Joule Thief

[innovation_station]

@IST

sorry but that crystal thingy is not free energy.

you have to apply energy to it for it to give electricity.
in this case: heat

it is based on 2 physic principles.
piezo electricity and metal dilatation from heat.

your finger heat the metal case of the crystal.
pressure on the crystal cause by the metal dilatation create electricity.

you would get much more electricity by applying pressure directly to the crystal inside the metal case.
this is use in piezo cigarette lighters.

im gonna leave it there .... 

ya know .... 

but you are incorrect ...   no argueing ..    we are not there yet 

lol

jim im happy your back round thease parts .....

were still in frist gear rounding second base ..... 

i dont disagree bout how it can be used but how it does work ....

[nievesoliveras]

@all

For the new people and old members. Here is something to treasure.
I did the composition using @grounloop's circuit posted here: http://www.overunity.com/index.php?topic=6123.msg142656#msg142656

Jesus

[electricme]

@all
I'm tired, it's 12.35AM in Australia, going to get cleaned up and then I will retire for the night.

I have been switching backwards and forwards all night between recovering a shorted monster torid and reading up on the forum posts.
I have also been reading with glee the verbal punch up between the fishermen in the rear end of the dingy ha ha ha

OK, the gong went off and its piece time lol

I have got my hands on a BIG torid, my pinkies are hurtin with "removing" the wire off it, ooooh woe is me.
These things it seems have the primary wound first, then a layor of clear plastic is taped over this complete coil.

Then the secondaries were wound, 70 turns bifilar, then 2 seperate 55 turns, then lastly there was a 18 turns of very fine wire.

This torid had a short circuit, there was a tri-filier it seems, but carnt be to shore, as I had to cut these wires off, as they couldn't be unwound.
The primary I will do tomorra (today) sometime lol.

OK some photos
Photo0296.jpg  = Torid in Amplifier, I put a 9v cell on top of it to give you all some idea of its size.
Photo0298.jpg =  Torid on bench top, 9v cell on top, 1.5v cell standing next to it.
Photo0300.jpg = 1 bifilar (70turns), removed, 2 coils of 55 turns each removed, 18 turns coil removed.
Notice the burnt insulation, this is where the shorted coil is , just under all the coils I removed.
Notice the clear insulation tape has turned a creamy white.
Photo0302.jpg = Shorted coil has been removed, I am holding the clear tape which seperates the 240v ac primary.
The clear tape is a very special tape, it has very high dielectric breakdown strength of several KV, use only this tape to insulate the coils.
Photo0303.jpg = Only the primary is to be unwound now, tomorrows job afta the clothes get hung on the line, well I'm a retired invalid batchelor ha ha.
Then I gota readup on the forum, I'm still 10 pages back yet.
jim

[gadgetmall]

TheNOP


Re:
@gadgetmall
"Has anyone tried that electro lizer  with a Fugi yet"

not with a fuji, but with a comparable output jt yes.
not much gas output.
not supprising considering the amps


Im not going to use amps . With a distilled water and baking soda not salt  they are making lots of gas with tiny currents . I saw one video of a little hho gen producing lots of bubbles with copper electrodes and a 9 volt battery .  jeanna and i and others are going to figure this thing out to produce something very usefull from this Jt Thread .. From the gas made with a one volt battery it would be possible to heat with run motors and even create Hydrogen fuel cells for electricity . This is a New Age Folks and we can do it !! We can Change the world .  All the rest are all ready Making Great Strides in this Field .

[MrMag]

Ok, I did some measurements on a JT just to show the different readings you can get. I hope this clears things up.

As you can see in the picture, my DVM shows 57.2 volts on the AC scale, the DC scale showed around 35VDC. Now look at the scope. My probe was on the X10 scale and the voltage reading on the scope reads 17.25 volts. Now 17.25 X10 = 172.5 VDC. A digital volt meter just can't measure at that frequency. Even when I used the bridge rectifier the voltage still only showed around 68VDC.

BTW the frequency was read to be 12.0 kHz. I would imagine that this frequency will reduce as the battery gets weaker. Hence the light pulsing on/off. This happens to mine. It will light continuously for a couple of days and then blink on/off for about 3 more days with the pulses going slower and slower.

As far as the current reading, I do have to change the leads on my meter for current reading. When I took a current reading in parallel with the bulb the meter read .85 mA. When the probes were placed in series the reading was 1.5 mA.

Too bad that everyone here doesn't have a scope to work with