Joule Thief

[Pirate88179]

Great news about the sale!  Well, as I said before, when running 100 for a brief second, they were "too" bright.  So with 200, or 300, I think we are safe.  I have been running mine (300) for a while with no problems.  And, what you said is what amazes me about all of this.  You ( or me) can't even light 1 of these Christmas LEDs with an AA battery, yet we can now light 300. (maybe more)  I am going for 400!!!

Thanks for telling me about Krogers.  You can't buy 2 leds at Radio Shack for that price.

300 leds @ 3 volts ea. is 900 volts and I have been told that we are getting close to 1,000 volts counting both sides of the alternating current.  Plus there is the frequency factor that I am not sure what LEDs do with that.....if they like that or not....so far....seems they do.

Bill

[xee2]

@ jeanna

If the neon is blinking you are making at least 90 volts and the little traces each side of hole are shorted together correctly. You should be getting over 300 volts DC at the leads that were connected to large cap. If not then something is wrong. The tube may not work with DC, I have not tested this (but I think it should). Try measuring the voltage across the leads the were going to large cap (without the tube connected).

[jeanna]

  Why did you clip to the - battery terminal?  Unless you are not trying to replicate what I have.  I know some have suggested that but...well, you saw my diagrams.


Bill

My soldering iron was plopping large glops of solder and what was left for me to connect were those 2 spots underneath that connect the transformer and cap? I think? I wasn't sure about it, However, I WAS sure I'd ruin it with a blop of solder. In fact I went for it once and got a large mist of white powder all over the board. So, that is when I decided I had to change the tip.

While looking for the original description of what you did, I came across jesus' statement to hook it up between cap leads and close the trigger and remove the resistor. I didn't do all those things, but the neon started to flash.

I think I am close. The trigger leads spark when I touch them.

jeanna

[Pirate88179]

@ Jeanna:

Ah, I see. (about the soldering iron)  Yes, this is pretty tricky soldering even when the equipment is working properly, those paths are close together and it would not take much solder to bridge two or three of them.  On my circuit, the trigger coil is not in play at all so I am not sure what is going on there.  If you are going to try to run it on just the dc supply to the cap, I can't be of any help with this.  I have not tried it nor do I know why/if it will work.  The other guys here will know so, follow what they say.

I have a very fine tip on my iron and it was still hard to "get it right" on this board.  So, I understand what you are up against.  Just be careful, that little board is juiced up in places I had no idea even had juice.  I am now on my 11th jolt, ha ha.  Maybe I will learn one day.

Bill        ***EDIT***  BTW, I believe Jesus's suggestion was for the Kodak boards as I don't believe he has found a Fuji there yet.

[jeanna]

@ jeanna

If the neon is blinking you are making at least 90 volts and the little traces each side of hole are shorted together correctly. You should be getting over 300 volts DC at the leads that were connected to large cap. If not then something is wrong. The tube may not work with DC, I have not tested this (but I think it should). Try measuring the voltage across the leads the were going to large cap (without the tube connected).

240volts

jeanna