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Overunity Machines Forum



Joule Thief

Started by Pirate88179, November 20, 2008, 03:07:58 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 67 Guests are viewing this topic.

Mk1

@jeanna

The base is where the resistor is connected , and the emiteur is the the one going to the neg(-) of the battery.

jeanna

Quote from: Mk1 on January 09, 2009, 06:28:50 PM
@jeanne

Great work,

thanks, mark

QuoteTell me have you had a chance to try other type of coil(brass, aluminum, or iron),

Mark
Please explain this. I was too busy and didn't get to ask before.

Do you mean for the secondaries/ the pickups? or for the winding the toroid?

thank you

jeanna

I have some weird kind of metal kevlar
EDIT: KYNAR is what it is called.
maybe/ It is covered and I got it from RS last year when they were out of mag wire. never used it, though.

hmm, I got an idea...

QuoteThe base is where the resistor is connected , and the emiteur is the the one going to the neg(-) of the battery.

thanks mark,
What I mean is, when you have the thing in your hand and it has no markings on it.

There must be a way to tell the pins from each other with a meter. esp the emitter/collector pins.

thx

jeanna

Mk1

@jeanna

I have started making experiment with other material used for the pickups coil, to see if improvement could be done , so far there is a good reason to think , no stone should be left unturned. I have made some experiment with aluminum and brass used as a pickups coil and i must say i have more question then results, others have started testing iron on the toroid and get exciting results.

I wanted to make sure ,you get the chance to do your magic.

Since you have made a lots of observation on the energy consumption , I think you you would be the best person to test this .

Tell me what you think?

Mark



Pirate88179

@ Jeanna:

Jesus posted this twice on here but, I did not want to go back and find out where it was, so, I uploaded a copy I made from when he helped me.  (I hope it is readable)  I needed this when making my first JT and Jesus responded with this picture.

PS My transistors were the @N type (American)

Bill
See the Joule thief Circuit Diagrams, etc. topic here:
http://www.overunity.com/index.php?topic=6942.0;topicseen

xee2

@ jeanna

Great work. Buildinga things lets you know they work. But, I think these kinds of measurements will help you understand why things work.

The current drawn from the battery is set by the battery voltage, base resistor value, and the gain of the transistor. The added turns should not make much difference in battery current. As you have demonstrated.

I do think you should be measuring the AC voltage across the secondary leads when the circuit is running but the leads are not connected to anything except the voltmeter. You will find that this voltage sets the limit for how many LEDs in series will light when put across the secondary leads.

Another useful measurement is the AC ma current between the secondary leads while the circuit is running and the leads are only connected to the meter. This will give the maximum current available to drive the LEDs.

The volrage and current used by your LED array will always be less than these values.