URGENT! WATER AS FUEL DISCOVERY FOR EVERYONE TO SHARE

[Damianos]

Hi my friend Greg,

Anyway , I have to give you again my congratulations for your work,
and to thank you for your new posted fotos.
I would like to make you a question if you allow me, please...
So, my friend Greg , could you please tell me , if you have remarked any difference at the motor temperature values, in your VW Beetle ,
when it works with, and when it works without "plasma fire"...
I would be very glad my brother when you answer this to me...
thank you again

Your friend
Damianos

[gmeast]

Hi my friend Greg,

Anyway , I have to give you again my congratulations for your work,
and to thank you for your new posted fotos.
I would like to make you a question if you allow me, please...
So, my friend Greg , could you please tell me , if you have remarked any difference at the motor temperature values, in your VW Beetle ,
when it works with, and when it works without "plasma fire"...
I would be very glad my brother when you answer this to me...
thank you again

Your friend
Damianos

Hi Damianos,

Yes, the exhaust gas temperature is at much cooler ... maybe -200 F or more.  After warm up you can still get condensation on a metal plate. 

It is sluggish when the plasma is turned off.  The exhaust pipe must be hot to make steam so I'm not making steam during all of  the warm up.

I am going to mess with the timing.  I filled the gas tank up with cheaper gas to test detonation sensitivity.  I'm not sure where the timing should be with plasma + water ? ? ? ... any suggestions anyone ?

Thanks Damianos,

Peace,

Greg

[Damianos]

Hi my friend Greg,

thank you for your very very useful answer.
I also wanted to say (I know that you already know that, and of course better than me), that when we want test the engine, it is really better to try first with a cheaper gasoline and after with a slight mixture with water (for example 95% gasoline and 5% water, and after this, to try with 90% gasoline and 10% water, ect , ect...)
But i suggest always to check the engine about any remarkable difficulty , of its turning on (for a new start).
I also believe that it is better to make all this test on a secondary engine (and not in our car's  engine)

I hope, nowdays , that  i will get a second hand engine to help me to make the experiments.

Anyway I have to thank you again my friend for your help.

Damianos

[zzzz]

Hi Greg,
   as I ever mention about timing, that relate with behavior of rpm increase after apply VexUs, I still not so sure about where the power came from.
   First is plasma make combustion more rapidly in totally time comsuming process, that make engine act like alitle more advance,( from my experiences, normal engine alway set to alitle retard for safe the engine ) that can increase RPM,  if be this way more advance will reduce RPM because timming is too much (same as add HHO mixing to engine).
  Second that i suspect is plasma create after combustion already start, so arround the plug not have intake anymore , have only exhaust gas that comprise of  H2O and CO2.  H2O+plasma = recombustion and push frame front more rapidly, in this case more advances and longer plasma period( maybe larger uf of C )can increase RPM...
  I don't know withc one, or have another theorys. But power increasing must have the way they came from...

   sorry for my bad english, i try to solve this but as i mention, invertor still be my problems...

  Hope this will help...thanks,
zzz.

[whizwheel]

Hi Greg,

I still love the way you are doing this project on your car.  It has me excited and I wish I was home so I could get started on my car too.  It is all I can do to sit still.

In thinking about your timing with water/steam injection I keep being reminded of how older cars used to run better on damp cool evenings.  I loved to race when the car was running that way.  It seemed that the better tuned the engine was the better the car run as compared to racing someone with a similar car.  Most times the race was determined by who had the newest points and plugs.  Now you have the best spark anyone can hope for.

We didn't change the timing then.  The cooler, damper air burned fine just like it was.

Now with this situation, what I would consider doing is blocking the engine rpm to about 2k and putting a vacuum gauge on manifold vac.  Then play the dist. back and forth to get the maximum vac on the gauge.  I think we used to expect about 27in on the gauge.  What I usually did then was clamp the dist there and go for a drive and try all kinds of throttle positions to see if it would "ping".  If it did, I would back the timing back down about 1/2 inch at a time till the ping was gone.  You prolly already know that setting an engine with a timing light doesn't always produce the best advance setting.  At one time I worked at a John Deere dealership and we had to put every overhauled engine on a dyno,   After we run one in for an hour we would pull it back into the shop and re-torque the head and readjust the valves.  Then it went back on the dyno and that time when we got it to normal operating temp.  We would play with the dist till we got the highest reading on the dyno.  If you set your timing as I suggested, it may behave differently when you have it on the road as as engine will change when the load is put on it.  After all tractors didn't have vac advance to come into play when the load changed.


As for the water, I would be dripping it in as I was trying it with the vacuum gauge.

Of course, I am thinking in old school and this is a brand new field of expertise.  But if you set the timing that way, you would have a good base line to work from.

I would also at the same time be adjusting the water to see how much I could get it to keep running on without misfiring.

Just my thoughts, hope this helps.

Good luck and God speed,
Rog