Roll on the 20th June

[purepower]

@ Exx

Can i find that type of bearing commercially available? that design is amazingly simple, and seems like it would do exactly what we want - i.e. provide LOW FRICITON linear motion.

i've been studying linear-bearings this evening, and i havent found any like what you drew. but it seems like it would work better than the ones i did see. that used sliders or ball-rollers, which is almost like this, but in what you draw the balls are inside the bearings, not up against the rod, so i think it would be better.

Have you looked at mcmaster.com? Theyve got great stuff...

-PurePower

[exxcomm0n]

@ Exx

Can i find that type of bearing commercially available? that design is amazingly simple, and seems like it would do exactly what we want - i.e. provide LOW FRICITON linear motion.

i've been studying linear-bearings this evening, and i havent found any like what you drew. but it seems like it would work better than the ones i did see. that used sliders or ball-rollers, which is almost like this, but in what you draw the balls are inside the bearings, not up against the rod, so i think it would be better.

@ smoky

Bud,

My 1st thought was nails with tubes on the outside  until I thought again about surface drag.

That just popped into my head next when I thought about minimizing surface to surface contact..

So, not commercially available (yet, to my knowledge ), but I think you could approximate the idea pretty easy.

Here's how (this assumes you have a dremel type hand grinder):

Start shopping for roller blade or skateboard bearings. Find out ID sizes so you know the size of allthread to get. Order up your (arm count) X 8 bearings.....maybe more to get them approximately equalized for weight.

Get a couple yards of allthread in that size and a box of the same size nuts and flat (fender) type washers.

These parts gets intensive and is optional, but I believe necessary.

Find the least common denominator of weight for each type of machinery used and alter (grind) each of the nuts, washers, and allthread lengths to that same weight for the type; or a sets equal, greater than, and less than for balance adjustment. Remember to label everything and to grind off the edges of the allthread  cuts for easy nut attachment (I think you have some tool use knowledge. That was for others. )

How to join the 90 degree connections of the allthread gets tricky and the fastest easiest way I can think of is to mix up some small blobs of epoxy putty or PC-7 (but that is a little soupy to start for this type of application) at 90 degrees to each other, wait for it to dry, and then drill and tap the nut holes again. Then you can equalize their weight.
The other way would be to weld or braze them at 90. remember to equalize weight so all sets of 90 are the same

{end of intensive section}

Whew! Just got done w/ the graphic.
You owe me.........LOL

Then build according to attached graphic.

I'm still thinking about the bearing "in" the wheel. I was thinking if wheel material was deep enough you could just route it out and embed it.

This is why I'm contemplating a "spoked" assembly these days instead of a solid wheel.

EDIT: BTW....as your building everything equalize weights, put it together, and then start on balancing the wheel as a whole.
Just my opinion................

EDIT2: and use a small amount of light grade of locktite on the nuts.

[exxcomm0n]

No arguments there, but now you must also understand why a 5:1 lever can produce 20:1 lift. Is it free energy? No. Is it the imbalance in the lever? Yes.

Apology accepted.

-PurePower

No apology inferred or implied man.

Get used to that.

In your previous post you called me a burnout and I'm supposedly apologizing?

It's the same thing I've been trying to convey all this time, why does this phrasing change that?

Go back to your state of dismissal.
Have a nice day.

[ramset]

IMHO I would wait for ARCHER to get back for his input on this    Smokey has a good start and the magnet stock   how to deal with the twist torque on the cantilevered  weights  may require some more flat design approach for the arms not to twist as they spin   Archer says he has a gift for this kind of problem    why not let him show us a cheap effective solution [HE stated this problem recently when he turned 15 lb weights for 5 or so revolutions before the twist broke things apart\]   Chet   PS im sure he has given this problem more thought

[purepower]

No apology inferred or implied man.

Get used to that.

In your previous post you called me a burnout and I'm supposedly apologizing?

It's the same thing I've been trying to convey all this time, why does this phrasing change that?

Go back to your state of dismissal.
Have a nice day.

Right, as if you had any power of dismissal for anyone in this forum. Maybe you have a little bit more authority with your computer game buddies, but that doesnt fly here...

And if this is what youve "been trying to convey all this time," then why would you post a rebuttal to my video. This is the point of my posts/video. Again, maybe its your "state of confusion" that allowed you to miss my point...

Apology accepted (I know its implied, you just dont want to come to terms with it because it weakens your platform)

-PurePower

(Ya, I assume you played video games, am I right?)