Joule Thief

[nievesoliveras]

@gadgetmall

I have the fugi circuit the way I see it. What do you think about doing changes to it in order to build the circuit that everybody will use to replicate your cfl light?

Jesus

[jeanna]

@Gadgetmall,

I need some help with this please.

I put the 50k pot in at the base and tested the amperage. It seems to be pretty normal, the higher the resistance the lower the amperage and the dimmer the light.

Conversely, the lower the resistance the higher the amperage and the brighter the light.

I have used the 100pF cap at this base resistor and it seems to make the amperage higher for the same resistance than without it.

Please review this.

One thing, I ignored what I wasn't sure of in the diagram. It appears that the cap is not parallel to the resistor, but it has been my understanding that you are putting this in a parallel way. Maybe not. Are you putting the cap between/ in line with the end of the resistor and the neg battery ?

That is the only thing I am not doing, but maybe I should be.??

thank you

jeanna

[Goat]

that looks like a fugi board keon1. IF YOU WANT 100% SUCCESS with  the FUGI  AA version only ! The way i FIX a FUGI board . is:::: tear the board out of the camera . i throw away everything including the film except the Board and battery .. VERY VERY SIMPLE MOD ..

STEP 1 : I KNOW THERE ARE VARIOUS WAYS TO DO THIS BUT THIS IS HOW I DO IT AND IT WORKS EVERY TIME  :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::REMOVE THE CAP and STROBE

STEP 2 : JUMP THE DIODE JUST SHORT IT DON'T CUT IT

STEP 3 : re place the 220 ohm resistor between the transformer and the little transistor with a 10 to 20 k pot

STEP 4: turn the board on the solder side . this is not really that hard to do with the leads that would go to the switch facing you and to the left .. look at where you soldered the Pot at . the one trace closest to you is the BASE trace . Follow it past the first leg of the transformer(has a dot on top of the transformer ) and stop at the end of the trace . right directly across from it is the other side of the transformer(three legs soldered ) the other spot for the other leg of the cap goes directly across to that first solder point of the three legs . if you follow that trace you will see it goes to the other place where you soldered the pot .

STEP 5 : hook up your load to where the HV CAP WAS !!!

thats it except adjust your current draw with an AMP meter in series with your battery to the lowest point you have usable light on you cfl /tube or what ever . this should be between 32-12 ma with  one battery 1.18 - 1.58  volts. thats it .NEVER RUN THIS BOARD WITH MORE THAN ONE BATTERY .ITS JUST NOT NEEDED you run it with either an  AA, AAA, watch battery (NOT LITHIUM 3volt ) C or D cell

these are the instructions to reduce the current I can  tell you how to engage the other transformer but  it is  complicated . BUT if you want to do it i guess the simplest way is to take the diode SHORT CONNECTION and run a little wire from that connection  to the leg of the neon closest to the little pulse transformer .. thats it .. this will raise the current draw slightly and is really not needed unless you want over 1000 volts with a bit of a current drain ..


IF YOU DO THIS JUST LIKE I SAID YOU WILL GET at least  10 to 12 hours of CFL light . and way more Juice left for 8 more hours to run at least 200 leds . the power reading was 220 volts when my cfl runs out of enuff voltage to fire it . Now i Know this works  because i am looking at two of them right now i put a recharged battery in them at 3 am this morning when i got up . they are still lit and its 2:05 pm
THE END

@ gadgetmall

Thanks for the ongoing progress you've made on the Fuji camera mod, you had me so inspired that I decided to take a chance on buying a 2 pack of cheap disposables for less than 8$  CDN at a local store (Giant Tiger for all you Canadian folks) and it turned out that the first camera I broke open was an IDENTICAL Fuji circuit that is on josepino.com!!!

Using the above quote from you earlier today I put this together so far.
If you can please correct the circuit using MS Paint if possible and if needed.

IMPORTANT: 

DO NOT DO ATTEMPT THIS PROJECT UNLESS YOU ARE ABLE TO SHORT OUT THE CAP SAFELY!!!

Start:  Remove plastic case off camera and and short out the cap with a well insulated screwdriver. 
Remove remainder of the plastic case off camera, seperate and remove the circuit board (PCB).

