Gadgetmall's Fuji Mod light CFL from 1 AA/AAA for - 12 hrs + - Thread 2

[Goat]

Test #2 continued:

I have run the circuit with different transistors and capacitor values but the results are the same, if I use the 68 pF capacitor and adjust the 10 K pot for a minimum CFL brightness then the battery power consumption is reduced but not much light. 

If I increase the capacitance to higher value up to 0.01 μF the battery power consumption is reduced a little but I get even less light.  Interesting also is that if I use a higher value polarized electrolytic capacitor I can get the CFL to strobe and not use much power but that isn't useful and gets annoying after awhile....lol

If I increase the brightness of the CFL then the battery is consumed rapidly and the brightness of the CFL dims rapidly.

I hooked up another analog meter to measure the current but it seems to affect the circuit by making the CFL harder to light and using more power to get it going, the best I could get for brightness with the amp meter was showing 70 mA but the battery voltage was lower than without the amp meter in the circuit.

Conclusions:

There must be other components in Fuji circuit that are playing a role in increasing the brightness of the CFL as shown in gadget's video because the barebone circuit with only the transformer and the capacitor is not enough to get the CFL to any reasonable brightness without consuming the battery within a few hours instead of 12 hours.

I may have caused a slight performance problem by reversing the connections to pin 4 to collector and pin 1 to the positive because of the dot being on pin 4 but I won't change this circuit just yet as it does function just not emitting much light. 

I will try and build another circuit with all the components that are on a Fuji circuit to further test this but I don't see many components coming into play as the switch used for the flash isn't closed and therefore excludes some of the components.  I won't be able to use the circuit layout as posted on the josepino.com site because it shows a transformer with 6 wires in the schematic while all the ones that I have only use 5 pins.

Paul

[Goat]

Hi All

Test #2 A - Barebone Fuji transformer circuit with cap in parallel with 1 K Ohm 20 turn resistor and 2SD2470 transistor.

Still messing around with the barebone Fuji circuit, after many configurations I am up to over 24 hours lighting a CFL at a low level on a used AA battery.

Tests depend on the battery condition, CFL size (Watts), transistor, resistor and capacitor size.

So far all the tests on the CFL barebone for time length end up with something like a night light as far as brightness using this circuit, I'm working my way up to the rest of the Fuji circuit next.

In the meantime I decided to try to lighthing a  "Limelight" or "Indiglo" electroluminescent light and it works quite well as a night light off an AA battery as well, again depending on different capacitor/ resistance configurations but it works

Slowly making my way up to the full Fuji circuit but it's interesting so far.

Regards,
Paul

[Goat]

Hi All

Test #2 B - Barebone Fuji transformer circuit with cap in parallel with 1 K Ohm 20 turn resistor and 2SD2470 transistor.

Well this is interesting, after running the above test with the electroluminescent light it finally gave out at approximately 0.4 VDC.

I disconnected the battery from the circuit and it climbed up to 0.95 VDC.

I tried to light the CFL but it just drained the voltage and wouldn't light.

I placed a small DC motor in parallel with the circuit and it would run after adjusting the capacitor and resistance but then the voltage started going up past 0.95 VDC!

At that point I got the CFL light to start flickering without a drop in voltage.

I adjusted the resistance further and the light got brighter without losing voltage and settling in at 1.11 VDC and driving the small motor, any less resistance and it started dropping the battery voltage without any gain in the CFL intensity.

Well I'm satisfied that I made a gain on the original barebone circuit and will leave it at that till tomorrow when I'll check in to see if the motor is still running while driving the CFL and how much voltage it dropped.

So far though, it seems to be balancing driving the motor off the battery while driving the barebone circuit and lighting the CFL with a recharge effect on the depleted battery

[Goat]

Time to move on past the barebone circuit and start adding components, so far the bigger the CFL the more power consumption and shorter run times (didn't last more than 4 - 5 hours) and at nightlight level lasted over 12 - 24 hours depending on CFL size.

N/A = pins and/or solder points but not connected to circuit (duds).

1. Battery Negative
1(a). Battery Negative solder connection
2. Transistor - Emmiter
3. Transistor - Collector
4. Transistor - Base
5. Battery Positive solder connection
6. Battery Positive
7. Switch connection 1
8. Switch connection 2
9. 220 ohm lead 1
10. 220 ohm lead 2
11. Diode positive (Anode)
12. Diode negative (Cathode)
13. Transformer Pin 4
14. Transformer Pin 1
15. 4.7 M Ohm lead1
16. N/A
17. 4.7 M Ohm lead2
18. N/A
19. Transformer Pin 6 (Locator pin, no wire)
20. Transformer Pin 2
21. Transformer Pin 3
22. Transformer Pin 5
23. N/A
24. Connected to Flash switch lead 1
25. 0.022 micro Farad capacitor lead 1
26. 0.022 micro Farad capacitor lead 2
27. HV pulse coil pin - N/A (no wire)
28. HV pulse coil lead 1
29. Connected to Flash switch lead 2
30. 10 K Ohm lead1
31. 10 K Ohm lead2
32. N/A
33. HV pulse coil lead 2
34. HV pulse coil pin - N/A (no wire)
35. Neon lead 1
36. Neon lead 2
37. Ouput capacitor Positive lead
38. Flash bulb center lead
39. Flash bulb inner lead
40. Ouput capacitor Negative lead
41. N/A
42. Flash bulb outer lead

Note: Flash bulb's third lead goes to top of HV pulse coil (back of circuit not shown).

[gadgetmall]

Hello Goat . All the transformers are 5 wires . I have modded all Fuji camer circuits and all run a cfl for over 12 hours  / i was selling completed units and kits on my www.sunpowerwindpower.com site for the AA version but they are all Gone Now . I do have  several aaa versions that work just as well . You have to realize thta this is Cold electricity and the bulb will not lite up near as blinding bright as on house current but there are ways to make it bright . one way is to warm the bulb with a hair dryer . Also i do not Lie and i am sorry you guys couldn't replicate My Devices . well everyone except Fasto . He got some to work like mine . I have to say the only components i used were the pot and a 68 pf cap . PERIOD!!! The only thing you should be concerned with is the primary circuit in resonance . If you notice the primary winding is 7 or 8 turns of number 26 wire on the outside of the transformer. Ok a secret reviled . you add several more windings to make this 11 and you have increased the output and also decreased the input current . I only have to do this with a few of them . i think the secondary of some of those fuji transformers are damaged from the factory or from being overdriven because the wire they use is like # 42 and will short or break with a breath . while this wont affect the original intention of the circuit to charge a 350 volt cap it wont be enuff to make My mod . I still have two completed AA units build as lamps that i use for a bedside light . run time is 18 hours 20 minuets using a 45 watt 110 volt modified cfl bulb . these units still are oscillating after they stop lighting the cfl and will continue to run a string of Christmas leds for another 8 hours . they are all stock primary windings .other modules need the extra primary windings added to get them to fire .
Conclusion . I just got the touch ! and everyone who bought the units from me can prove what i say . approximately 16 units were sold . recommend you run them with a good Ni-mh battery ion the 2500 Mah range .


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