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[nievesoliveras]

Thank you @nul-points
Thank you @allcanadian

@fatchance
Please iluminate us with your wisdom. Share with us your knowledge.
Point out what we are doing wrong and give us the right direction.
If what you teach us is good, everybody will know and applaud you.

Jesus

[Pirate88179]

Jesus:

Here is a mechanical way to pulse your battery, since you need just a touch:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XYhNw6SuTfA

This was the infamous Wilby's Bird Experiment which I think will work well for your circuit.  This was Wilby's brilliant idea and these little birds only cost about $5.00 online.  All it needs is a little water about once/week and, it does not take any energy away from your circuit like a 555 timer would.

Check this out as I really think it will work.

Bill

[nievesoliveras]

Jesus:

Here is a mechanical way to pulse your battery, since you need just a touch:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XYhNw6SuTfA

This was the infamous Wilby's Bird Experiment which I think will work well for your circuit.  This was Wilby's brilliant idea and these little birds only cost about $5.00 online.  All it needs is a little water about once/week and, it does not take any energy away from your circuit like a 555 timer would.

Check this out as I really think it will work.

Bill

I have been having troubles with the internet connection...

Thank you @pirate!
I knew about that one. If I remember I did one sketch about it.
The only problem I found with it is that it sometimes stays making the connection for too long.
When it does that, the motor stops and it is not self starter. You have to give it the starting turn. Then the motor keeps turning.

I do expect that the internet signal does not disappear again today.

Jesus

[nul-points]

hi Jesus

i've been thinking more about your circuit


while it's true that connecting your 1N4007 causes a direct DC path from 12V to the 1.5V rail of the battery and LT device, i don't think this is the direct cause of the damage

the 12V point is the output of the LT device and the 1.5V point is the input of the LT device

so i believe that the direct cause for damage is that connecting the output to the input via the 1N4007 is causing the LT device to go into external oscillation - and this oscillation, if it occurs for long enough, is what damages the device

there is some evidence which supports this idea: you mentioned that connecting the 1N4007 causes a high-pitched whine from the coil, and the neon gets a lot brighter - both are signs that the circuit has started generating strong oscillations

manufacturers of devices like the LTxxx advise users to avoid such feedback and oscillation, but i'm interested by the details you've reported

so why not let it run automatically, in a controlled way - as you first intended - and tell us what you find!


my previous circuit is aimed at blocking the damaging feedback to allow the circuit to operate continuously with the coil-collapse energy feeding back to the battery

however, as i've mentioned, i think you'll find that when the feedback is only the coil-collapse energy on its own (ie. the usual method used in JTs & Bedini, etc) that although the efficiency of your circuit should increase - you probably won't see that dramatic recharge of the battery


so i suggest you try my previous suggested circuit first and try to get a measure for any increase of time running from, say, a AAA or AA battery (smaller is better, if it can drive the motor, because it won't take so long to wait for the battery to discharge)


you could then add a circuit, similar to the one below, which DOES cause the 'unwanted' oscillation across the LT device - but only for a fraction of a second, say, every few seconds

then, repeat the discharge test with the new circuit added and see if this gives better or worse efficiency for the 1.5V battery


the new circuit, which allows occasional DC feedback from the 12V point to the 1.5V battery, is controlled by a similar switching circuit to the one you've posted recently

once VR1 & VR2 are adjusted to give a short pulse every few seconds (like your manual 'tap' of the wire onto the battery), then the pulse will switch on Q4, via the opto-isolator, to connect diode D4 to the battery

you would use this new circuit in addition to the previous DC blocking feedback circuit - on this new diagram i've shown where C1 & L2 from the previous circuit get connected (still in the same place as before)

it would be best, if you decide to try this circuit also, to use a separate battery for the new switching arrangement at first, just to see if the new circuit improves the efficiency of your system - it's decoupled by the opto-isolator, so it won't add or draw any energy from your basic system

the new battery could probably be 2 or 3 AAAs or AAs in series

let me know if you'd like some guidance with component values


hope this helps

all the best
np

http://docsfreelunch.blogspot.com

[nievesoliveras]

Thank you @nul-points!

I can see that this one is more compkicated and that it need another battery to work.
If that is the case, we still have the problem of charging the two batteries then.
It seems to be an isolated circuit by the opto that will activate the transistor and send the charging diodes energy to the battery.

Again the only problem besides the name of the parts is that it needs another battery to work. Or is it that, that battery represents the charging battery?

Jesus

Looking at it again I can see now that it is a flip flop circuit. A member called @electricme likes that circuit too.