Joule Thief

[electricme]

@Timmy
Nice find about the FreeCycle, thats a bonza find, well done.

@Bill,
My 2 green torids, ha ha, I wasn't sending up anyone in particular lol, but I got a good laugh out of it also.

@all
I thought I might repost a web site I have seen, it has free calculaters for those into circuits, anyway its below.
http://www.tech-systems-labs.com/freesoftware.htm
Might be something here that the bofins might like to have.

Got to get back to reading up the threads.

General Jim

[electricme]

@all
My 2N2222 transistor on my JT became very hot all of a suddon,  :oI  I added a 1.2v D NiMH cell in parallel with the 1.2v AA NiMH cell

My current consumption has risen, I also added a small choke torrid in series with the output from my Bridge diode, the output from this I fed into a big homemade coil, this I feed into my batteries.

So to fix the overheating, I glued a medicine cup onto the plywood base, half filled it with light oil......and plonked the JT transistor in to this oil, now its running better. (remember well back I made the suggestion of heatsinking a transistor, it works).

My multimeter accross the coil output, cannot measure the output on the third battery I am trying to recharge., thought I had broken another multimeter.

I back feed from the BIG 2nd battery back to the torid, the 1st AA 1.2v cell is reading 1.44v.....is it charging??

we will see.

I changed the Joul Thief's white LED to a RED led also.....tried shorting the LED out before, but the circuit stopped, so the LED is needed in this circuit to operate.

I have  white LED at the Bridge diode also, if I take it out the high pulses stop, so this has to be included as well.

General Jim

Ps the AA cell voltage has risen to 1.50v ... this is a 1.2volt NiMH cell

Arrrr Ha found the culprit, I got a low 12v battery in my multimeter.

0474 = Oil Heat Sink with Tr1 a 2N2222 plonked in it upsidedown.
            notice the RED LED.
0475 = Current untidy setup in full, 3rd big cell on right is not hooked up, only the other 2 big cells
0476 = Big BLUE coil is the one I wound, about 400 turns or thereabouts (I 4 got), the small choke I insurted this between the bridge and the Coil, the choke makes and breaks the circuit for me. causing the waveform on next photo.
0477 = current waveform

A supriseing thing occurs with my torrid, if I contact any of the secondaries with a + positive, the waveform alters, and I can get many different waveforms, depending where I put the + pos, if I remove the + contact, the wave form still stays.

Sometimes if I remove the batteries, this thing still keeps going.

[gadgetmall]

@all
My 2N2222 transistor on my JT became very hot all of a suddon,  :oI  I added a 1.2v D NiMH cell in parallel with the 1.2v AA NiMH cell

My current consumption has risen, I also added a small choke torrid in series with the output from my Bridge diode, the output from this I fed into a big homemade coil, this I feed into my batteries.

So to fix the overheating, I glued a medicine cup onto the plywood base, half filled it with light oil......and plonked the JT transistor in to this oil, now its running better. (remember well back I made the suggestion of heatsinking a transistor, it works).

My multimeter accross the coil output, cannot measure the output on the third battery I am trying to recharge., thought I had broken another multimeter.

I back feed from the BIG 2nd battery back to the torid, the 1st AA 1.2v cell is reading 1.44v.....is it charging??

we will see.

I changed the Joul Thief's white LED to a RED led also.....tried shorting the LED out before, but the circuit stopped, so the LED is needed in this circuit to operate.

I have  white LED at the Bridge diode also, if I take it out the high pulses stop, so this has to be included as well.

General Jim

Ps the AA cell voltage has risen to 1.50v ... this is a 1.2volt NiMH cell

Arrrr Ha found the culprit, I got a low 12v battery in my multimeter.

0474 = Oil Heat Sink with Tr1 a 2N2222 plonked in it upsidedown.
            notice the RED LED.
0475 = Current untidy setup in full, 3rd big cell on right is not hooked up, only the other 2 big cells
0476 = Big BLUE coil is the one I wound, about 400 turns or thereabouts (I 4 got), the small choke I insurted this between the bridge and the Coil, the choke makes and breaks the circuit for me. causing the waveform on next photo.
0477 = current waveform

A supriseing thing occurs with my torrid, if I contact any of the secondaries with a + positive, the waveform alters, and I can get many different waveforms, depending where I put the + pos, if I remove the + contact, the wave form still stays.

Sometimes if I remove the batteries, this thing still keeps going.

hey there electricme ..
you don't have enuff resistance on you base from the look of the lonely resistor there . I would put at least a 10k pot on her in series with it . It's overdrive thats producing heat . BTW .Still no Letter .I guess the Whale Sunk But Mine will be By Stork
)
Al 

[Mk1]

Can anyone tell me what kind of motor he is using in the video?

The small one is a cd player motor, and the grey one is from the tape deck.

[electricme]

@Goat,
I went and took a look at Bob Perrotts site, he has almost identical LED JT crts there, spent a lot of time there, stilll havent got to the end of the posts lol
Thanks for pointing me there Paul.

@Slayer007,
Bridge diodes are the way to go, except if you want to direct some of the DC to a particular circuit component or part, or block it from a component etc etc.

Example, to rectify the AC coming out of the secondary of a transformer, use a Bridge Rectifier, (has 4 diodes in it), this alters the AC to DC, but it will have ripples in the DC component, so we use elytrolitics and ceramics to filterout these things.

There are different diode configurations, which produce different outputs, just stick with the old bridge and you should be OK.

General Jim