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Overunity Machines Forum



Joule Thief

Started by Pirate88179, November 20, 2008, 03:07:58 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 46 Guests are viewing this topic.

jeanna

Quote from: Pirate88179 on June 03, 2009, 12:13:54 AM
... I am surprised that this almost empty capacitor is too much?Please explain, thanks,jeanna"
...
The reason I got this large cap is to allow me to get the amps up so I can run things no one thought possible from the EB.  I will let the current trickle in during the day and use it at night.
One thought for you.  My heating and AC unit takes only 15 amps (to start) and i will have 650 amps to play with for a while so, to me it is theoretically possible to run this unit from the EB even if only for a little while. ...

Bill
Nice,
I wasn't questioning why you wanted it, I was wondering why you suddenly thought it was too much. Thanks for the answer.


hmm
I have this cool vestfrost refridgerator from Denmark. It is  really really efficient. It has 2 compressors. The sales ad warned that even though it takes very low energy it takes 38,000 volts at times to start it up.

Well, after it was living with me, I realized those 38,000 volts were coming from a cap-pop to start up the compressors.

Sooo, yes, you probably can use that big cap to get things going. I see,

thanks,

jeanna

electricme

@Jesus,
Thankyou very much for these kind words, Jesus, they mean a lot to me, and I'm sure they do to Bill also.

@Bill, I just read your PM, now I had better go and take a look ha ha.

Quote from: nievesoliveras on June 02, 2009, 11:46:27 PM
@Pirate and @electricme

Congratulations for running a motor from an EB!!

Jesus

EDIT ***
I have just taken a look see at Bills video, it is as Bill has mentioned and done.
Thank you Bill for giving credit where it is due, thank you for mentioning me in your video.
 
However I just want to make this clear to all the folks who read this post that it is Pirate who has successfully run his Bedini/Jonhnydavro on his video post today, and it was Bill (Pirate88179) who gave me credit for being the first to run a tiny electric motor off my earth battery via a 55Farad 2.5v super cap.   

Thankyou Bill.

jim
People who succeed with the impossible are mocked by those who say it cannot be done.

electricme

@Altrez,
I suddenly got it, the penny dropped.
 
Quote from: altrez on June 02, 2009, 09:53:00 PM
Ok cool :) I have noticed something today. It is very odd and I must send you the coil notes. My LLA1 is also charging the source battery however it cant really charge it because its got a constant draw so it is basically hovering at the same mVs. It must be in the toroid winding what else  could explain it?

-Altrez

OK, this is what is going on, the reason why the JT can charge the single battery, and it is so simple.

The fully charged 1.5v cell when connected is just like a starter motor, it cranks up the Joule Thief, then the Joule Thief begins to run, when it is fine tuned, the Joule Thief, becomes like a Battery (but physically it isn't, only energy wise), it takes the place of the 1st battery, because it has a higher energy output, so the real battery becomes the recharge battery to soak up the overflow of energy from the Joule Thief.

If the Joule Thief cannot achieve more voltage and current, that the Battery is putting into it, then this will not occur, it willl just be a standard Joule Thief.

To see if your Joule Thief can be a OU device, place a capacitor of about 10uf at 6.3v DC accross the 1.5v Battery, start the Joule Thief, then remove the Battery, if the Joule Thief continues to run, without the Battery, you can then say it is a successful test.
 
Did that make sense? this is why extra LEDs can be made to light at the same time.

@all,
I have just wound 4 new toroids, they are about 7/8" diameter, with a 9/16" hole and 3/16" thick.
I put 85 turns of fine wire on the primaries and 24 turns of heavy wire on the secondaries.

What I want to do is connect all the primaries in series (Just like my other 7 series setup toroids)
and solder 4 bridge rectifiers to all the 4 outputs, everything the same this time, except the toroids are connected back to front to my previous 7 toroid set up.

jim
People who succeed with the impossible are mocked by those who say it cannot be done.

Pirate88179

@ Jim:

Thank you.  I swear, if you had one of these big supercaps, there is no telling what you could run down there.  I believe credit should always be given where it is due.  Anything I have been able to accomplish here is only due to the help and ideas of others.  Soon, hopefully, I will come up with something totally original but even then, it will be because of what I have been able to learn here.

Now, on to the EB-Monstercap-JT experiments.

Bill
See the Joule thief Circuit Diagrams, etc. topic here:
http://www.overunity.com/index.php?topic=6942.0;topicseen

altrez

Quote from: electricme on June 03, 2009, 03:10:40 AM
@Altrez,
I suddenly got it, the penny dropped.
 
OK, this is what is going on, the reason why the JT can charge the single battery, and it is so simple.

The fully charged 1.5v cell when connected is just like a starter motor, it cranks up the Joule Thief, then the Joule Thief begins to run, when it is fine tuned, the Joule Thief, becomes like a Battery (but physically it isn't, only energy wise), it takes the place of the 1st battery, because it has a higher energy output, so the real battery becomes the recharge battery to soak up the overflow of energy from the Joule Thief.

If the Joule Thief cannot achieve more voltage and current, that the Battery is putting into it, then this will not occur, it willl just be a standard Joule Thief.

To see if your Joule Thief can be a OU device, place a capacitor of about 10uf at 6.3v DC accross the 1.5v Battery, start the Joule Thief, then remove the Battery, if the Joule Thief continues to run, without the Battery, you can then say it is a successful test.
 
Did that make sense? this is why extra LEDs can be made to light at the same time.


jim

Jim,

I normally always have a cap in that spot already its just really small so I did as you asked. And well it sorta worked! This is how it went.

With the Cap in place I pulled the main battery I was still producing .003 mV with out the battery! With the battery however its over 200mV. The Cap would produce .002 to .004 recdified DC voltage.

The way I test is to attach a meter to one of the Bridge rectifiers. And watch the voltage. Its a heck of a lot lower with the cap but it is a constant with the same sort of voltage spikes.

I am not sure if this is making any sense but like I said it sorta works. There is a lot of EMF floating around here in my kitchen so it is more then likely that the cap is simply picking that up. And with out REAL voltage being produced from the cap 2 volts or more. This test can only be labeled as inconclusive.

I did find out however that if I leave the big cap hooked up with the main battery and a blocking diode It will charge the cap up to the spiked voltage I am seeing on my setup. And that I find very cool.

So this is what I did next. I put the big cap back in place with battery. And let it catch the spikes. It charged up to over 550mV. I took the cap out and tested again and it was true the cap was charged to 550mv.

So why does that excite me you might ask? Well that proves to me at least that the main battery is catching an extra charge from the "back EMF???" toroid somehow. 

-Altrez