Joule Thief

[stprue]

@all .here is real free light . they run for practically ever . they are small florescent tube coated with a phosphor  for different colors . I have had these for 10 years and they give off light in the dark permanet with a tritium gas that produces an electron release much like 10,000 volts in a tv screen and lights the phosphor . . I got these and they are not available in the US .. I call it Alien Technology of sorts .. very cool . Need no light to recharge cause they stay lit all the time for free . I took the lights in the dark with there own light . They are available in the UK however . The Half Life of Tritium is supposed to be 10 to 15 years . I have a watch with tritium dial from the 50s My grandfather gave me and it is still lighting bright enuff to see under the covers of night .! Others have said the radiation is permanent and will last forever .. I have seen these tubes build for the military that are HUGE . As Big as 12 inches and are used By them for light . they Produce Bright Usable light to read by for the Military oF course containing over 10,000 milli curies . these colored  tube contain over 100 milli curies of trit. . the legal limit is less than 1 millicuri for a us citizen and that is what you see in Glock sights and navy seal watches  .

I was looking into these a few years back with an idea that maybe I could sandwitch some of these between two small solar panels to get some volts.  They are probably not bright enough though!

[stprue]

Good going everyone!

I just passed page 120 so you all must be on page 600 too? (50 posts aper page is much easier to read)

I am half way through the biggo fatso. Winding it sure goes fast when you can just put the whole spool through the middle.

I am putting 240 turns on this one... 60up,60down,across,60up,,60down. So far I have 131 volts on this secondary. I will perfect the primary when I finish the secondary, but for now, it is a slower oscillation. I am just using a 1k ohm resistor, and I am sure I will need a much higher value resistor to keep the frequency from dropping through the floor.

131v
17kHz
1k ohm

at
79ohms I got
275V but only
7.2KHz
This is not a good  level because I cannot go much less than 79ohm.
But anyway that is the range so far.

half way

jeanna

Nice work Jeanna, so it sounds like you took my advice to just sliding the spool through the center.  Did you have to cut it down smaller?

P.S. Did you see my working Hazen1 design I'm getting 261v no resistor and I think I can get more 300+  well we  will see!

[jeanna]

Nice work Jeanna, so it sounds like you took my advice to just sliding the spool through the center.  Did you have to cut it down smaller?

Thanks, no I used the wire from newbiewire and the spool is smaller. It fits right in.
BTW I was in Radio shack the other day and the spools of their wire are now this same kind also. These fit right through the center. I just dropped it into the center. It worked so easily. I hope the ferrite is strong enough, but I am not sure yet.

P.S. Did you see my working Hazen1 design I'm getting 261v no resistor

No, and since that was my 4th copy using the secondary going all one way then turning and returning all back the other way, I am not going to even think about it anymore.

@Jim,
I had my scope on the Hazens  replication. I think that said it all. The voltage was 0.025v on the hazens and without turning the scope off or changing anything on the scope, another toroid from my collection performed exactly as  it always does. No, it was not OK. It killed the JT. I think any winding that goes beyond the halfway mark will kill the JT. the MK1 uses 2 such windings, but they are a bit less than halfway around and they are centertapped. It makes all the difference. It not only allows the toroid to pulse the mag field, it enhances it like a swing.

@Arctic Knight,
Perhaps you should actually MAKE a joule thief. I think you will see many many similarities with many of Tesla's writings. I believe we are all seeing these similarities. Just make one... you will see too (and then you will know what we are also seeing).

@Gadget,
What is the size of the disk cap in your diagram? Do you think it matters? I mean the one farthest to the right of the 3 coming off the secondary.
EDIT ADD
these guys have a $25 minimum, but the choke cores are the high flux, in fact this page is all high flux.
http://www.cwsbytemark.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=206_222

thank you all,

jeanna

[electricme]

@Gadget and Bill,
You should be able to do this as Bill has suggested.

@ Gadget:

I'll bet we could light a tube in which the filaments were broken, what do you think?

