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Overunity Machines Forum



Fuel Vapour System - Got it working!!

Started by plasmastudent77, November 08, 2008, 02:11:48 AM

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0 Members and 2 Guests are viewing this topic.

gotoluc

Hi plasmastudent77,

thanks for testing this and sharing your work ;)  One thing I would recommend before you do more tests is to add one if not two check valves which should be available in most plumbing stores and possibly in the size of your main pipe. What this valve will do is allow flow in one direction in case you have a backfire. Add one as close to the carby as possible and for safety add one as close to your fuel storage container.

If you get a backfire without these you may have a serous fire to deal with.

An interesting test would be to try pure Alcohol and see if it would work since you can add water to it as they blends together but try it strait first and see what you get. Also see if you can get a BBQ thermometer to monitor your exhaust temperature since things can get hot when you lean out fuel or use pure Alcohol and I wouldn't want you to burn a hole through the piston.

ADDED:
When you get to the point of adding water to the Alcohol you want to put your fuel tank in a container of boiling water so to raise the vapor point of your water Alcohol mix for the water to be drawn to the engine but take note that to Alcohol will also vapor faster, so the best way to do this is have a separate container for water and fuel and just heat the water container. Use a Y to bring them back together and add a valve on the water side to regulate it. With a setup like this you can use gasoline.

Play safe mate!... I'll keep an eye on your topic.

Luc

yaz

Kickass work Plasmastudent77!!

Last week on the show "TRUCKS!"  The guys did a propane conversion on a 2008 Ford 150. They bought the kit and all they changed were the injectors added a pressure regulator/switch and get the trucks computer flashed. There was NO WATER INJECTION to keep the valves cool!!
Whoever said, that you need extra fuel to cool valves is full of it!

The auto makers that program the computer to dump extra fuel so it "cools the valves" is just an excuse to waste more fuel! It just carbons up your engine faster and dirtys up your oil all to get you back to the pumps faster!

Go outside check the oil level in your vehicle and smell the dipstick if it smells like gasoline, that means your piston rings are shot and that "extra" fuel is washing down the cylinder walls diluting your oil and ending up in your oil pan...get enough gas in there and it'll blow the oil pan off your engine!! Mechanic friend of mine seen it happen!  My last car had bad rings and sure as hell the oil smelled like gas!!! Had to change the oil pretty damm quick! Leaky injectors cause the same problem but then the engine runs like a bag of sh@t!!

The carb on my Toro lawnmower doesn't shoot extra fuel down the intake, that must mean that my valves are burnt to a crisp....ya ok! The damm thing only starts on no more than 2 pulls ever since I bought it new in 2001 and not one problem with the 6.5HP engine and loads of power!

http://ezinearticles.com/?Propane-Auto-Conversions---Is-it-a-Better-Solution-For-My-Engine?&id=1518811

The guys on TRUCKS also talked to a guy with a towing business that only used propane for his tow truck and it had over 380,000 miles on it. He said he tore the engine down to rebuild it and guess what?...There was NO carbon buildup...NO unusual wear patterns...the inside of the engine looked almost new and he didn't have to change the oil as often as he did before when it ran on gasoline...duh! Oh Yeah, no burnt valves!!

Not sure where this stupid rumor started about burnt valves but every natural gas/propane converted vehicle does NOT have anything to cool the valves!!! So stop spreading bullshit!

Instead of trying to improve the vapor setup we're now sidetracked how to add a water injector...you don't need it.

Now you will need a fuel heater, because when the fuel vaporizes it cools so after a while the fuel won't want to vaporize that well especially in the winter. That's what we need to work on.

Here's some inspiration...

He cut the fuel injector lines and adapted the whole thing to run on fuel vapors, used trial an error to convert a 1992 geo storm and he's getting 0.8L/100km!! -no water injection :P

http://www.greenoptimistic.com/2008/07/17/john-weston-vapors-fuel-463-mpg/


pese

Sorry for my mistake, i understand this wron. I look for the car system that was running 130 years ago with water- vapor. asolinine and gaz, from them are all type know. That system taht wrk like an normal exposion-motor on minaroil base was existing before with water if anybody know this . post this here Thanks. Propane (campinggaz) als water/Gasoline
(as emulsion - aswell as varor , fume enz) and this things what you discussinge here , i have done near 50 yeras ago
I look for mor knowledges and experiences to LEARN from this-  (Sorry ,that i was in the wrong tread  for my (water) Vapor interest)
Pese.
Skype Member: pesetr (daily 21:00-22:00 MEZ (Berlin) Like to discussing. German English Flam's French. Special knowledges in "electronic area need?
ask by messey, will help- so i can...

Chris31

Excellent work plasmastudent77

Whats the small hole for drilled on the T-piece near the intake? How long do you need to run it on carb before switching to fume?

I was thinking of removing the carb all together, squirt some fuel by the intake and hopefully the few seconds running is enough to get the fumes working and keep the engine running.

plasmastudent77

Hi All,

Thanks for the feedback - another reason I love sharing!!

OK, the water injection I can scarp. Just after I posted I wondered about LPG on taxis and how they cope, so yeah maybe the unburnt fuel thing is a diversion.

Safety - Luc, good point. Yes this was al put together in an afternoon so it was first attempt.

Starting - on carby for say 1 minute, then switch to vapours then run on that. Need to keep fuel level up so enough vapours are available,. Fuel heating - good point.  Need to investigate safety interlocks etc for this.

The small hole near the carb was where I was running water injection but too much H2O as it will stop the motor, so have to experiment more. Now that its a pile of hooey about water injection for valve cooling, it may not be needed  :-)

I'll try other fuels as suggested Luc, and let you know. 95% ethanol will be one test...

Will post back soon.

Cheers