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Overunity Machines Forum



LaFonte Group Pseudo Solid Magnet Motor OU test, 3 videos on Youtube

Started by Butch LaFonte, January 22, 2009, 12:30:33 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 2 Guests are viewing this topic.

Butch LaFonte

I am getting requests for fabrication drawings and materials list for the Pseudo Solid proof of concept fixture.
I will make a more detailed drawing and post it.
Also here is a list of things to be careful about when dealing with machine shops.
1. Never tell the shop you are building an overunity device. Tell them you are building a class room teaching aid for a high school or college teacher.
If they ask what it does tell them it demonstrates magnetic field behavior. I say that and they have never asked another thing about what it is.
2. When you request it be built out of 1018 steel, be very animate that it be 1018 because of it's particular magnetic properties. I have had shops just grab any thing they have in their shop and think you won't know the difference. If you get high carbon or hard ferromagnetic steel it will stay magnetized after leaving the magnetic field. Plus test results will vary and get everyone confused and alienated. I have 1018 magnetic properties data if any one needs it.
3. Take the 1/8" steel rod with you and leave it with him so he can put a micrometer on it to match the thru hole for the rod slip fit. Clean the rod with steel wool or emery cloth till it is smooth and shiny before he gets it for measuring it's diameter. Tell him you need the rotors to slide and rotate freely, but not have any play.
If it is too tight when you get it home you can use emery cloth on the rod to get it just right. I have done it many times. The rotor has to rotate freely at all costs.
You should be able to blow on it and it rotate.
4. When you get it home, clean and debur the parts and all edges. Remember you may put it on video and the world see it.
5. Try keeping it indoors and spray it with WD40 to keep it from rusting. I have 1018 that is seven years old in my office and is still shiny and shows no rust.
6. Build the frame from wood to save money if needed and never from any ferromagnetic material. Aluminum is OK also.
7. Only test when unit is level.
8. Keep children and the dog away from it. My daughters were always interested it my machines and I had to lock them up. The machines that is, not my daughters.
Thanks,
Butch LaFonte
lafontegroup@charter.net

sushimoto

Hi butch,

i am still enjoying this thread an there seems to be a progress :)

Do you have any clue, what "(CRS?) 1018 steel" could be in europe?
We do have "DIN"- norm, in which numbers differ from yours (AISI?) in the US.
Machine shops rarely knowing the exact formula of their material,
so i cannot ask for i.E. "RFe12 Carbon Steel" maybe cold rolled... 

anybody?

best,
sushi

PS EDIT: just found this: http://www.matweb.com/reference/steel.aspx

Exellent site for materials!
DAMIT DAS MOEGLICHE ENTSTEHT, MUSS IMMER WIEDER DAS UNMOEGLICHE VERSUCHT WERDEN.

Butch LaFonte

Quote from: sushimoto on January 28, 2009, 04:37:22 PM
Hi butch,

i am still enjoying this thread an there seems to be a progress :)

Do you have any clue, what "(CRS?) 1018 steel" could be in europe?
We do have "DIN"- norm, in which numbers differ from yours (AISI?) in the US.
Machine shops rarely knowing the exact formula of their material,
so i cannot ask for i.E. "RFe12 Carbon Steel" maybe cold rolled... 

anybody?

best,
sushi

PS EDIT: just found this: http://www.matweb.com/reference/steel.aspx

Exellent site for materials!
Here is some additional info on 1018.
Let me know if you can not find out what 1018 designation is there.
Butch LaFonte
http://www.iea.lth.se/emk/literature/FEMM40_matlib.pdf

http://www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.cfm?qid=195439&page=1

http://home.eng.iastate.edu/~nbowler/pdf%20final%20versions/conferences/QNDE2005Bowler.pdf

http://www.lord.com/Portals/0/MR/Magnetic_Circuit_Design.pdf

http://www.vacuumschmelze.de/dynamic/en/index.php

Butch LaFonte

I am getting requests for fabrication drawings and materials list for the Pseudo Solid proof of concept fixture.
I will make a more detailed drawing and post it.
Also here is a list of things to be careful about when dealing with machine shops.
1. Never tell the shop you are building an overunity device. Tell them you are building a class room teaching aid for a high school or college teacher.
If they ask what it does tell them it demonstrates magnetic field behavior. I say that and they have never asked another thing about what it is.
2. When you request it be built out of 1018 steel, be very animate that it be 1018 because of it's particular magnetic properties. I have had shops just grab any thing they have in their shop and think you won't know the difference. If you get high carbon or hard ferromagnetic steel it will stay magnetized after leaving the magnetic field. Plus test results will vary and get everyone confused and alienated. I have 1018 magnetic properties data if any one needs it.
3. Take the 1/8" steel rod with you and leave it with him so he can put a micrometer on it to match the thru hole for the rod slip fit. Clean the rod with steel wool or emery cloth till it is smooth and shiny before he gets it for measuring it's diameter. Tell him you need the rotors to slide and rotate freely, but not have any play.
If it is too tight when you get it home you can use emery cloth on the rod to get it just right. I have done it many times. The rotor has to rotate freely at all costs.
You should be able to blow on it and it rotate.
4. When you get it home, clean and debur the parts and all edges. Remember you may put it on video and the world see it.
5. Try keeping it indoors and spray it with WD40 to keep it from rusting. I have 1018 that is seven years old in my office and is still shiny and shows no rust.
6. Build the frame from wood to save money if needed and never from any ferromagnetic material. Aluminum is OK also.
7. Only test when unit is level.
8. Keep children and the dog away from it. My daughters were always interested it my machines and I had to lock them up. The machines that is, not my daughters.
Thanks,
Butch LaFonte
lafontegroup@charter.net
Additional information
9. Ask the shop if they can machine to plus or minus .005" if possible.
10. While at the shop assemble rotors on shaft and see if they interlock with no touching and all gaps look consistent.
11. The radius call outs in the new drawing will cause the air gaps between the interlock elements to be .050"
Cut a piece of wood the exact size of the rotor to use when lining up the rotor between the stator bars. This will eliminate any problems with the stator wanting to "jump" to the stator when setting it up in the center. After setting it up just exchange the wood for the steel rotors.
Set up > Cut a piece of wood the exact size of the rotor to use when lining up the rotor between the stator bars. This will eliminate any problems with the stator wanting to "jump" to the stator when setting it up in the center. After setting it up just exchange the wood for the steel rotors.
Make sure that the rotors are as close to perfect center between the top and bottom stator bars. This will reduce any pull in one direction on the center steel rod. Also make sure the center axis of the rotors is as close to 90 degrees to the stator assembly as possible for full 360 degrees. These two adjustments are very important.

Butch LaFonte