.

Apology accepted (I know its implied, you just dont want to come to terms with it because it weakens your platform)

-PurePower

(Ya, I assume you played video games, am I right?)

Well, if it makes you sleep better tonight to think so, rock on dude.

Doesn't bother me that you have this little delusion.

Oh good...more fun!
To tell the truth I haven't since Quake II. I'm so friggin old school.
Now it's tetravex, freecell, samegnome, and Mahjong for me.
Maybe some tuxracer when I'm of the mood.


EDIT:
P.P.S. PureP you must not have seen the locktite edit.

EDIT2: to rearrange and appropriately place comments

[exxcomm0n]

<snip>
How to join the 90 degree connections of the allthread gets tricky and the fastest easiest way I can think of is to mix up some small blobs of epoxy putty or PC-7 (but that is a little soupy to start for this type of application) and embed nuts in it at 90 degrees to each other, wait for it to dry, and then drill and tap the nut holes again. Then you can equalize their weight.
The other way would be to weld or braze them at 90. remember to equalize weight so all sets of 90 are the same

EDIT for clarity.

All that modification time and I still muffed it.

[Artist_Guy]

IMHO I would wait for ARCHER to get back for his input on this  Smokey has a good start and the magnet stock   how to deal with the twist torque on the cantilevered  weights  may require some more flat design approach for the arms not to twist as they spin   Archer says he has a gift for this kind of problem    why not let him show us a cheap effective solution [HE stated this problem recently when he turned 15 lb weights for 5 or so revolutions before the twist broke things apart\]   Chet   PS im sure he has given this problem more thought

Well, to wade into the muck (raking) going on here so much lately...and hopefully offer a solution or two...

To my thinking the way around "the wall" causing the twisting is to just remove it from the scene.

Use 2 electromagnets instead of permanent magnets, one at each end of the rod, with the EM's mounted on the wheel itself, the repelling/pulling magnets on the rod shaft will ride between the 2 EM's. The weights can ride on an extension above the actuator similar to the extensions currently seen. Use one EM to push, depending on location , or pull otherwise. Hall effect or reed switches, or fiber optics and photocells can switch the EM's, and you can either use brushes or other means onboard, or off, to transfer power to them.

This way, there's no twist if the rods are braced or in guided bearings correctly, and you can shoot the rod up the same time you pull it, and you can secure latch it as you go up anyway (even if using regular magnets) via  U-shaped hinge pin (nail hinge works) to flop down onto a series of ramp steps alongside the rod/shaft...so as it goes up, it is latched into place...as it comes down in the 5 o'clock area, the tension releases, the u-pin flops down, another nail prevents it from falling all the way back down as the wheel rotates, so gravity (add a small counterweight) flops it back into the latch zone at 12 O'clock ready for the next up-cycle. Picture attached, hopefully clear enough. Can use a lighter wheel this way since you are not using it to break 'the wall', so lighter weights should rotate it well enough, and also be easier to pulse up.

Having EM's at the base and top of a weighted rod though is like having a precisely shot pulse right in the middle of the works, no mixing and matching loading and offloading as it repeatedly goes by one or more magnets.

Anyhow, remove the wall that way, makes more sense to me. No twisting on your main bearing then, it need only support the wheel itself and attached items. I say all this from having built a wheel using regular magnets and finding it lacking, and moreso, finding that it's going to slow down no matter what, when hitting that 'wall'. So I don't speak from theory, but practice. I do know the latch thing I mention will work and save much redundant work.

Anybody using permanent magnets needs to have a fairly massive wheel (that's one thing Archer has correct). But if using the ramped step latch system, you may be able to remove about 1/2 the magnets in both arcs and still get the desired results. Would likely require adjustment of the mechanics for the latching if the RPM's got up there. But it's a do-able.

The problem then becomes mostly how to get enough juice to pulse the EM's from the wheel's rotation, but all of these gravity wheels present some kind of a problem, so, that's not really a problem problem to me, the solution to that will present itself within 100 years if not much sooner.     Naysayers in most tech industries are only right for the present time. New knowledge means new advances, new possibilities.

How many people would believe that invisibility is just around the corner? Indeed it is, already existing for microwaves via metamaterials, and one day for regular light.

All a matter of time.

Archer may prove to be a creative who let thought get ahead of action (or he may not), but otherwise, something will turn up one day, in some way. No harm in creating, dreaming and making things, even if they are futile, after all, most of these contraptions are nice performance art, regardless of 'success'.

Sorry for a long winded first post. This thread's been a doozy to follow.

Robert

[exxcomm0n]

Well, to wade into the muck (raking) going on here so much lately...and hopefully offer a solution or two...

<snip>

Robert,

Nice idea, nice design, nice graphic, and nice attitude/insight!

Welcome to OU.

Its a wild ride with socially redeeming qualities.

Nice to have you aboard.

EDIT: To be fair, your idea parallels some posted already, but your design could be best.

Go for it man!