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Overunity Machines Forum



reducing iron in SS by soaking it in slat water

Started by sucahyo, October 17, 2008, 05:39:10 AM

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sucahyo

Just thinking.

I see that many post about conditioning mention brown coloring water at the first step of conditioning. Do this happen because the iron corroding and producing rust? Won't the conditioning step will be faster if we do step to make it corrode faster?

I read that iron do not corrode as fast in NaOH solution.
http://cat.inist.fr/?aModele=afficheN&cpsidt=14127909

I think nickel added in metal to prevent corrotion. So I think if we intentionally corrode the SS we can have SS with less iron.

What if we use salt to reduce the iron. We soak it in high concentration salt water without electrocuting it. We clean the corroding part once a while. Maybe hammering it just in case missing iron make microscopic hole in SS plate. We can start doing normal conditioning step once it stop rusting.

I don't know if this make more bubble though.

Farlander

Hey man, nice idea.  Here's what my boat owner uncle told me,

The effect of salt water on ss is that it pits... it eventually will develop specks of rust... I guess the answer is salt water won't really work to build corrosion.

However, I have heart of this new automotive thing called carbon raptor coating, not sure of it's electrical resistance though.

sucahyo

How about burning the SS? corrotion happen exponentially with heat.

The attachment is what I got after burning and clean it with oil.

Soak it in salt water do not corrode it fast. Soak it in drain flusher grain do not corrode it. But burning it and soak it in water will make many rust appear in surface in hour. This brown is iron rust and black color is nickel rust right?

I notice when I burn the SS, it start go brown first, and if we burn it more it will become black. Maybe we should only burn it until it become brown and avoid to make it black.

But compare to Duranza picture. It looks too brown. Maybe we should have to make it light greenish brown?

Anyone know what color we should have for best electrolysis?


sucahyo

Just found out the name. It's called passivation. It usually done with sulfuric acid:
http://www.azom.com/details.asp?ArticleID=1142

http://www.shapa.co.uk/pdf/techdata.pdf



And it turn out that black color from heating is not good.

What we actually need to attain for SS conditioning? nickel surface? nickel oxide surface? non iron surface? Chrome surafe?

professor

Quote from: sucahyo on October 17, 2008, 05:39:10 AM
Just thinking.

I see that many post about conditioning mention brown coloring water at the first step of conditioning. Do this happen because the iron corroding and producing rust? Won't the conditioning step will be faster if we do step to make it corrode faster?

I read that iron do not corrode as fast in NaOH solution.
http://cat.inist.fr/?aModele=afficheN&cpsidt=14127909

I think nickel added in metal to prevent corrotion. So I think if we intentionally corrode the SS we can have SS with less iron.

What if we use salt to reduce the iron. We soak it in high concentration salt water without electrocuting it. We clean the corroding part once a while. Maybe hammering it just in case missing iron make microscopic hole in SS plate. We can start doing normal conditioning step once it stop rusting.

I don't know if this make more bubble though.

Those of you that are on well water may have a watersoftener with an additional Iron Out Container which contains a very harsh chemical that removes the iron oxide in your drinking water.
One is Potassium Permanganate  (KMnO4) and the other I do not remember but it came in a crystallized form and it stings  when  breathing in the fumes.Its called by other trade Names like White Brite.
Being on a City Water Supply now I do not have any of these Chemical to try and see if they would remove the Iron content in the Chinese Stainless. Chinese stainless so common now ,although it looks good it's useless crap for our purposes.