Joule Thief

[jeanna]

Once I  get a scope  I will have a practical way to watch the frequency among other things .

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
...
I   I reversed  the  wires going  to the E and the base .
I had made the  mag wire   shorter  for lower  resistance for  the base .

Now  I  have  conected  the  iron  ( higher resistance ) wire to the base and  it is like a  different  toroid .
.......but the  LEDs are at least twice as bright ......

Yes, I think getting a scope is great.
BTW, My HPS10 is a great option too. I got it for $189 at allelectronics. It uses 5 NiMH batteries.
BUT
They make another model which not only has a backlight- so you can see it-
It has a scsi connector so you can put it into your pc.
AND it is called HPS40 because the sample rate is 40Mhz, where mine is 10Mhz.
It will cost more than mine, unless I can find that link xee provided.
I asked him about neons and the link he gave me had this scope even cheaper than allelectronics.
I kind of kicked myself when I saw it.
But you can get it.
If you get a wallwart you can recharge the batteries and use it plugged in as well.

~~~~~
Now, reversing the wires to add resistance to the base side is brilliant.

I am thinking these days that the power is there with the first set of pulses.
It is our job to find and use the right components to collect this power into our machines.
I think your low output voltage and brighter leds is an indicator for you that there is more.
I betcha the frequency went up which would be why the lights got brighter. If so, that would mean that you could lower the frequency and 'extract' some more volts for the lights.

This is my method, anyway... or my madness? 

jeanna

[jeanna]

Gary and everybody,
I just added something to the circuit next door, but I also just put together another piece from the effects we were talking about yesterday.

If you look at the first post on that thread, I posted a pic of tesla's way of drawing his ac producing circuits. In every one of them there is a place where there is one or 2 sometimes 3 discharge gaps.

I have been thinking that I have NOT been doing his circuit yet because (ignoring the lack of spark gaps) I have not been adding inductors to the end and making another level through that transformer effect.

BUT I see that since the flyback/BEMF is making a spike which is essentially the same thing as the spark gap, I am in fact making a copy of his circuits.

I am stoked. This is really cool.

Yesterday I added a toroid inductor which I tanked with a 1uF cap. I have left it there because for once it is not making the lights go dimmer, but the fact is that it does nothing. The inductor works without it. This is probably the reason... wow, I am just making the substitute for the d..d  discharges in Tesla's drawings!!

,

jeanna

[resonanceman]

Yes, I think getting a scope is great.
BTW, My HPS10 is a great option too. I got it for $189 at allelectronics. It uses 5 NiMH batteries.
BUT
They make another model which not only has a backlight- so you can see it-
It has a scsi connector so you can put it into your pc.
AND it is called HPS40 because the sample rate is 40Mhz, where mine is 10Mhz.
It will cost more than mine, unless I can find that link xee provided.
I asked him about neons and the link he gave me had this scope even cheaper than allelectronics.
I kind of kicked myself when I saw it.
But you can get it.
If you get a wallwart you can recharge the batteries and use it plugged in as well.

~~~~~
Now, reversing the wires to add resistance to the base side is brilliant.

I am thinking these days that the power is there with the first set of pulses.
It is our job to find and use the right components to collect this power into our machines.
I think your low output voltage and brighter leds is an indicator for you that there is more.
I betcha the frequency went up which would be why the lights got brighter. If so, that would mean that you could lower the frequency and 'extract' some more volts for the lights.

This is my method, anyway... or my madness? 

jeanna

Jeanna

Here is  a scope that I really like .
It costs  about twice  what I am willing to pay right now .
It  is  a new design  from  one of the largest  scope manufactures in china.

http://www.owon.com.cn/eng/hds-nSeries.asp
The 20 MHz version is  selling for around 600
The 60 MHz  is selling for  around 700


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

I am  thinking of making a copy of the  last  coil that I made ......
Last time the  iron wire was twice as long as the copper.
This time  the  copper  will  be longer .
The  lengths of wire will stay the same.



Actually  I thought of  switching  the wires because  I remembered something about  you  not being able to  get  the 3055 going ....... you  switched the wires and it worked .


gary

[freepow]

 :)Hello everyone, I just bought a 10mhz scope, I measured my 1.3v AA and the scope says its 1/2 that, and when measuring my JT output...it says its 10 V.  Yet my multimeter says the battery is 1.3v and my JT output is 20 V.
So no matter what Volt/Div-control i set this to, it still shows only  1/2 of the true volts,
the scope's - volt var calibration is set to the lowest setting, are you suppose to set this control upwards to set voltage
Or is this just a faulty machine

[Pirate88179]

Here is my 2 cents.  Did you calibrate your scope per the instructions first?  On my scope, there is a calibration port where you stick the probe and set the adjustment controls to zero everything out.  I also had to adjust the capacitance of my probes as well.  Your manual should tell you how to do all of this.  Unless yours is a digital scope, mine is analog, (CRO) you then read the amounts from the scales on the screen depending upon your settings.

I am no expert with my scope but this is what I had to do with mine.

Bill