Joule Thief

[Koen1]

@koen1

I did have a reply for you on the tesla pat

oops, sorry for overlooking it

, i made a 2 jt to exact coil specs , it work great, and i have learned a lot for it.

Great stuff, I still need to wind mine. Did you feed the input signal from the transistor to the
2 input coil sections at 180 or 90?
Or did you use the two input coil sections as we have been doing in the classic JT?
(that is, battery feed to transistor to primary, switching of transistor done via secondary,
no two seperate signals, no 180 or 90 degree offset)

And for the diode , you just need to replace the base resistor , with it , i have used zeners , swithching diodes and even a led , they all worked. My 3 volt zener is giving me the same output has a well tuned resistor for the base. the real question is is it lowering the consumption of the jt.

Thanks, that is very usefull info. So indeed we can use all kinds of diodes insted of the transistor.
And you are correct in that the question is not really if we can use them as such, but whether or not this increases the JTs energy efficiency.

I have a datalogger somewhere around here, and when I finish the toroids I'm trying to wind I plan to hook the circuit up as a battery
charger using a few caps and diodes and then stick it on the logger for a prolonged test run. I plan to start with one full rechargeable
AA and two empties and see what happens. I am not sure whether or not I should try to combine it with LEDs to get a sort of
JT powered battery charger flashlight, or if I should rather do away with the LEDs and use diodes that don't consume any energy instead.
Suggestions are always welcome!

Regards,
Koen

[Koen1]

What difference would it make whether or not the resistor existed up front in behind, ..would the net effects across the path be the same regardless?

I'd say so yeah but most JT circuits I see on the web are all identical and have them behind...

I think I fried my transistor btw - source voltage perhaps being too high, but I don't know. It's a 2N2222 - these are the only ones I've been using.

Now, about the diode - usually there's a voltage drop across diodes.  I have a picture of my using a diode AS a resistor in the circuit, but i had to incorporate a manual resistance switch to activate it - this is problematic though, because it was a red LED, and those are usually low voltage, so...

Hmmm yes I see what you're saying. And the voltage drop is also something I wondered about... If the goal is to light the LED then it's
of little importance but then that's not the best spot for the LED either, and if it's for switching purposes then do we really want a voltage drop eh?

Have you though about using a Schottky diode then a resistor up front then the current winding.  or some variation thereof?

Yes, thought about it but have not tried yet. Can't find a good Schottky around here although I'm sure I have a few hidden away somewhere...

Also, I've made so many different circuits with this, and have come to the conclusion that I don't know what's going on - I'll just leave it at that, especially after seeing that post about ignition coils.

LOL well at least that is very honest and clear. I think I understand what is going on but I have trouble explaining it.
Besides, depending on how exactly the coils are wound and pulsed there are so many possible variations, and while they mostly do the same
thing(s), some variations might be extremely more efficient than others.

Thanks for the reply!

Regards,
Koen

[Koen1]

@Jeanna: Welcome Back!
Did you enjoy your outing?

@Pirate: Great idea, that seperate thread for schematics! Thanks a huge lot!
I think you're right on the posting order, you can't really stick the newer
schematics in front of the older posts, so posting them in chronological
order would probably be best. And it is just as clear, really.

[innovation_station]

hears a GREAT IDEA.......

stop doing it with miliamps

try amps!!! ....................

ist!!

[innovation_station]

now imagine my coil that currently puts out 110vdc...... or 110vac ....    hummmmmm....

it requires 1 volt to operate......   hummmmm    it returns 110v hummmmm

now

WHAT WILL BE IF?   

I USED 1 VOLT AT 1 AMP WICH EQUALS 1 WATT AS A SUPPLY ...   

WHAT WILL THE RETURN BE !?!?!?!?!?!?!?!.......



IST!!

just incase you wanted it in 0's n1's      lol         it would read 110 110 1 110 111