Selfrunning Free Energy devices up to 5 KW from Tariel Kapanadze

[romerouk]

Here is my first attempt, so don't laugh  . I used a large variac on the 120vac input to the MOT (not shown). I had to work in the basement indoors so I used a copper water pipe feed for one ground and an iron floor drain pipe that leads outside & underground for the second. The spark gap is a non resistor sparkplug with a vice grip for a heat sink. The lamp is a 200watt 120 volt. I used the DC circuit with a small HV cap.
First results:
MOT gets very warm and the 20amp mains A trips after 15 seconds of operation. Spark gap is electric blue, not violet. Please be careful with this circuit the voltages present are indeed dangerous.

Dave

Hi,
one thing I found is that you need both earth connections directly to the ground and about 10m distance. I didn't try longer distance as I don't have more lenght in the garden.In my first attempt I had one earth was comming from the water supply and the other one from a copper pipe I fixed in the ground.That showed me 2.3 amps for 500w load, then I have fixed another copper pipe in the ground at 10 m distance and I got about 1.6a for 900w load.MOT stays just a little bit warm in my case, maybe you have a defective MOT,run it without anything connected to see if it still gets hot, check capacitor value, if it is too high might create the problems you have.Not recommended to start the device inside the house as it will interfere with all electrical equipment, it does in my case, I have almost destroyed the tv, running the device in the garden.It is a lot of radio waves generated by the device and this is another problem at the moment.Turn off all electrical appliances in the house while testing.

Success all!

[romerouk]

http://peswiki.com is down... maybe MIB???   

[retrod]

Increase your load!

I just tried an additional load. Two lamps instead of the one. The lamps were both about half lit. The MOT started to smoke so I shut it down. I guess the two ground paths need a large seperation. I have a 200ft iron pipe water well, so that might be a good outside ground #1.

[romerouk]

Hello

Can I ask you how did you measured the 900 watt output?

I didn't measure the output.I know I have 900w load and the brightness looks  normal, maybe a bit more than normal.I tried to measure but all my multimeters are showing from 300v up.I need an analog meter to measure properly.

[bolt]

Here is my first attempt, so don't laugh  . I used a large variac on the 120vac input to the MOT (not shown). I had to work in the basement indoors so I used a copper water pipe feed for one ground and an iron floor drain pipe that leads outside & underground for the second. The spark gap is a non resistor sparkplug with a vice grip for a heat sink. The lamp is a 200watt 120 volt. I used the DC circuit with a small HV cap.
First results:
MOT gets very warm and the 20amp mains circuit breaker trips after 15 seconds of operation. Spark gap is electric blue, not violet. Please be careful with this circuit the voltages present are indeed dangerous.

Dave

First always run a MOT with no secondary connections it should run cold and normal. This is to make sure your MOT is actually working properly.  It happens that the secondary windings burn out short in many scrapped MOTs!!


Are you using that microwave capacitor with your spark gap? Thats about 1.5uF and is fitted with quite a fast discharge bleed resistor and is pushing too much power through the spark gap. You need something like 0.01uf to 0.1uF rated 5Kv.  Also all the replicators will see MUCH reduced current if you fit a ballast using another MOT in series with this one and/OR small toroidal 240v 12 0 12 etc 50-100VA  in series with HT and spark gap. Short out secondary winding and wire across primary increases inductance.

Also add series and parallel motor run caps into supply i/p to correct power factor will half the current. These are things the replicators should be working on now to make vast improvements to this system.