Step 1:  REMOVE THE CAP and STROBE
Step 2: JUMP THE DIODE JUST SHORT IT DON'T CUT IT
Step 3: Replace the 220 ohm resistor between the transformer and the little transistor with a 10 to 20 k pot.
Step 4: POT Placement
Step 5: Hook up your load to where the HV CAP WAS !!!

Optional:

Engage the other transformer but  it is  complicated (later).

The simplest way is to take the diode SHORT CONNECTION and run a little wire from that connection to the leg of the neon closest to the little pulse transformer .. thats it .. this will raise the current draw slightly and

is really not needed unless you want over 1000 volts with a bit of a current drain ..

IF YOU DO THIS JUST LIKE I SAID YOU WILL GET at least  10 to 12 hours of CFL light.

PS:  I'm still short a 10-20 K Ohm pot so I stopped at this point.

Regards,
Paul

[gadgetmall]

@Gadgetmall,

I need some help with this please.

I put the 50k pot in at the base and tested the amperage. It seems to be pretty normal, the higher the resistance the lower the amperage and the dimmer the light.

Conversely, the lower the resistance the higher the amperage and the brighter the light.

I have used the 100pF cap at this base resistor and it seems to make the amperage higher for the same resistance than without it.

Please review this.

One thing, I ignored what I wasn't sure of in the diagram. It appears that the cap is not parallel to the resistor, but it has been my understanding that you are putting this in a parallel way. Maybe not. Are you putting the cap between/ in line with the end of the resistor and the neg battery ?

That is the only thing I am not doing, but maybe I should be.??

thank you

jeanna

Hi Jeanna .  ok i take a tiny pot   the middle leg is the wiper . i put My cap 86pf across the entire resistor of the pot itself . then i use one  or the other end and the middle leg or the wiper . I keep a Small value resistor on the base at all times before the pot so i don't put a cap on the base at all . there is a resistor on the base then My cap /pot setup to the coil . Make since ?

[TheNOP]

Thanks for the quick replies.
Removing the LED and putting it in the pickup-circuit does not light it up, multimeter reading is 0.00 Volt
in that circuit. So it seems that these cores do not allow the magnetism to flow like in a real ferrite core.
Only explanation that i have until now. Gotta get hold of some real ferrite.
EDIT: MK1 !!! That is worth to check out what happens with a rectifier. Thanks for the hint will try it now.

EDIT2: Bridge Rectifier did not help, still 0.00 Volts, its gotta be the core.

The permeabilities or in this case AL factors i.e. ( inductance per 100 turns2 ) are:

TYPE            COLOR        AL                      Freq. Range

T50-26        Yel-Wh        320uH                  power freq. <--- 0 kHz. - 400 kHz i think
T50-3          Gray           175                      50 Khz to 500 Khz
T50-1          Blue            100                      500 Khz to 5 Mhz
T50-2          Red              57                      2 Mhz to 30 Mhz
T50-6          Yellow          47                       10 to 50 Mhz
T50-10        Black            32                        30 to 100 Mhz

There is no standard color code for toroids.
Each manufacturer does it his way.
The color codes for iron powder cores shown in the ARRL handbook are for cores made by Micrometals.

for those made by Amidon see this link:
http://www.uoguelph.ca/~antoon/circ/toroids.htm

to me, with a joule thief, it is almost impossible to saturate a pc power supply toroid.
the current and frequencies we seem to get are too low to do that.

if it work with the led at standard place i don't see why it stop working for a third secondary coil.
unless...
reading 0.00 Volts might still be because of your meter limits.
the hemf are polarised, try your diodes both way.

@gadgetmall

I have the fugi circuit the way I see it. What do you think about doing changes to it in order to build the circuit that everybody will use to replicate your cfl light?

Jesus

could you please get what lead are for witch coil ?

you will have to de-solder the transfo to read resistance between each pins.
if you could also mesure the wires size too, it would be great.
thanks




@IST
what are poor results for you ?

http://www.overunity.com/index.php?topic=6123.msg154955#msg154955
the max current the jt can give you will be divided by 4
the volts should be same for 2 secondaries and same for the 2 others secondaries.

if my test are right, there is a small volts diff from coil 1 between + and the base, compare to coils 2 between + and collector.
even if they are both same number of turns and same wire size.
i might be wrong tho.