David Bowling's Continuous Charging Device

[Dbowling]

Well, the motor was still running when I went down to check, but voltage on battery two had dropped to 11 volts. Going to let it rest and see if it recovers. Also, the "bad" battery now has a voltage of 12.48 even though there was a light bulb connected between its terminals the whole time. I will let this one rest also, but I am afraid I have just fixed another bad battery. #&*$%!!!

[Dbowling]

My buddy reports that his system was up an running for a test yesterday. He hooked up an inverter to battery 3 and it squealed, indicating there was not enough voltage to power it. So then he let it charge for a few minutes and was able to run the inverter and a lightbulb as well as the 12 volt bulb he has across battery three with no apparent change in the voltages of battery 1 or 2. He has been playing with it off and on for a week now, and the voltages on batteries 1 and 2 have remained the same. Sometimes they drop a little depending on the load, but always return to their starting point after resting. Maybe he has something. I certainly hope so. I have yet to find the battery I want or the load I want for the motor, but am working on it!

[Dbowling]

Just to stay current. There are two of us working on two different setups. When we have something that we can share that anyone can repeat step by step, we will post here and at EF. Right now it is just a lot of tedious work trying different things...different loads, different batteries. I haven't found a battery yet that will do what my original setup did when I flip the switch. Still checking out the batteries I have stacked up in the basement. When I have tried them all, then I will move on to trying to replicate my original by altering a standard battery. That will be a little tricky and very interesting. Wish me luck. As is, we are able to make just two batteries last a long long, long, long, long time. SO far, when allowed to rest, they regain their charge. Don't know how long they can keep that up, but that is what testing is for. Looking at things like, can I run it on one set of two batteries with a third bad battery and then switch to two other good batteries and the same bad battery while the first pair rests and recovers. So this would take five batteries, but run continually. Working on those kinds of things.

[Dbowling]

Let me see if I can explain where we are now. Find a bad battery...one that only shows ONLY a few volts. Hook it up in the third position. If you don't know what that means, go back through the thread and figure it out. Check the voltages on your other two batteries and record them.  Hook a small 12 volt light between the terminals on the bad battery to keep it from charging. Now run the motor and slowly add additional loads to your inverter which is connected to battery three. I would suggest a 40 watt bulb to begin experimenting with. The motor should speed up when you add a load, and then run for a few minutes and suddenly kick into a zone where the bulb on battery 3 becomes brighter. This is the zone you want to stay in. If you add too much load you will drop out of this zone and the system won't produce enough energy. The way you get it to go back into the zone is either to reduce the load on battery 3, or increase the load on the motor to compensate for the increased load on battery 3. The two HAVE to balance to stay in that zone. Run it for 20 to 30 minutes and then check the voltages on your two batteries. You may have lost a little voltage during the time you were trying to get into the zone, but after several hours your batteries will recover. Make note of what you had to do to balance each individual load on battery three so you don't run down your other two batteries trying to figure out how to get into the zone every time. On my motor I might add another generator coil to my rotor, which will slow it down because of the magnetic attraction and slightly increase the load on the motor. In my original setup I had a turnbuckle I used to tighten a belt on a pulley on the motor to make it work harder. Soon you will establish that for every 100 watt load you add to battery three, you have to do something specific to the motor, and eventually you will reach the capacity of the motor to increase in speed, and this is the max capacity of this motor to put out usable power. If you do it right and take it SLOW, staying in the zone, you can keep increasing your loads. You should get lots and lots of 20-30 minute runs in and keep track of the data. If you do it like this, and keep track of your voltages, you will see that your batteries recover, and you eventually produce way more amp hours of production than two batteries could possibly put out. This is still not where we want to be with this, but it is working.

[Dbowling]

I am building a prototype energizer out of wood with 80 coils on it. Once it is completed and I have figured out all the different places I want to have things available for adjustments, I will visit my local machine shop and have one made out of steel. I know I want an adjustable mounting shelf on one end so that I can use different sized motors and motors that come with different sizes and lengths of shafts so that I can continue to experiment with different motors that will need adaptors to connect to my energizer. I know I want to have the coils able to be easily removed so coils with different lengths of wire can be put in their place, and I know I want the coils to be able to screw in and out, to adjust their clearance to the magnets on the rotor, eliminating any small imperfections in the construction. This means the octagon shape of the device must be hinged at some point, or bolted together at two points. Attached is a photo of my construction so far with only 16 coils mounted. Sixteen is all I have wound so far, so I have some work to do to get to 80 coils, but I'll get there. I also know I am going to have to put a threaded sleeve on my rotor shaft that will fit a bearing, so I am working on that. It will need one on each end and one in the middle. For now I can just wrap the rotor shaft with pipe tape to get it to fit the bearing, but I want to be more precise than that with the machine shop version, so I will have to use a larger bearing. A perfect build would allow me to disengage a whole set of coils from the rotor, but while I have already come up with a design for that, it may be beyond my budget for right now. Maybe some day. Anyway, attached is a photo of the present stage of construction. It's not much, but I'm getting there.