Roll on the 20th June

[Fred Flintstone]

@Thaelin

Wow! Has your prototype operated with self-power?  How long has it run?

-Fred

[Thaelin]

   The proto had only one pair of slides and two weights. It ran from a 12v battery to show
the concept worked ok. It had no generator hooked up to it so ran solely from the batt. This
new one will end up having two rotors and four slide pairs with 5lb weights on each end. That
will make 20lbs of weight dropping at any given moment. I will then be adding the custom
gen head to that one. It will be rated at 24v output at around 60amps. You do the math and
see if that is not adequate to run its self.
   The actuators will have to be switched to 24v as well, but so what   . Think I can handle
that. Grab it and run with it. I will help as much as possible to get you running. And above all,
share it with all your friends as well. Build it and show it.

Great hollidays to ya

thaelin

  As an after thought, there is two slip rings on the shaft that deliver the 12v to the rotors. This
runs through a pair of micro switches that goes to the actuators. There is one more micro sw
on the outer side to stop the slides when they get to the correct point of travel. On the inside
there is a 3/8" bolt to stop them from going too far to the inside.

[Fred Flintstone]

@Thaelin

I worked on a similar idea a few months ago. What I used was servo motors mounted on a wheel and they were powered by a 4.8v NiCd battery. The servo motors (hobby type) moved "arms" and I was easily able to get the wheel to spin at a pretty high rate of speed. My test wheel is about 2.5 feet diameter 3/4" MDF.  Next I attempted to power a small DC generator. It was able to generate a little power but I really thought the idea would never work so I just took it apart. My mechanical setup was completely different than yours.

I would like to build your setup but I want it to be completely self-powered without a battery. I think with a battery it will be more difficult to prove. My first problem is trying to run the power from the generator to the motors that are mounted on the wheel. A slip ring would need to be used but I never found one locally or at a low cost that would be suitable. How do you plan on running your wires from the generator to the motors or battery?
-Fred

[Thaelin]

   I think you could easy use a pair of super caps and put the batt on to start it up, then disconnect
the batt to show it does in fact work. Just make sure your gen head is putting out about four times
the need.
   I will simply be haveing a centering amp meter on mine. If it drops to the left, it is using the battery.
If it is to the right, then its charging the battery.

   This is where I dont give a rats ass what is thought. Subtract 4 amps from 15 will always give an
excess of 11 in my book. I am not out to prove anything at all.


   When I put a pair of these in a van wired for 48v and drive it all the way to SF and back non stop. That
should do the trick, think?

Its all in the gen head.

thaelin

[Opaka Lips]

   And now that its out I can sleep. This ones for Archer. Since I have no family close,
This is my present to the world for us both.

   My unit has 5lbs on each slide making 10lbs. This little motor will pull it straight up
with ease. These were destined for power windows originally and are very capable. They
draw two amps at 12v and run for about one second twice per rev. This all mounts to a
wind gen head that is capable of 25 amps. I am being conservative in stating 15 amp.
The unit if built to last, will last for a long time 24/7. This is a single rotor now but will be
having the second added very soon. I have chose to make mine out of "what I could find"
to show just how easy they are.

   Time to rock the house.  If you have questions, fire away. If you are just here to ride the
wave, be silent. In usenet we had a list for that. It was called the plonk file.

   Now for that bottle of Fat Bastard wine I have been saving.   ;D

thaelin

At what RPM did your prototype run?