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Overunity Machines Forum



Joule Thief

Started by Pirate88179, November 20, 2008, 03:07:58 AM

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stprue

Quote from: Artic_Knight on May 19, 2009, 04:28:27 PM
i have not had much time to rewind a toroid but tesla used the "pancake bifiliar" coil in everything he did.  he wound his motors transformers and everything in that fassion. if it was a 3d coil then just stack them on top of each other and you get the idea, a particular magnetic coil i want to test is a bifiliar coil where the windings are next to each other wound at the same time going down the spool then with no additional windings bring the wire back down to the bottom and wind it again.this causes the first wire to pulse from the back of the coil to the front over and over then move to the second wire and do the same. with electricity however this would happen simultaneously in the entire wire.

MIT lectures on youtube would tell you a single electron from every atom down the wire moves together as if they are chained. NOT from one bouncin into the other.  its simple, the entire wire moves together or not at all.  so a reaction in the wire happens at the same time through the entire course of that wire meaning all coils fire off at the same time creating a magnetic field in the same direction! works much better than the lazy way of winding a coil back and forth between the ends of the roll as is done today.

if one is to play with electricity one should really know tesla.  MIT has good lectures on youtube too. 

the capacitor increasing frequency in any curcuit was way back in the day. also does anyone know about "eddy currents" ? have you ever considered on a DC generator bridging a cap accross the generators output terminals? you should, it will greatly increase efficiency. why?  eddy currents is a term to define electrical resistance. EVERYTHING that controls a current is creating resistance. the cap is the one thing that will not create a resistance (well it does but no more than copper wire itself really) this means that the torque needed to drive the generator is reduced because friction is reduced. 

for those that may think im all theories, try again :) ive posted a couple curcuits or things i "planned to try" before i did but i also notated that. what i say is true i have proven to be true through experiments.

its all about the eddies

Well there's no question that you know far more then myself.  In fact I have taught myself over the past 8 months what little I know now.  I'm proud of that! 

stprue

Quote from: jeanna on May 19, 2009, 05:06:57 PM
Yes, it does. the stubblefield generator is  IMO closer, though.
But it doesn't matter too much because we are on to it as far as I am concerned.
The reason I keep reading this Tesla book is
1- I haven't before.
2- I am thinking something he will say will help me to get my mind wrapped around what to do next. He spends a lot of time with things like the sparks and lighting that we do not need to, but there is still a lot in the principles that get through, to me at least.

I think we are all different and we all have personal reasons to be in this thread and so I think you should go for it. If you want to try something... do it! Please report what does not work as well as what does. That really helps a lot.

==

I just finished winding 240 turns of 24 awg wire on the biggo.
I got 131V at 17KHz.
This is pretty low, but it does have a lot of material, and I am not sure of the flux rating, so... there it is. It is probably medium flux like the goldmine medium.

On the primary,
I wound
3T,5T and got 127Vthen
3T,4T and it is 131V. But with
2T,4T it is 60V

I will next try splitting it in the MKx2 fashion.

The wave is really smooooth like out of the wall. I should see if I can light my led string, though answers.com pointed out that peak to peak the volts in the wall is 170V to give us the rms of 110-120v.

I will also lower the resistance which is now at 923ohms. The frequency will go lower, but that is probably OK as long as it doesn't go below 60!  :)

OK I'm done for now,

jeanna

I was thinking with mine I would like to devide it into 4 MK x2's and use thick wire do to the shear size of the "biggo".  Thank you for reporting your results.

stprue

Quote from: hazens1 on May 19, 2009, 06:24:39 PM
Found a local supplier for toroids and other good stuff. Located 5 miles from my house  ;D

I picked up some High Flux, Low Perm 1.3 inchers today...

http://www.surplussales.com/Inductors/FerToro/FerToro-3.html

Those look NICE.  Now lets see what they can do! Good find Hazens1

stprue

Quote from: Pirate88179 on May 19, 2009, 08:11:31 PM
By NS set-up you mean Nathan Stubblefield (as opposed to North South) those are much harder to make but do have a higher output.  Also, theoretically at least, they can be placed in series or parallel if you make several of them.

I chose the electrode method way back in our early EB days, then I went to the coils.  Now, I am back to the earlier method with better material on the south side.

It is up to you but with a little alignment tweaks you get the electrode model up and working in no time.  I am not all that familiar with what Gadget is offering with his EB kit but I will say it is a pain to locate a supplier that will sell you 1 of anything be it carbon rods or magnesium.
I believe he is selling good sized rods of each material and I know he has tested this set-up.  If you need any help on setting it up, just let me know.  Gadget may have instructions for all I know.

Either way you go, it is fun to go outside and see lights running from the ground. ***EDIT***  I just checked Gadget's site and he is only asking $55.00 for the two electrodes for the EB.  That is a very decent price if you ask me.  My carbon rod was like $25.00 plus shipping and my magnesium (large block) was $46.00.

Bill

Yes I meant Nathan Stubblefield but the simplicity of the electrode method sounds more novice friendly.  Thanks for the info's!

stprue

Quote from: xee2 on May 19, 2009, 08:12:10 PM
The TIP31C also works in my circuits, but is also not a direct replacement for the 2N3055. It seems to have about the same performance as the 2N3055 but seems to oscillate at a higher frequency.  The 2N3772 would not light the tube at all in this circuit.

I have both but as of now the tip31 works great on everything I have made.  Maybe with a larger coil or a least more turns the 2N3055 will be better.  I'll tell you one thing I haven't felt it heat up with anything I have done.