Joule Thief

[stprue]

@stprue

Nice looking toroid , try something for me , i think there is a problem with the connection to the bread board , i have one just like yours and i usually need need to use the clipper cable between the pickup coil and rectifier to get good connection, or i solder a 22 gauge wire at the end so i could connect it properly to the board.

Mark

Also have you tested the toroid in other configuration ?

Mark can you take a look at the pic below, I have made all winding on the inside instead of the out! Is this what you were talking about.  Also in the above coil I actually stop via U-Turn on the inside and start making my back windings!  Maybe this is why it is not working properly? 

[Artic_Knight]

@ jenna
when you got the best results with the smaller and larger windings you had the smaller attatched to the base of the transistor right?

@ all

From what i have seen of this curcuit and correct me if im wrong many thing it is AC. my understanding is to be AC you need to rotate from forwards to backwards or + to -. on the other hand DC or a continuous unchanging current cannot possibly do this right? i mean how could you possibly transfer currents using DC from coil to coil?

My favorite teacher once showed be the experiment that changed my life and views as it is what holds me to the belief that i can produce a unfathomable amount of energy from a power supply in a cell phone.  he took a regular copper water pipe and dropped a magnet down it. this magnet floated all the way down it had soo much resistance in eddy currents it litterally suspended itself in the air!  now in order to produce the eddy currents needed to suspend itself it had to move, so it moved slowly, very very slowly. when attached to a load IE a 40 watt florecent it actually lit the bulb and dropped at a normal rate.

what we are working with here is pulsed DC as shown in the scope shots i have seen posted. i also know its dc by the curcuit layout. the coils are crossed or inverted which means that current can flow down them in their current setup at the same time and produce a magnetic current in the same direction by both. niether coil is opposing the other thus cannot create the negative needed for AC and there is no magnetic collapse happening here either as it is allowed to freely leave in the coil through the led.
now the magnetic field in itself is not strong enough itself to light the led and neither is the battery but when you have a 1.5v battery with a 1.5v magnetic current now you have 3 which is good enough. it travels at a high frequency through the led which we all know from teslas work has remarkable effects of stimulating lights and quite possibly leds with less work than they are rated for.  the high frequency travels on the outside of the wires not internally like regular current thus it meets less friction and thus less resistance allowing it to perpetuate the high frequency if tapped right. what it also does is eliminate losses that would normally be incurred when trying to light a florecent or led because now it does not have to travel through a mercury gas no, instead it travels on the outside of the bulb like static electricity normally does to stimulate the phosphors directly thus again reducing friction or resistance and thus eliminating most of the dirty work. 

in short what we have here is a magnetic capacitor of sorts allowing for parellel power supplies to be added and generate a larger voltage which can be used to do work. or you could bypass the led and just go for some good high voltage high frequency current

ME

[xee2]

@ jeanna

Your fluoro with cap is using 
22.1mw per hour

No. watts = amps x volts = 0.137 x 1.5 = 0.2055 watts = 206 mW
In one hour the energy used will be = watts X hours = 0.205 Watt-hours = 205 mW-hr

A typical AA battert has 1000 mA-hr at 1.5 volts = 1500 mW-hr
therefore, AA battery should light fluorescent bulb for 1500/205 = 7.3 hours

Or you could just divide 1000 ma-hr by 137 ma = 7.3 hours since the voltage is always the same.

[xee2]

@ hazens1

On another note. I was testing my new toroid and SUCCESS 

Excellent. Now there is no reason why ohers can not do the same thing since all of your parts are available from Goldmine.

Thanks for the update.

[jeanna]

  On the inside is it overlapping over the top of the previous overlap as well as the bottom wire?  Here are the pics.

I am probably more annoyed at my self then you are!

that looks great.
Previous overlap? I have never looked as closely as this. I just turn it at the bottom and make it go into the next slot and move on.
I only see one cross at a time in your pic.

edit:
wait, I do see 2 crosses. How many times are you going over this same spot?

Just make sure that you are consistent and you will be able to change something in a meaningful way.

It looks really good to me.
Oh, nevermind the failures. I toss them into a box. If I need the toroid for a new one I know where to look.

As a matter of fact, I re-tested the high permeability and the bad blue last night. No there was nothing I missed before. They are both terrible.
Maybe they are christmas tree ornaments...


jeanna