Joule Thief

[jeanna]

... but it is the  pulsed DC component now at high frequency.

You could place a BRIDGE rectifier accross the Top and Middle outs AND across the Middle and Lower outputs, so giving a full rectified DC at Hi Hz.


more to come on this topic

Nice Jim,

This could go somewhere as a beginning generator for big ac power. (well, big in a small sense.)

jeanna

[electricme]

@all,
Introducing the SOP4 Toroid JT.


OK you all have heard of single Phase, Double Phase, and 3 Phase, Hear is my 4 Phase
Special Out Put Toroid 4 which I will call it SOP4 for short.

I wound this just a couple of days ago.
It consists of a standard JT exciter coil/s and the the primary output coils are like this.
I have not connected it to any other component as yet.

I cut 4 wire strands 3 meters long, (3 yards approx), then wound the 1st output coil on the JT.
Then after sore fingers, I put the other 3 wire strands in a batt powered drill and zoomed them up, into a single one, (should have done this with the other one).

Then I wound the zoomed coil on top of the 1st coil.

This makes the 4 seperate coils as the output coils.

Next I plan to connect all of one of the 4 ends together, similar to a "star" winding configuration.
BTW, there willl be another source of energy at the combination point, but it will be less than half of the other ends, it is "floating" energy.


The other "free ends" will be connected to my "Bridged Array" which consists of 8 diodes.

jim

[resonanceman]

@Jeanna,

Yes, this was my research secondary, I made this to be placed on any JT so I could have a selectable voltage range to play with.
The switch actually fell apart during assembly, it seems this type of multy pin switch can be made to have a variety of different poles, eg 1 pole 2 pole 3 pole 4 pole.

I have it configured as a 1 pole in 12 out.

By soldering all the tap points to each out/in in turn, when I select any of the 12 positions, I get just the voltage out of the toroid I need.

There is only 2 separate wound coils in this one.

The 1st coil takes its power from any JT secondary output.
The second coil is the one which has the selectable tap points.
*************************

Another way to do this is to wind a single large coil, the "tap" coil, directly on to a joule thief itself, then it would be the Primary output coil, but it would have several an adjustable outlets which you can control by a rotrary switch.

You could really now have more control of the energy coming out of the Joule Thief itself, (no more blown LEDs) as you could select the output energy to everything connected to the JT.

In the case of MK1s 2 secondaries, setup, I would just wind them in the same manner, going up and down each side, with tap points in between, but I would only have the tap points on the downward leg, not the upward leg. (unless you find you need more control of the outputs).

This raises the possibility of having a "duel" or "double controlable output, so you would need a duel gang switch, and I have seen them in the various kits and electronic suppliers.

see photo (which I have to make) 

jim

One ant seems to have been on "walk-a-bout"

Jim 

that looks like  a good idea .,,,,, but kind of hard to make

I   just  stuck the  wires though holes in the side of the spool and  used hot  glue to add a little extre wire to make them stronger .
I  use alligator  clips  for the connections .



I  am wondering if something like that could be used for turning  a coil ?

gary

[Mk1]

@all

[gadgetmall]

Gadgetmall,

I just made a little breadboard jt with one of those germanium transistors.
It lights beautifully down to 1v, but my eb is 0.835 today.

I put a supercap like the one Bill used last year to light his led directly from the eb, but this didn't work. I added a diode which I put in wrong the first time then fixed, and it didn't work either.

What is it you add to a basic joule thief that you do so normally and I don't do that will make this work?

More caps? base caps of some size... tiny or big?
extremely low value resistor?

Do you use white led?

etc?

thanks

jeanna

Jeanna i wind a big primary bifilar ranging from 25 turns to 50 depending on the toroid and then i use high resistance like 10 k on the base then i try different caps across the resistor . after i see the light get brighter i replace the resistance with one resistor and a pot in series to equal the resistance i found that worked . and i do my Tank circuit with the cap on the wiper of the pot and either end of the pot. Sometimes it works good on the unused end of the pot . sometime the cap works good on the other end  of the pot. after i get the circuit lighting a couple of WHITE leds i add a secondary . One my last unit i wound 90 turns 3/4 around for the secondary . i put a ceramic cap and diode on that in series . I take power off the secondary and i also take power off the primary Jt . I have found that when i  do that the total current draw drops 80% !! . If you need any help let me know . I have two i made this week and they are running on 300 millivolts and 2 millamps with the 04 transistor i sent you . 04 on the end of the number .Another little trick i do is put a diode and electro cap on the C E . This reduces the total current draw once the cap charges up . i run one led off there and the 25 off the secondary . the glow in the third picture is the EC led . It stays lit for about 2 minutes after i remove power . this is because of the electro cap on that junction .on this one i am using 4 capacitors 2 pots a resistor ,transistor ,33 turns bifilar part of it wound ontop and inbetween  the 90 turn secondary . Its wound different in that the collector wire is inbetween the secondary where as the base is in a bunble at the bottom . I don't even thing i could draw a schematic of it tonight . dead tired again .

yall have Good Electric Dreams .
Gadget .
over and out


Gadget