Joule Thief

[Pirate88179]

Jeanna:

On the ones they are sending me (Using XEE2's part number in its entirety) there is no coating of any kind.  No epoxy or paint, just bare ferrite.  That is what it says on my confirmation order that was emailed to me.  Nice job on finding the distributor info and speaking with them.  I can't believe these would sell for $2.00 in our small quantities.  We could get around a minimum order by pooling our order here if we need to.  From what you are saying, we could get like 15 toroids for the minimum order and split them up among us here.  Nice work.

***EDIT***  Now I just need to find a mag wire supplier that has longer spools than my local Radio Shack.

Bill

[Pirate88179]

Jeanna:

One more thing.  If you get one of Dr. Stiffler's new boards (SEC-18-1) you can "broadcast" your light into different rooms wirelessly  with hardly any additional drain on the primary unit.

Bill

[crowclaw]

@ All,

To help those who may be newcomers to electronics or have limited technical knowledge but enjoy experimenting:

Although these JT oscillators are very simple in form the whole operating concept depends on many circuit factors that can influence the performance and hence output voltage etc of your circuits. Various device types for instance often present varied results, and one of the main reasons is down to the gain (Hfe) of the device in use. The hfe is the change in base current necessary to influence the change in the devices collector current, this current ultimately is the output switching current at the secondary of the JT with currents  in the order of several milliamps (Ma) to several amps for large power devices. The preset control in the base circuit thus has a major influence on the circuits performance by controlling the current gain of the device and likewise the amplitude of the signal across the primary_including a shift in the basic resonant frequency as the controlled parameters of the circuit are altered. It's all about efficiency and logging your results as you experiment. There are many  circuit configurations for producing high voltage and power levels from low level input sources, so where possible keep a close eye on the input source current during trials.   
Everybody is back on track again... well done  Kind Regards

[jeanna]

  I can't believe these would sell for $2.00 in our small quantities.  We could get around a minimum order by pooling our order here if we need to.  From what you are saying, we could get like 15 toroids for the minimum order and split them up among us here.  Nice work.

***EDIT***  Now I just need to find a mag wire supplier that has longer spools than my local Radio Shack.



One more thing.  If you get one of Dr. Stiffler's new boards (SEC-18-1) you can "broadcast" your light into different rooms wirelessly  with hardly any additional drain on the primary unit.

OK 3 things.
Thanks. I was hoping this would work out like this.
They can sell for $2 because they have a minimum order.
I like this kind of business. It seems more honest to me.

Gobrushless.com
He is a great guy.
He puts up mag wire in lengths up to 1/4 lb, which is just enough for a small bedini motor.
The" newby wire" is a small spool that has lots of wire I forget but it is more than RS and it is cheaper.
I still buy from rs from time to time, but gobrushless has 3 colors of 24, 26,28 awg wire and reasonable shipping. (he sells parts for model airplanes with brushless  motors.)



I have been considering Dr Stiffler's thing. I just hate headaches, and sometimes people even the doc say there can be one.
I might still do it...
let me know how you like yours, ok?

========

@crowclaw,
There is an element to this joule thief that almost everyone misses in the beginning.
I am not surprised since there are so many different ideas and designs abounding here.

It is the concept that MK1 first proposed about a year ago.
This is the use of the secondary, which he called 'pick-up'.
The scenario is this:
You make a joule thief and getter humming.
Then you remove the basic joule thief light (=BJTL)
And wind a secondary around the rest of the space of the toroid.

You will  get backspikes.
You will get such a tremendous rise in voltage that you will be very surprised.
But that is not the end of the surprise.
Your amps draw will decrease.

"Try it you will like it!!"

About the only not positive thing I can say about using only the secondary is that it usually stops working at about 1.1 volts.
But if you are using rechargeables, that is better for them.
This is the reason everybody should have a single regular jt... so you can really drain a regular zinc carbon battery.
(bedini figured a way to recharge all BUT the ZnC and so even the duracells have become rechargeable.)

Ok are you sold yet?

thanks for your suggestions.
C'mon into the sandbox and play.
Your skills and background are welcome.
(xee2 helps a lot. He is about the only one here with both a 'real' EE/physics education and an open mind.)
===

speaking of xee2...
I went to wallmart today and bought some lights. I saw but ignored those tiny little ones for $1.50  (what is wrong with me?)
But I did get a 20w grow light and a 10w cfl and... I am trying a halogen bulb. It says 12 volts and maybe I will blow it before it turns on and maybe It cannot turn on, but the little 1 volt light xee2 was able to light yesterday stuck in my head, and I must try!!

thank you,

jeanna

[guruji]

@ guruij
Here is the circuit just the core is different then a normal jt circuit. I also remember i had some trouble winding it the right way. I find out more about that when I make the bigger ones. I want to see if there is a difference in winding it north to south or south to north or starting in the middle.

@ sptrue
About the Rodin coil, I made one and placed 2 collectors on it (one outside and one in the middle) then i wound a coil like a toroid over it. I haven't hooked it up yet, I'm waiting for some parts to drive it.

Back to some reading allot of post in one night (night for me )

GrtZ

Hi Gilobob thanks for the schematic. Can you please tell me what coil wire  gauge is best for 12v batteries?
Thanks