Joule Thief

[gnino]

With this was like the original one I will try other toroid and trasformer in this day

Ciao Luca

[Pirate88179]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qDMoTEamTFY

This is a new project that continues some research I did in a video about 5 years ago.  Here I tie two HV-JT modified flash circuits in parallel.  I can power them individually or tie two together off of one AA battery or tie two of them together operating off of their own AA batteries.

What I have learned thus far is that I only need to tie the positive inputs together and, I don't really need the second AA battery.  I will be adding more flash circuits to this test rig and I will be testing the amp draw and, more interesting, I will be using a light meter made from an original solar cell made from the batch used in the first telecomunications sat. Telstar, launched in 1961. (Bell Labs)

The amp draw tests will be interesting.  I do not think that it doubles when I add the second JT circuit, but, I will confirm this.  The Cree LED bulb gets pretty bright and I think that if I add another couple of these modified flash circuits, it will be super bright.

Bill

[Pirate88179]

Here is a screenshot to show how bright the led bulb is running two circuits in parallel on a single AA battery. Later in the video it gets even brighter running on both AA batteries.

Bill

[MileHigh]

Bill:

I like the high/low options you get with your switches.  If you don't mind I can mention an interesting project that simply popped into my head after watching your clip.  Let's call it the "supercap lamp."

Imagine a large supercap, about size of a standard coke can or perhaps larger.  Sitting on top of the cap you have two JT circuits.  Then on top of that you have your gutted LED light bulb.  With some effort you can imagine a "torch" that you can put on a table as a light.  Naturally you have the option to put on a small lampshade.  Two tiny switches are at the "neck" of you supercapacitor powered table lamp to select high/low for the light.

Someone with good build skills could make it look quite nice.  Of you could go insane with hot glue.  Or design a proper chassis to hold everything and print it out on a 3D printer.  The big cap makes for a nice stable base for the lamp.  How long will it run off the big cap?  I am sure there are JT/LED veterans out there that can comment.

Now here is the hopefully cool thing that makes the project that much more fun.  You get double-duty from the JT circuits.  On the shaft of the big cap you mount some solar cells.  Imagine long thin rectangular strips.  Black cap - dark blue solar cells - shouldn't look too bad.  So in the daytime you simply put your supercap lamp outside.  You use the JT circuits to charge up the supercap from the solar cells.  So that implies that you need another switch.  Power is all low here so you could use very tiny switches.  I would even consider using DIP switches in this application.

A little pop quiz question:  You absolutely cannot have the JT circuits over-voltage the supercap.  How can you do that automatically on the cheap and dumb?  There is a smart easy solution for that.

This can be breadboarded to check if it makes sense.  If it's a go, I think that you end up with a pretty elegant solution.   Your set your supercap lamp outside or in a window during the daytime, and then at night you have a table lamp with two brightness levels that hopefully lasts quite a while.  It's "solid" and practical.  You just move it from point A to point B and flip a few switches and you have a self-charging supercap lamp with two brightness settings that you can put on your table.

MileHigh

[gnino]

Hi Luca

I've redrawn your battery charger schematic to go into my notebook. I use this "rail-to-rail" format because it's easier for me to see what's going on this way. Please check and see if I've made any errors.

Have you tried just using a single, center-tapped winding on the toroid, with the same number of total turns as your six-filar winding? It would be great to have two toroids, one with the six-filar winding like you've got, and one with just one continuous wind, center-tapped, like I put in the schematic, for comparison.

Yes the Schematic is correct
I have try center tapped winding with little toroid 26 turn the Circuit draw less current so i move to 10 watt bulb and Yes there is little difference in the bulbs
TheN  i hook up the six-filar coil and i go down in Voltage from the power supply to have the same ammaunt of light in the bulb
Result no difference the 2 coil  act the same way
I hope to be clear my english suck, later i make a video

Ciao luca