Joule Thief

[Mk1]

@all

I did post the result form the quad , no one said anything .

I guess you guys don't read all the post unless your name is at the top of the post ...

I personally read everything ...

Mark

[jeanna]

So... what was it? how did it work?

I will make a post next door. I just added 2 more lights!!

jeanna
do you mean this?

@all

I have conducted two test on the quad leaf.

The jt coils are each 4 turns one coil on top of the other , works with out caps 1k resistor .

First , i wound two of the toroid with 20 turns of 22 gauge bell wire.

I have selected two touching toroid , lets say north and east .


Test 1: voltage one 20 turns 50 volts .

Test 2 : check voltage under load , to see if the toroid would behave in the same way.

To do this i have on pickup coil connected to the voltmeter (with bridge) and the other pickup coil located on the second toroid charging a cap , and lighting a led.

Result , and important the led works fine on one pickup coil and the second pickup coil still shows 50 volts .

This is great !

Next step , will be to get a better voltage from tuning of the jt coils.

Also testing a coil web going form one toroid to the other making it a 3d ball , this will need a picture .

Mark

How is it going? Have you continued to test this.
I have been waiting to hear more, myself. This is only a beginning, if it is a good thing to do, that is.
j

[electricme]

@Freepow,

:)Hello, its freepow, Can anyone tell me, when making Joule thiefs... is it better to have an oscilliscope or digital multi-meter
I am thinking of purchasing a 10Mhz oscilliscope for $148 Aust, as i dont have heaps of money, can I measure DC or AC more acurately on a oscilliscope from a JT ??  or a Multi-meter ??
would a 10mhz oscilliscope help or would it be not worth having??
Any comments would be much appreciated, thanks

What the folks are suggesting is right, get yourself a DMM, I see you are an Aussie, head down to your nearest DSE or Jaycar or Altronics electronics shop, and take a look around there.
I have DSE Q1471 DMM which is my best DMM, look at Jaycar for the Digitech range QM1524 which is at a good price.
I also have bought several DMMs from Big W.

As scondhand Scopes are so difficult to get here, I suggest you shell out for that one you asked about previously, if you don't have any scope experience, it will be a good one to learn on.

I took a look at the digital PICO PS2203 scope, the cost for us would be about $491.56 and it was only a 5Mhz scope, better shellout that amount when you are sure you need to upgrade.

The Cathode scopes are going out of fashion now, so get a digital when you are ready, they do have many more features than the older scopes.

@all,
I broke my Internet Explorer, it is still broke lol, I had Firefox, took it off and then found IE could look but not post, so Firefox was reinstalled and I can post again, got a real fright.

SOUNDCARD snippert of info.
There are generally 3 types of input to the computer sound card
Mic  (microphone IN)    voltage is millivolts, 0.001mv to 0.1v
AUX (Auxullery IN)       voltage is up to 1.0 volts input
Line  (Line IN)             voltage can be from 0.0v to 1.5 - 2.0v

Some sound cards dont have all 3 inputs, some sound cards have many imputs.
Just depends what you want to do with the sound.

Sound is an electrical sig at a variable constant ever changing voltage, so measuring EB or Joule Thief outputs is just a matter of matching the output to the input of the sound card.

Most sound card input will be rated at 600 ohms, a standard unit in the recording industry, you can "isolate" the input by feeding it through a "matching" transformer, ie 600ohm to 600 ohm, or 600ohm to 1200ohm, or switch this one around to 1200ohm to 600ohm.
Depends how you feed it, and with what, if the output might get too high, slap a zenner diode across the output to crowbar it.

Now lets see if this will post ok.

jim 

[Mk1]

http://www.disclose.tv/viewvideo/29990/Dr__Steven_Greer_The_Promise_of_New_Energy/

[resonanceman]

Hi Gary,

Yeah, I am liking the linux. It works and like here, on the ubuntu forum, there are people to help. More, in fact.
I went to sourceforge and downloaded the xoscope but it did not install itself. I am not very sure how to do it, so I emailed the guy for the manual, which I did not see. So, anybody else who wants to try, we can work it out  together.


I was/am also waiting to hear about the quad. I s'pose it wasn't too great, or we'd have heard about it.

You say the spot led array is being fed by 4  separate toroids??

I didn't realize that! I must be mistaken about what you mean.

I am glad to hear the array is still going.

jeanna

Jeanna

My 90 LED array  is not   powered  by  4  toroids ......yet.

I looked  at  the  original  electronics  a little  closer .
The LEDs in the  array  are  fed from 4 points
There is  a central  connection  for  all the LEDs in the center of the array.

There are 4 caps  on the board .  2 chips  that  I am sure  are bridge rectifiers ..... 2 leads one each are marked  with a sign wave ......the other 2 are marked + and -
There are  also 4  resistors and  something  else  that  looks  like it could  be a larger  resistor .........but it is   covered  with heat  shrink tubing. 

No  toroids  at all .

I like  the  electronics  on this  array ........it  lets me use  the   array as a genearal  purpose load .    The LEDs  will  light very dimly at lower  voltages .....  I am not  sure  if there is  over voltage  protection ......but I  have  driven it  with  250V

About  the  quad toroid .   I just thought  it  would  be an  ideal  way  to drive  an array   with  4 inputs .  I was  thinking that   more  secondarys   might  allow me to power  the  array  with less input .

Note  ........ the  90 LED  array  seems to be  the old style floodlight .
The  basic  design  has  been changing   very fast .
I  have  bought  5 of them  over the last  year or 2 .
The newer ones   have  60 LEDs   and are  a  few bucks  cheaper .
The  first ones I bought   were held together   with  a little  silicone  rubber .
Each one  I have bought sense  then  has   had  some  changes .........and has  been more durable ......  as in  harder to take  apart .
The  electronics  of the  newer  floodlights  do not   allow  the  LEDs to light dimly  at low  power ..... 

gary