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Overunity Machines Forum



Joule Thief

Started by Pirate88179, November 20, 2008, 03:07:58 AM

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0 Members and 132 Guests are viewing this topic.

innovation_station

you think it can be used to generate some big spikes !?!?!?

ist

looks like lots of turns on the square feroite core .....
To understand the action of the local condenser E in fig.2 let a single discharge be first considered. the discharge has 2 paths offered~~ one to the condenser E the other through the part L of the working circuit C. The part L  however  by virtue of its self induction  offers a strong opposition to such a sudden discharge  wile the condenser on the other hand offers no such opposition ......TESLA..

THE !STORE IS UP AND RUNNING ...  WE ARE TAKEING ORDERS ..  NOW ..   ISTEAM.CA   AND WE CAN AND WILL BUILD CUSTOM COILS ...  OF   LARGER  OUTPUT ...

CAN YOU SAY GOOD BYE TO YESTERDAY?!?!?!?!

TheNOP

Quote from: innovation_station on February 06, 2009, 08:48:57 PM
you think it can be used to generate some big spikes !?!?!?

ist

looks like lots of turns on the square feroite core .....
if only there were space to fit a few primary turn...
those who will try will know.  :)

maybe if i take out the wrapping plastic i could probably add a primary on top of it.

gadgetmall

Quote from: Pirate88179 on February 06, 2009, 07:35:58 PM
Umm, if you go way back and take a look at my photos on how I have always used the modified Fuji circuit, the wiring includes the trigger coil.  It always has the way I have it hooked up.  I originally did that just to make the connection to the board stronger (mechanically) but it turned out to be a happy accident.

Bill         ***EDIT***  I do not mean to imply that I am getting anywhere near the 5,000 volts you describe, it is actually closer to 600 which is a lot higher than Josepino was reporting so, I figure the difference must be in the wiring involving the trigger coil, as this is the main difference.  It would be nice to fully utilize that little coil.  Do you think it would stand up to continuous duty as it was designed for very brief, occasional pulses?  I guess we could give one the smoke test.


I have hooked it up and got over 1000 volts . its just one wire jumped from the shorted diode to the single post on the trigger ,solder side .that trace also goes to the trigger switch which don't need to be shorted . you see two on the same foil then one . thats the one to engage it . Its on My 45 watt cfl .. It works for me but the current draw is higher  and i only get 11 hours of light  :) 12.5 on the 15 watt  ::)




@jEANNA  .
  about the cheap leds the best time to get those is right after Christmas . close outs .. the bright leds are plug in just like regular leds . you just bend the two little ends and the led comes right off like a normal led with leads . there is also Spares in every string so i got three EXTRA icicle plugin in replacement light so i didn't have to cut anything on my Christmas light . The other little battery operated strings you have to cut the little wires if you want green leads .  lights and just used the bulb base with the icicle's
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resonanceman

Quote from: electricme on February 05, 2009, 07:09:27 PM

got to think up a way to keep the peanut butter on a trap without the mouse gobbling up all the PB.
Would a sponge do?







Jim

A  way to  keep  the peanut butter  on the  trap  might  be  to drill  small holes in the  trip  plate and fill the holes with peanut butter .....the oil in the peanut  butter will soak into the wood  and  the scent will last a long time .

An easier  way  ......and  one that doesn't  leave  your house smelling like peanut butter  is to use  a small piece of  bone .......I usually  cut the  end off a chicken  leg bone ......then use a   wire tie  to  fasten it to  the trip plate .........Mice love to chew on things and  REQUIRE  calcium .....  the bone  will  be irresistible .......and can  be used  over and over .   


gary



nievesoliveras

Quote from: jeanna on February 06, 2009, 05:43:49 PM
Hi everyone,

@MK1 I really do agree with you about the mag thing you have found. I think it is right up this same alley.
===
I have some results

Thinking about fuji ckt again, I am curious about the 3 coils being different number of turns. So, I wound a toroid with the same bifilar wires for 5 turns, then continued with only one of those wires til it was turned a total of 12 times. Then I added 120 turns for a secondary.

The circuit is the basic one. 2N3904, 1Kr Resistor at base  4 LEDs in parallel arrangement running off the secondary.

The regular results of this arrangement are:
without the lights it draws 21.8mA
with the lights it draws     24.6mA
   This is new, Once before, when adding lights in parallel, the amps actually dropped.

The rectified voltage in 2 ways with the circuit like this is
42rectified volts
41.1 rectified volts

That is pretty high, I think.

Then,
At the base I added a second resistor 4.7Kr and a cap of different amounts and looked at these results.

First, with the 4.7k resistor added the amps draw became 8.3mA
I tried all the same caps as yesterday and maybe there is a sweet spot. But without all that fiddling, the caps all made the amp draw increase to around 10.3mA

Then I began to unwind the extra winds of that primary bifilar from 12 down to 5 which matches the other wire and so is the usual even bifilar with 5+5 winds.

(the 100pF cap is still || with the 4.7r resistor below the base resistor.)
like so:
5+11=8.7mA
5+10=8.3mA
5+9=7.9mA
5+8=7.5mA
5+7=5.8mA

I suggest you wind a toroid with 3+5 and see if the same patron prevails. Also it coud be 7+9.
It seems that two less orr two more makes the best difference.

Quote
5+5=6.0mA
5+5=6.1mA

So, the amps draw goes down as the number of turns goes to 5+7 then rises again.  :o

The rectified voltage with the 5+5 turns has also dropped and is now 
21.4volts rectified and
22.3 volts rectified

So, there you are. Any ideas?

jeanna


Jesus