Joule Thief

[xee2]

@ Thaelin

   I posted the result of the test simply to verify the other test. My outcome was the same. I have a dual spiral wound 3"X6" coil with a 220k cap soldered to it for the input side. The other coil has a 220k soldered in series with it to the bulb. There was no readings taken other than to see what the input voltage was from the sig gen. That part will come later as I progress into another area other than the jewel thief. This may well be something that could be used in the circuit. I am not sure just how yet. Getting there.

thay

Did you check this site?

http://www.instructables.com/id/Wireless-Power-Transmission-Over-Short-Distances-U/

He is using bulb on coupled coil in parallel with capacitor and coil (everything in parallel). You seem to have everything in series. Should work both ways. If you try his way please post which way works best.

I think that everything in parallel will give higher voltage across bulb and therefore may make it easier to light an LED. I think that both should provide same amount of power with series giving more current. But I have not done this in a long time and I do not remember the details.

If you use LEDs with parallel circuit you may need to use two in parallel with one reversed so as not to exceed reverse breakdown voltage of LED.

[Artic_Knight]

hello all

you can use the  thermoelectric modules  on a steirling motor


wer

well if you do that then you might just as well power a electric motor, ive got a pretty good idea that the effeciencies of the two combined wont amount to OU. 

now that you mention it i considered adding a sterling to the geothermal and solar system i designed for my house, with a big water tank chances are you wont need it for hot water and many times hot water us used in the mornings after the temp has had a chance to fall so for summer use a sterling could be tied in to make some electricity out of that hot water stored. hopefully make up for most of the homes electricity.

[Pirate88179]

I have quoted a reply I received from Dr. Stiffler about my new supercap on Energetic Forum:


"Bill who told you that a SuperCap would continue to accept charge if the voltage across it remained the same?  Here are some basic facts that apply to all caps (SuperCaps included);  Q = CV C = Q/V V = Q/C  V is the voltage on the cap. C if the capacity in Farads and Q is the charge or Coulombs.  The energy in the cap can be found with a basic formula J = 1/2(CV^2) where J is Joules or WattSeconds. If you want WattHours then WHr = J/3600  So if yo have a cap of 650F @ 2.7V you get J=1/2(650*(2.7^2)) = 2.369E3 or 2,369 WattSeconds. Divide this by 3600 and 2369/3600= 6.581E-1 Watt Hours or 0.6581 = 658milliwatt hours.  Yes if you direct short this cap through the meter it should burn something up, but the fuse will not necessarily respond as the initial pulse is very short.  This is not much energy as the power is determined over time so you must use V*I*T.  The stored energy in a cap can also be found by W=CV^2/2 which I showed above.  Note that one Joule or WattSecond is only 2.78E-7 KwHr.  Hope this helps."[/]


He says that there is not much energy stored in my cap at all.  I don't know enough to argue with himbut look at what I was able to do with just two 10 farad caps and now I won't be able to do much with 650?  This makes no sense to me at all.  He is saying I will only have milliwatts for output and again, I find this very hard to believe.
As for the part about someone telling me the cap will continue to charge above my input voltage, well, I have seen that with my own eyes and so no one had to tell me anything.  1.95 vdc input from EB and now over 2.4 vdc on the supercap and climbing.  Something or someone is not correct here.

Bill

[Artic_Knight]

@ All:

I am posting this here even though it has nothing to do with the JT circuits....yet.  I need the advice of the smart folks here.  Yesterday, I received my 650 Farad maxcap from Gadgetmall (Thanks Al) and that sucker is huge!!  The polarity is clearly marked and there is a warning on the label not to reverse it.  I installed it into a plastic waterproof container (tupperware) to make it weatherproof and hooked it to my Earth battery yesterday afternoon.  Well, this morning I got up, got some coffee and decide to stick my meter on it just to see how it was doing.  Here are the results:

+2.4 volts dc
-9.7 amps dc  (This is on the 10 amp setting on my meter, not mA!)

I can't think of any reason that the polarity on the amp setting would be minus and the volts are plus.  I have never seen anything like this before while working with the EB and supercaps, etc.  If this -9.7 amps is usable given the reverse polarity, I will be able to run some great stuff from this but I am confused by this.

I tested it like 5 different times now and still get the same thing. 

Without any supercaps at all, I was getting about +1.95 vdc and +10 mA's from just the EB.

Can someone tell me why this amp reading has a - sign in front of it and, will this affect my trying to use this power?

Thanks.  These 650 caps from Al are really somethng and well worth the price he asks for them.

Bill

well the first and obvious question is did you connect it backwards to the ground? how about the meter?  sure it can be used to run something! you will need to wire it respectively to have the pos charge (connected to the neg on your meter) flow as it should through a curcuit but its the same as any other potential.

bill something to consider, the cap will charge and equal the force applied to it then stop charging, it sounds like your cap has found its max. if you add a diod it will allow you to store a greater amount of electricity than the ground can provide which is really what you want.

think of it this way if you push a car up a hill it will move up the hill (work with me on this) now as the rate of climb increases to near strait up it will eventually find a steep enough slope that you cannot push any higher and now you become stationary even tho you are pushing with the same force. you could climb that hill if the car didnt threaten to roll backwards right? you could continue to nudge it forward but you cant because the constant force you provide cant keep it up on that grade of slope. add a diode and now it cant go backwards so you can continue to nudge it to the top of the hill!!  capacitors are kinda alike in that respect. they will only take on the voltage provided which in your case seems to be 2.5v and you have reached the steepest part of the slope you can support at 9.5a so add a diode and it will be 2.5v and a infinite amp until you reach the max which is apparently for you 650.

hope this helps.

[AbbaRue]

@Pirate88179
You don't need to worry about shock danger when working with low
voltages like 2 volts.  I doesn't matter how many amps you have.
You could stick your tongue across that super cap when it is fully charged
and you would just feel a tingle on your tongue.
Even 12 volts is safe to handle.  You can touch the 2 terminals of a 12 volt
battery with your fingers without feeling anything as long as your
fingers aren't wet.

As for keeping the voltage down to run a Fuji circuit I would recommend a voltage regulator circuit.
You need a 1.5 volt zener diode and a transistor to make one.
Lots of voltage regulator schematics on the internet.