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Overunity Machines Forum



AC from Joule Thief Secondary/pick-up

Started by jeanna, June 16, 2009, 03:11:33 PM

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0 Members and 6 Guests are viewing this topic.

jeanna

Quote from: Bubba1 on July 28, 2009, 09:21:16 PM
Maybe I'm dense, but I don't get it.  Why does the tip cool before you get it to the sponge?  Do you unplug it?
;D ;D
I almost included this, but the heat is damaging my judgement so I thought I better not.

I have a battery powered soldering iron. My radioshack one got things so hot, that when it stopped working one day I bought a 3 battery one from weller. I was glad to have one not as hot.
but...

Mine has an on button that needs a lot of pressure, and I find that many times when I am busy getting it in the right position the button is no longer depressed and the iron is not hot. I should replace it, but I really like being able to solder anywhere.

Thanks for your help.
It is very hot day today and that may have added to the success, but i was very careful to sponge the tip after each use and I am now thinking I should get another tip so I can use it right. It seems only the point of the tip gets hot anymore.

Anyway thanks .
I think you have turned my focus to the right direction..

jeanna

jeanna

Quote from: nievesoliveras on July 28, 2009, 09:51:00 PM
Lady @jeanna you were right.
The collector coil had more turns than the pickup coil and that was the problem.
I could light just one led with the 6 turns pickup coil, but that is an improvement, because, I could light nothing before I switched the base and collector coils.

Thank you!

Jesus
yeay!!

You know jesus, The way you wind a coil is pretty specific to the toroid.
There are some principles that work for all of them, but there are times when it all gets reversed.
I have made many coils on many different cores. I have a few I like a lot. The medium 5/$1 is not really one of my favorites. But Altrez and ist and hazens and more have used them to make great results.

I am very happy you have made this work.

What I would do now, is add some turns to the side with 2 and when that is turning on both leds easily and brightly, remove some from the Base coil.

Did I say the numbers that worked for me?
6T,6T or 5T,6T worked and the resistor at the base was close to 450 ohm. If you have a 1k pot, that is great. If not, try a few important numbers like 1k, 470, 220 ohm at the base resistor.

If you do not have a scope to tell you how it is doing, you can put a 33ohm resistor temporarily in series at the battery. Because it is so choked down, you will be able to see minor improvements in brightness with your eyes. When you get a good brightness, then remove that 33 ohm resistor.

To really know what you have made, you can make a full bridge rectifier and put the 2 secondary wires through that, and also you must add another single diode for each side after it comes out of the bridge. Collect it in a cap then measure how much you collected. This is good to do with one of those camera flash caps.

OK for now,

jeanna

jeanna

Hi everybody,

I have made some progress with my split secondary.
I found that I could make a tank circuit with a 100pF cap in parallel with the 3 leds and one 220uH inductor as long as there was another 220uH inductor in series with all of that.

The lights were as bright as the usual 10 leds in their S1 part of this multiple parallels circuit.

Then, I had the other leg of the split with nothing else to do, so I made another circuit with it and 2 leds in series.
The leds are brighter than the rest of the mob, so I know I can add one more somehow. It will probably take another cap and 220uH inductor.

That will have to wait. I am out of stock for the moment!  8)

Ah, this has felt like a long time since the last step.

There are some things to notice.
The frequency is different on the S1 and the S2. But the frequency and voltage are all inseparable on the S2 so far.

The figures on the drawing are the values when using the protection resistor.
Without this 33 ohm resistor at the battery, the voltages and frequencies are all different.
They are:

S1 circuit
10 leds in series:
59-63volts
52.6Khz

S2 circuit
2 leds plus 3 leds each in series
25v-31v
285Khz

BTW every time I take a measurement on this circuit (from the beginning) I have left all the lights on. This normally takes a lot of voltage away from the reading, so I want to mention that. I think this is all pretty impressive.


here is a drawing. (As before, all the new additions or changes are in red.)

jeanna

jeanna

Here is part 1 video explanation of this.
For this time it is just showing the basic joule thief.
But, more will follow.
:D

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y4IMgDRGpHE

jeanna

jeanna