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Overunity Machines Forum



Joule Thief

Started by Pirate88179, November 20, 2008, 03:07:58 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 288 Guests are viewing this topic.

jeanna

Hi everyone,

I guess my only problem is that I must have made enormous square holes in the foil of my 2 free breadboards using all those leds. So, now, the wires which are slightly smaller and round (therefore much less contact area) are giving me flaky results in my tests.

So, this morning I made the first half of a MK2 and this afternoon I completed it.
Each side has 2 wires going up 13 turns and going down 12 turns for a total of 4 wires of 25 turns each.

After fiddling etc with those aforementioned breadboard wires etc. I have been able to measure between 18V and 21V rectified on the 4 secondaries

and that totals around 80Volts. all coming from a 1.24v battery.

yeay wow yeay wow!!

thank you,

jeanna

@ist, of course it isn't new. Just new to anybody who hasn't tried it yet.  ;)

@Pirate88179
Hi Bill. I'm glad to hear you are still here.
Is it warming up yet in BG KY? You still have the best shot for lighting up your street with some earth battery fed led christmas lights. Won't your apartment manager love you? HA!

nievesoliveras

Quote from: Pirate88179 on March 21, 2009, 07:02:16 PM
Jeanna is correct on the DMM's from Allelectronics.  I bought 2 of them 2 $8.00 each and I was impressed on how good they work.  (I am using them on my Bedini for input and output meters)

@ Jeanna:

Way to go!  yes, Mark does have some great designs and I hope all of us can replicate them.  It is fun when it works isn't it?  I love this stuff!

@ MK1:

Thank you for your contributions here and your designs.  More folks than you know are replicating these and are enjoying the output.  Please keep up your good work.

@ All:

Another slightly off-topic video I made today after work.  Yes, it is still just the Bedini motor but...this thing has been running for a couple of days and just keeps going.  Soon I will tie it all into what we are doing here.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2W0kOQAkYDc


I have a lot of reading to catch up on as well as continue my quest to update our diagrams topic.  I have been so tied up lately but...I will do it I promise.

Bill

Do not get misled for a long duration of a bedini motor with a 12v battery as source.
If you take a look to the pictures, you will see that the source is discharging very slowly.

You need to readjust the potentiometers in order to find a spot where the source voltage goes up.
If you cant find that spot. I give you an official welcome to the club. There are thousands of experimenters including me that have not been able to make the source battery to charge.

I have been able to only get the battery to not discharge, but to be undecided if going  up or down. The voltage goes down a point and then goes up a point.

But never have been able to make it charge. The source battery I mean.

Jesus

Edit:

Another important thing is that if you do not want your charging battery to become a ghost charged battery (damaged) do not let it charging if it is not discharged.

Get the information on how to make a regulator with a zener diode and a light bulb or LED, in order to get the light to spend the overcharge voltage when the battery is completely charged.

Remember I appreciate your friendship.

Jesus

resonanceman

Quote from: jeanna on March 21, 2009, 05:08:22 PM


I did get 10.8v and 10.6 v rectified from the 2 secondaries I wound. This feels cool. The light got terribly bright with each one. Not orange, but blazing bright when I turned the base resistor down and the only resistor is one that measures 799ohm.



Jeanna 

You light all those LEDs with  just 10V ?

My LEDs have not arrived  yet so I did not  try to see how many I could light ....I  didn;t want to risk  burning out  any of the few I have .

My last  toroid I got  if I remember right  37V with the   original  JT Led in place .    48V with it removed .       both  of those  readings were  rectified  DC

I am  winding  another  toroid ......hoping for  150 V or more .


gary

jadaro2600

@Pirate,

I don't know if you are attempting feedback to source or not, but there's an idea. ...you could try running the device from one of those small 12V batteries,  Duracell makes them, they're for garage door openers - unfortunately they're not for recharging.  I think they have model number 21/23...this could be used to power the device, while it charges the other?


@IST,  ...nothing new means not infringing any patents. :)  this is especially true when what Tesla wrote about was published back in the late 1800's early 1900's.


@jonnydavro,

Interesting phenomenon you've witnessed - this essentially means it's using less with a pickup coil, this could have something to do with the fact that when the light isn't lit, there's more impedance from circuit flows - in other words, without a load, the device is essentially short circuited.


@resonanceman, and all,

I've gotten the basic Joule Thief to work with many inductors, all successfully.  I got the voltage readings in upwards of 160 volts across a capacitor...

@gadgetmall,  thanks for the information about the chipped LED's.

@jeanna,

I'll have to try an mk1 or 2, I may try a deviation - I've got about 15 toroids now.


@all,  has anyone attempted winding ferrite bars instead? ...toroids are a pain to wind.
Also, isn't the idea of having a pickup coil to capture voltages that would normally be soaked up by the collector - i mean, placing the pickup coil between the two primaries, or in some equivalent manner be like buffering the flux collapse?

resonanceman

Quote from: resonanceman on March 21, 2009, 08:34:53 PM
Jeanna 

You light all those LEDs with  just 10V ?

My LEDs have not arrived  yet so I did not  try to see how many I could light ....I  didn;t want to risk  burning out  any of the few I have .

My last  toroid I got  if I remember right  37V with the   original  JT Led in place .    48V with it removed .       both  of those  readings were  rectified  DC

I am  winding  another  toroid ......hoping for  150 V or more .


gary


I got my  new toroid  wound ....not  quite  what I had hoped

87V with the JT LED  101V  without
No real power  ....... I  was thinking that once I got  around 100 V I would  be able to light  my  string  of  LED christmastree lights ..... Nothing  not even a blink

I am going to try  to tune it a little ....... maybe I will get  a little ,more ...

gary

edit

adding caps acrss the  base resistor  seems to add  some power 
I  added a 150uf cap    with  the  resistance  low it flashes very slowly .........but the flashes are VERY  bright .
With  the BIG cap  I  get 102 V  with  the  JT  LED          126 with  the LED remooved