Bill

Taking a looksee inside a Neon light, the closer the 2 seperate electrodes are, the easier it is for them to light up.
Now lets suppose these 2 neon electrodes decide to walk away from each other, a half inch, they will still be able to light up, but, it will take more energy to do so.

Now lets say we seperate the same 2 electrodes, and put them inside a small fluro tube.
OK, we can still light them up, but it takes even more energy to do so.

Now, some smarty pants overnight swaps the neon electrodes for coiled tlectrodes (you was sleepin) he he, and in the morning you turns on the power and it still lights up, ha ha, any electrode will work.

jim
*****************************************

OK all,
I got an idea, an I wasnt dreamin, even though I should be in bed.
a single 1N4004 diode is rated to 400volts. After that it could breakdown at higher voltages.

OK, take a string of them and make your own High Voltage Diode.
D1 ==   400v solder the next in series so on and so forth.
D2 ==   800v
D3 ==  1200v
D4 ==  1600v
D5 ==  2000v

Just keep addiding diodes in series to create an even higher volt diode.

If you have 1n4007 diodes, then it is easier to make a smaller HV diode string setup.

D1 = 1kv add D2 = 2kv add D3 = 3kv add D4 =4kv
C1               C2               C3                C4 = grunt lol

If you put a single 1Kv rated ceramic cap at each diode, them whammo, you got heeps of grunt with HV output, aaaaaarrrrruuuuuggggghhhhh we getting there...........

To test each string, add 1v to each number of diodes in the string, so 5 diodes = 5v
So get a 6 volt battery with a bulb in series and the bulb lights one way, reverse the diode string, the bulb wont light.

PLease see the below circuit modification.

0754 = Poor Mans High Voltage Diode Build
0752 = Hands protection from HV, not gauranteed lol,
 
Im toooo tired, too silly 4 words
hooroo

jim

[gadgetmall]

Thanks, no I used the wire from newbiewire and the spool is smaller. It fits right in.
BTW I was in Radio shack the other day and the spools of their wire are now this same kind also. These fit right through the center. I just dropped it into the center. It worked so easily. I hope the ferrite is strong enough, but I am not sure yet.
No, and since that was my 4th copy using the secondary going all one way then turning and returning all back the other way, I am not going to even think about it anymore.

@Jim,
I had my scope on the Hazens  replication. I think that said it all. The voltage was 0.025v on the hazens and without turning the scope off or changing anything on the scope, another toroid from my collection performed exactly as  it always does. No, it was not OK. It killed the JT. I think any winding that goes beyond the halfway mark will kill the JT. the MK1 uses 2 such windings, but they are a bit less than halfway around and they are centertapped. It makes all the difference. It not only allows the toroid to pulse the mag field, it enhances it like a swing.

@Arctic Knight,
Perhaps you should actually MAKE a joule thief. I think you will see many many similarities with many of Tesla's writings. I believe we are all seeing these similarities. Just make one... you will see too (and then you will know what we are also seeing).

@Gadget,
What is the size of the disk cap in your diagram? Do you think it matters? I mean the one farthest to the right of the 3 coming off the secondary.
EDIT ADD
these guys have a $25 minimum, but the choke cores are the high flux, in fact this page is all high flux.
http://www.cwsbytemark.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=206_222

thank you all,

jeanna

Hi Jeanna  . The Big Brown Cap you can see what i see . the Blue is 105 and the orange drop is 101  I think any ceramic cap will work . I think My laser doubler i made had .01 3000 volt disk caps if i remember . I trie a 10 and it was not at good as the 104 105 though . i just added the big disk and the voltage got a little higher . I want to make another one and Ditch the tip121 darlington . Without it the volts are 9 times lower . I need marks toroid . I have tried an Mk1 and 2 . they didn't work for me . Low volts ... its the toroid s i have i guess . this allaround design is working great but i cheated with the darlington and V doubler . I dont really care because i did it first but i prefer using a 2n2222 or 2n3904 or one of my germaniums to achieve what mark is doing .

Gadget
Al