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Overunity Machines Forum



Joule Thief

Started by Pirate88179, November 20, 2008, 03:07:58 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 41 Guests are viewing this topic.

nievesoliveras

Quote from: jadaro2600 on March 24, 2009, 01:13:35 AM
I made an interesting winding today - it's bifilar - twisted pair, wound all the way around, evenly spaced 28 winds of 26 gage wire around a ferrite toroid - electronics goldmine #g16332.  I then wound a pickup coil on this, three winds in between each of the bifilar winds.  As I said earlier, I'm getting junk results on these toroids so far - until now.

Well, basically, I removed the resistor entirely.  The thing runs off of pure inductance flyback to the base. ...I apologize in advance for not including the specs - I'm fixing to hit the sack.

The transistor is not overheating - if it was, then it would overheat with the resistor there in the first place, there's a big red line where I removed the resistor.  Circuit diagram is included in the post with a picture.

Led on the right is running off the pickup coil, there's a large capacitor on the left that read 40v when the circuit is unloaded.

There is no neon in this picture despit it being in the diagram - it's a non essential path.

Mk1 is right, @ jeanna, btw, less is more, but this is with regard to his setups - I'm just looking for weird phenomenon when I prototype.  This one is what i've been looking for when it comes to weirdness - I seem to have gotten the flyback voltage to trigger the base - as potential flows in from positive to the collector through the inductance, the flyback trigger the base, and it automatically turns on, ..so, the flyback is what's cutting the thing on in the first place - the capacitor is there to keep a little charge in the system.

Thank you @jadaro !

Looking at your joule thief circuit modification I see that it is like the bedini ssg main circuit without a resistor and a diode.
That gives me a good idea to resucitate my Joule Thief Pulse Motor.

I have a question though. The pick up coil has a label 3:1. Does that mean that there is a bifilar wind that is 3 winds for each 1? Or it is just saying that you added three turns?

Jesus

hazens1

Did someone say High Permiability Toroids suck? Well, take a look at this.

Toroid: http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/prodinfo.asp?number=G16332  -  Fair-Rite Products Corp type 5975001301 high permeability ferrite toroid features 75 (ui = 5000) material. Size is 25.4mm (1" outer dia.), 15.5mm (0.61" inner dia.), and 6.35mm (0.25") Thick. AL(nH) = 3140. Weighs 9.6 grams.

Wire: http://www.gobrushless.com/shop/index.php?app=ccp0&ns=prodshow&ref=MW-26G-XXX-KR  -  Our 26 AWG magnet wire with DBHPN (double-build heavy poly-nylon) insulation helps to reduce the possibility of electrical shorts when winding your motor. Available in gold, green, and red so you can wind each of the 3 phases of your stator with a different color. This helps reduce the odds of incorrectly winding your stator, as well as gives it a unique look. These kit rolls contain approximately 24 ft.


Base Coil(Green): 10 Turn
Collector Coil(Red): 10 Turn
Pickup Coil(Gold): 80 Turn
Transistor: 2n2222 NPN
Resistor: 1K Ohm 1/4 Watt
Rectifier: 600v 1a Chip Style
Battery: Polaroid 2100mah 1.2v Rechargeable

I'm getting 211 volts rectified from a 75ma battery draw with no load. As load is added to the circuit, the ma draw on the battery drops. With 12 ultra bright LEDs in series on the pickup coil, the draw drops to 60ma. Fully charged, the battery could last 24+ hours at this draw. I could push it more, but I don't want to burn the Transistor. Perhaps I'll try a bigger Transistor and see. Edit: (I tried a TIP31 NPN transistor with 500 ohm resistor to get 235v rectified on 1 AA and 340v rectified on 2 AA.) The toroid vibrates when a load is put on the pickup coil. I can feel the change with my fingers when I turn it on and off. It sings a quiet, very high note also when loaded.

I'm going to make the same wind on the lower permiability 1 inch core I got from Goldmine and compare the results.


TYGER

.

innovation_station

hazens1

verry nice...   

your coil is wound sooooooooo  nice ... 

great job !!

im adding diodes to my big coil i will do some tests ..   

ist!

love the tool box  ;)

got spin!?!?!?!   lol

so i bought thease switching diodes a little while ago ... at RS they come in a 50 pac for 4$ #1n914 type diodes ....

http://www.oup.com/us/pdf/microcircuits/students/diode/1N914B_philip.pdf

theres the specs...

was thinking i might use thease cuz there cheep highspeed and can handle 100v and up to 225ma each  :o   lol

so i got a quick mod i will do to the diode to allow just 1 solder per wire and i will have out wire and diode out ...  bend it!! lol

and the other side ill do it the other way ...

for my latest coil i will finish in the next few days ... i would need 2 pacs of 50  per wire ..  x 4 wires ...  so yea 8 pacs ... x50  and each pac gives 100 ends ... ;D :o

sounds like work ....

but .. i have done similar in the past in this thred ....  so i know it will work fine ...  ;)  i will then gang them to 1 BIG BRIDGE  AND BATCAP!! IT  ;)

invertor and  your pannel ...   

To understand the action of the local condenser E in fig.2 let a single discharge be first considered. the discharge has 2 paths offered~~ one to the condenser E the other through the part L of the working circuit C. The part L  however  by virtue of its self induction  offers a strong opposition to such a sudden discharge  wile the condenser on the other hand offers no such opposition ......TESLA..

THE !STORE IS UP AND RUNNING ...  WE ARE TAKEING ORDERS ..  NOW ..   ISTEAM.CA   AND WE CAN AND WILL BUILD CUSTOM COILS ...  OF   LARGER  OUTPUT ...

CAN YOU SAY GOOD BYE TO YESTERDAY?!?!?!?!

jeanna

Quote from: hazens1 on March 24, 2009, 09:46:45 AM
Did someone say High Permiability Toroids suck? Well, take a look at this.

.
OK, I will try it again. I was working in a different direction when I wound mine, and I may have done the exactly opposite thing I wanted to get good results.

I did buy 2 and I am glad I didn't toss the other! ( :) fat chance, I never toss anything)

So, I will add this to my list and even have a look with my new scope.
---
EDIT ADD:
@Hazens,
There is a good possibility that you do not need 10 turns bifilar to perform the inverter function. You could maybe get away with as little as 3 up and 3 down. then your secondary would give you a very high voltage output.

I will try this myself today.
---

BTW scopers,

Jim guessed dBv had to do with decibels, which is the only thing I could think of too. Is there anyone out there who knows?

There are 3 output forms. dB and dBv and dBm plus the ability to set a user defined dBref.

From the manual, this may be a clue:
dBVmeasurement (dBV ac)The measured ac signal is converted to dBV (0dB=1V)
and also
dBm measurement (dBm ac) The measured ac signal is converted to dBm (0dBm=0.775V)

What the heck does this mean?
Is it really taking so much trouble to convert the signal to loudness of sound? I don't get it!

thank you,

jeanna

@hazens and ist,
if you change the word inside the tags from red to yellow it is much easier to read and actually looks like a highlighted word.
like this:
hard to read
just as hard to read
easy to read - right?

ScienceMan

Hi JT people

Have been caught up with exams and numerous projects for school and I have been off the JT subject for a while (not that I was here on this thread much before) .. but now I'm back at it.

@Hazens...

Absolutely awesome coil you got there --> wound so nicely. I think I might make the same one as you have described there after a small JT (plans from other people) just to get the feel for it... 211V rect. pretty cool! ;D

ScienceMan

Edit: Hazens... Where is the load on this circuit? and when you say you are drawing 75mA - what is drawing that?

ScienceMan