Selfrunning Waterpump-generator device runs 60 Watts lamp...

[Michelinho]

Hi all,

Critique is good up to a point. It is not trying to prove that you are right and the other wrong to a dead end.

State your facts and if the target doesn't like it, do not pursue to no end. The experimenter has to stay focused.
If he wants to share his experiments or only part of it, great but don't pry. We have to work together on this if we are to succeed. I use the critics to refocus, then I ignore those if the are in only for bickering.


Take care,

Michel

[666666]

Fritz: I watched James's video again and this is what I saw. Starting at the plug receptacle that is mounted on the plywood and where the lightbulb is plugged in, I see a black plug that appears to be cut off an extension cord or other appliance. Where it is cut off there is a pigtail, or "two wires coming out at the end of the extension cord". These two wires each have what we call here in the US wire nuts. These are just screw on connectors to hook two wires together. These wire nuts have been partially wrapped with black electricians tape.  One of these wires go to the top receptacle of the capacitor nearest the front of the generator exits at the opposite side of the capacitor and goes in series back to the top receptacle of the capacitor nearest the back of the generator and exits out of opposite end of that capacitor nearest the back of the generator and goes into the generator to the generator windings. The opposite wire exits at the wire nut and goes to the capacitor nearest the front of the generator. If you look closely you can see the connector just below the top wire on the capacitor where it hooks up. This goes in parallel with the top wire back through the capacitors which are wired in series and goes into the back end of the generator. This is in parallel with the top wire. The lower wire cannot be seen under the top wire going back into the generator, that is either because it was purposely removed to hide it for the video or was so close in parallel that it is hidden by the top wire. The capacitors must be dual capacitors or two capacitors in each can.
  As for the switch at the back of the generator. I would guess it is all of the below.
1. Where the wires are attached to, like a buss strip or barrier strip:
2. Diode assembly for the excitation of the rotor.
3. regulator.
4. and also possibly a centrifugal type relay switch that turns the generator on after it reaches the proper RPM to generate and turns if off when the RPM is to slow to generator without damage to the load, this would explain the sudden shut off when the device is shut off.
ANY COMMENTS WOULD BE WELCOME.
Definition of a Buss strip or Barrier strip. This is simply where two or more wires are hooked together on a neat bakelite or nylon connector that is fastened down to a solid surface to keep things neat and tidy. It has screws to tighten up and lock the wires in place.

[JDHardy54]

666666:

I ended up not going over to my partner's workshop last night - he was too busy finishing up a job.  So I am going over tonight.  It is 4:40 EDT and I'll be leaving in about half an hour.  I called him last night and spoke with him about asking people on websites for info.  He told me not to bother, that everything will be okay but I disagreed and told him that everyones' opinion, findings or any feedback could be a good thing.  He's bringing two friends over to his shop to give some feedback on the windings tonight.  Let's not worry about capacitors at this time.  The machine was made up to run with a battery and 12V pump.  This is why some wires are cut off and moved around the box.  The project we will be working on tonight is the windings.  That's the info I'm looking for as it would be the most help right now.  I've only rebuilt a few generators and motors and have learned the following:  the more windings you put on, the more voltage you get, the less windings you have, then the less voltage you have.  The thinner the gauge, the less current you are going to get.  The thicker the gauge, the more current you are going to get.  There is a mathematical formula to working out the balancing.  Anticlockwise vs. clockwise.  It is important to know where to start the 1st phase and where the end of the phase is.  That's a little I know about rewinding.  I am looking for any information that anyone might have.

Thank you,
James   

[spinner]

@ James:

Look.  You are here on a public forum that is frequented by a lot of really intelligent, dedicated researchers and experimenters.  Unfortunately, not everyone here has the same goal in mind.  Some just like to rip into people because they themselves did not, or could not, come up with anything new.

Please don't let one or two folks here stop you from posting on this forum.  Most of us "want" to learn about energy and different ways to create and utilize it.  Please ignore the rest and stay until we can all together determine what exactly you have going on here.  You will find a lot of smart guys that can help you, and you can help us.  We are all in this together and, if you indeed found some breakthrough method with your device, we are all ears.

Put it this way, you could be the Wright brothers back at the turn of the century and post here that you found a method of flight.  A lot of us would be excited and helpful, still, some would say..."no way, you faked the flight".  I am sorry that this is the way it is.  Just read the posts from helpful folks and ignore the rest, and keep us in the loop.  I am sure there are a lot of folks on here that agree with me.  If you discovered some anomaly with generators, and caps, and water pumps, we need to know about it and go from there.  I hope you remain with us.  Thanks.

Bill

Hmm, Pirate88179, could you be more specific? I'd like to explain a few things, starting with the Wright brothers "history"....
If you're pointing on people like Khabe,.. or me, please, just say so...
OK?

[fritz]

666666:

I ended up not going over to my partner's workshop last night - he was too busy finishing up a job.  So I am going over tonight.  It is 4:40 EDT and I'll be leaving in about half an hour.  I called him last night and spoke with him about asking people on websites for info.  He told me not to bother, that everything will be okay but I disagreed and told him that everyones' opinion, findings or any feedback could be a good thing.  He's bringing two friends over to his shop to give some feedback on the windings tonight.  Let's not worry about capacitors at this time.  The machine was made up to run with a battery and 12V pump.  This is why some wires are cut off and moved around the box.  The project we will be working on tonight is the windings.  That's the info I'm looking for as it would be the most help right now.  I've only rebuilt a few generators and motors and have learned the following:  the more windings you put on, the more voltage you get, the less windings you have, then the less voltage you have.  The thinner the gauge, the less current you are going to get.  The thicker the gauge, the more current you are going to get.  There is a mathematical formula to working out the balancing.  Anticlockwise vs. clockwise.  It is important to know where to start the 1st phase and where the end of the phase is.  That's a little I know about rewinding.  I am looking for any information that anyone might have.

Thank you,
James   

Hi !

The minimum wire gauge should be around AWG 16, thats somewhat useful
for 10 Amps / 1000 W, even with that you should operate only for some minutes,
then let it cool down.
To be on the save side - AWG 13 would be ideal - but I think that with this gauge,
the number of turns wont fit.

Whats about this generator - has it brushes at the end to supply the rotor ?
Is there a rectifier for the rotor coil ?

If you have such a rotor - using kind of circuit to limit the current there would
protect the generator - and help you to stay with AWG16 or 17.

This could be an adjustable power resistor (which would waste energy) or
kind of chopper setup with free wheeling diode.

@666...
I agree with your analysis, what concerns the way it shuts off -
I think this is because the way how the rotorfield gets excited,
On a asynchronous machine - the lamp should show a steady dim....


rgds.

You could reduce the number of turns by a third (but dont blame me
if it doesnt work afterwards ...)
It really depends on the "setpoint" of that setup.