Joule Thief

[sirmikey1]

Slayer's Exciter, Lidmotor did some scope shots. 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ioOIT8hRv6Q
M

[altrez]

Xee2:

Have I been missing something with these circuits?  Does that tube really light with just one wire and you don't have to be touching it?  If it does, try a bigger tube and I'll bet it lights even brighter on the same power.

Bill

Hey Bill!

About 6 pages back I posted a picture of a 8 foot long tube being lit with just one end connected and its really bright. It can also run 50 LEDS at the same time with no extra current draw. Oh and 20 LEDS wireless at 2 foot! Again no extra current draw.

-Altrez

[altrez]

@ slayer007

I tried your basic circuit and it works great. The LED on the phone charger looks bright so this is probably sucking power, but the tube is bright.

EDIT: terminal strip = Radio Shack #274-680 12-position mini European style (cut off)

Very nice work. Thank you so much for sharing and the great drawings are a huge help!

-Altrez

[resonanceman]

Hi everyone,

I'm new here and am trying to play catchup to what you all are doing. I am working on reproducing Bill's 400 LEDs by creating my own Earth Battery + Fuji circuit Joule Thief + SuperCap => LEDs.

I have some questions, as there are so many posts to sort through! (awesome btw)

1) First, is this how I should connect these {EB => JT => SCap => LED} together? (see attached drawing) I'm not exactly sure how the Joule Thief adds voltage, but I'm only getting .9V and am wondering how to light a 3V LED on that. 

2) Second, I'm looking at Stubblefield's coiled rod (Copper and Steel) to increase the Amperage. What is the voltage stats on getting a Carbon Rod and Magnesium or other substances? What is best here?

3) How long does it take to charge the Capacitors to light the LED? How long did they stay lit for you all?

4) In using the NOAA's Geophysical Data, it matters if you bury one rod up on top of a hill rather than below it seems. This is the Vertical Data yes? Does one put the Copper on the more positive side in my location? (which would be Up, North and East?)

That is it for now. I'll see what I can't do with testing but I'm still getting my fuji apart and re-soldered and was hoping I had my plans here right.

Thanks!
~RK

RK

I can't  answer most  of your questions  but I can tell you that in your drawing the JT and the  cap need to be switched.

Bill was able to light all those LEDs because he was using pulses from
a JT
The way you have it set up  you would be powering the LEDs with DC from the cap . All your LEDs would have to be in parallel .......the  strings of LEDs like bill used are in series.

if your earth battery is large enough to run a JT directly    It would  be interesting  to add another JT to  your drawing  after the cap to drive  the LEDs

gary

[Pirate88179]

Hi everyone,

I'm new here and am trying to play catchup to what you all are doing. I am working on reproducing Bill's 400 LEDs by creating my own Earth Battery + Fuji circuit Joule Thief + SuperCap => LEDs.

I have some questions, as there are so many posts to sort through! (awesome btw)

1) First, is this how I should connect these {EB => JT => SCap => LED} together? (see attached drawing) I'm not exactly sure how the Joule Thief adds voltage, but I'm only getting .9V and am wondering how to light a 3V LED on that. 

2) Second, I'm looking at Stubblefield's coiled rod (Copper and Steel) to increase the Amperage. What is the voltage stats on getting a Carbon Rod and Magnesium or other substances? What is best here?

3) How long does it take to charge the Capacitors to light the LED? How long did they stay lit for you all?

4) In using the NOAA's Geophysical Data, it matters if you bury one rod up on top of a hill rather than below it seems. This is the Vertical Data yes? Does one put the Copper on the more positive side in my location? (which would be Up, North and East?)

That is it for now. I'll see what I can't do with testing but I'm still getting my fuji apart and re-soldered and was hoping I had my plans here right.

Thanks!
~RK

Welcome to our group.  Gary is correct.  You take the output from your EB to the supercaps or B-cap (I have used both) and that fills the cap(s) and the cap(s) run the JT circuit.  My set-up puts out about 2 volts @ about 19 mA's.  There are many large spikes involved with my EB or EER as we now call them.  We have found that these spikes will fill a supercap above what is measured as the EER output.  My b-cap is rated at 2.7 volts and I can fill it, fairly quickly, (1-3 hours) with only "2" volts input.  This is because my DMM does not pick up the spikes when I measure the 2 volt output.

There are 3 very good topics on setting up your EB and if you post your questions about the set-up alignments in one of them, it will save the folks here from reading about it.

Now, for setting up the Fuji or winding your own JT circuit, this is the place.  I even think there is a topic now for the EB running a JT. (Hard to keep up with it all)

Please feel free to pm me with any questions you might have and I will try to help in any way that I can.

Again, welcome.  This is a very cool place with tons of information and some very intelligent, creative folks. (Not me)

Bill

PS  The modified Fuji will put out over 350 volts so if you run that into a low voltage supercap, most are 2.7 or 5.5 volts, it will blow up.  Be careful.