Joule Thief

[WilbyInebriated]

@WilbyInebriated

I do speak french but it dosen' t say , but i can get you the math.
And think of it i may have a English version.

i will be back

thank you mark!
all i could make out was something about variable capacitor, circuit freq. derived from this calculation and something about a bobbin.

[Mk1]

@all And will

http://v3.espacenet.com/publicationDetails/biblio?CC=FR&NR=2680613A1&KC=A1&FT=D&date=19930226&DB=&locale=en_V3

There is also a translator on other pages, so you should all be ok

Mark

[Pirate88179]

@ Jim:

Great video of your success!!!!  I will have to make one soon using my new little digital cam I got a few weeks ago.  I am not impressed with the lens it has.

In my mind, if you can run a 12 volt fan for a few seconds......then you can run it much longer with a few adjustments here and there. Unfortunately, I don't know what those might be.  You will figure it out though.

@ Jeanna:

I will do some more run time experiments with the new caps when I can.  I have no idea what the charging curve is for these and I only hit it with the battery power for a few seconds.  I can check that next time with the meter.  I am impressed with your work on the breadboard....mine is not here yet.  It looks like it sure beats soldering and desoldering for many experiments with different components.

@ All:

My gosh, we have broken the 100 page level and over 1,000 posts already!!!!!  This is truly a group effort here.  Thank you all.

Bill

[WilbyInebriated]

here is jim/electricme's Video0012.3gp converted to .avi for those who don't have a .3gp player.
it seems the conversion to .avi bloated the nice small file jim did to something beyond the 250kb limit allowed by this forum. so here is an external link. Video0012.avi

[electricme]

@ jeanna,
@ all others (some help with geting through the JT mase)
There are lots of help avaliable, this post does not encroach upon that help, it is only provided to enhanse it.

I have been a bit involved with my own JT sorting its problems out, but I have noticed seeing your posts and enjoyed them.
Now, this is a long post, so grab a cuppa T and a bikky (cookie for the yanks). or a bag of lollies

You are doing well with this new JT of yours jeanna, nice pics to show us all you got it working. Lit up LEDs show you have  voltage and a bit of current. Well done. I have also noticed you are not short of hollering for HELP, good on you.

OK have you ever taken a voltage reading without the LEDS, except for the single one as we see in the circuit that was posted way back at the start of this thread?
If you havent, see if you can do a reading, the volts, then current, make sure you use a full battery, this will always be your BASE readings if you need to work out any mods you do to it in the future.

That said, I also found with my own setup (JT) the LED on the orig JT always dims, if I put a load on the circuit suppplying the HZ to anything I connect to it.
The day it brightens up, brighter than its normal brightness, then just mabe thats OU.

If I connect the flat bat to be recharged, the LED dimms
If I connect the CAP                            the LED dimms
If I connect the 12v DC PC fan              the LED dimms
If I connect the Buzzer Coil                  the LED dimms

What I am saying, don't worry too much at this stage if the LED dimms, its acting as a Visual Indicator, mA or Discharge gauge right now.
At least you will have output.

OK you can modify or begin by building a new torrid, I mainly put that in because as sure as eggs, there is going to be someone who will stumble on this thread and say HUUUHHH


Get a HB LED, place it between the bare ends of the torrids output wires, take note of the "flat" spot at the base on the bottom of the LED, this is the NEGATIVE leg of this LED.

Note ***,when the LED lites up, take note of the polaritory, mark down the (+) lead, as this thing puts out DC at hi frequencies, and the LED can tell you which copper wire end is positave even if the DMM says it is AC.
We are going tobe passing dc at hi Z through these diodes.

If you can light up a HiBright LED on the output of the 1st torrid, then you are making Hz, and lots of them, over 200KHz in fact.
So you next need to put 2 diodes on this output, one facing one way on one wire, one facing the other way on the other wire.

Heres how to do this.
Hold up a diode with the silver band to it's right, solder the other end to the wire from the torrid that you found was (+)
Hold up a diode with the silver end to it's left, solder the other end the the remaining outwire from the torrid (-)

This becomes the source of energy you will now be working with.

Now, measure the outputs, see what you have on the ends of these 2 diodes (both IN4004 or IN4007)

You should be come aware that the measurements go wonky, here reality, normal stuff gets the flick, on my setup I can measure both AC and DC, thats the nature of this beast the JT.
Remember back to when you were measuring your Stubblefield Cell, you got unusual readings? this is a bit like that now.

OK jeanna, from this point, is where you make it work for you, you have to feed this funny output into "another" torrid.
You can beef up the output of the original torrid by making it with different ratio windings, only you can decide how many turns you want to put on the Primary and secondary.
Perhapse a ratio of 1 to 1 (not bifile), or wound 2:1 or 3:1 or 4:1, this means, say for example, make the primary coil 50 turns, them if its ratio is 2:1 then the secondary is 100 turns, I think you got that now.

Or as I did, my primary is 100 turns T+ 20 turns T+ 20 turns T + etc etc "T" = taps on the primary coil.
I then used a 12 position switch to select the HT output I want, it is a research tool torrid.

There is just  2 seperate coils on this torrid, the input coil and the output coil. Those making bigger ones could have several secondaries and you could connect them in series or parallel, but watch the phasing.

Measure the output of this coil, no load, see if it works, no good proceeding further if it got no output.

The next step is to rectify the "output" derived from the second torrid.
Solder the 2 x (~)  legs of the "bridge diode" to the output winding or coil you made.
Next step, measure the output of the Positave and Negative, no output, go back 1 step and check connections or check diodes.
 
It works? good, now, what was the reading you got? might be very low to high to very high, output, don't worry about high output.

ELECTROLYTICs
Be very careful with these doovers kiddies, they can pack a real punch in one way or another.
Connect it reverse polarity and if you are lucky it wont go boom, so tripple check your connections.

Solder pos wire to pos on cap
Solder Neg wire to neg on cap
WILL the voltage marked on the cap be able to handle the voltage you will throw at it?
DOUBLE CHECK.
I got hit by the canister of one of these things once, it had an inturnal fault, and it struck my collor bone (Clavacle) and left a bloody round mark as well AND IT HURTS BIG TIME.

Get a electrolytic capacitor, to match the voltage, start off with those in PC power supplies, rip them out and solder them in here.

Switch on 1.5 v battery, watch meter, if it slowly creeps up the scale, well and good.
WARNING, from this point on, look out, as pirate knows (and this kid eme), a hefty whack is waiting for those who have careless pinkies.

OK jeanna, if you got this far and you got juice outa the cap, thats good, you now got something you can play with or do things with and are now up to where I am at.

All those reading this thread, if you got to here, go and look for P101, scroll down to where electricme has posted a video showing you a 12v DC fan being powered for several seconds by a 1.2v battery, not a 1.5v battery.
.
There you are jeanna, hope you made some sence outa this.
At all I apologise for the long post.

jim electricme