Selfrunning Free Energy devices up to 5 KW from Tariel Kapanadze

[flathunter]

Hello,

I see few cannot hold their A and go wildy theorizing in an effort to connect every FE in a single principle. We do not need theories right now. We need confirmation and experimentation.

@Dole, flathunter,

In standard Tesla coil spark-discharge setups of an NST (or ignition coil) charging a cap which is discharged disruptively via a spark-gap:
* to a coil and loads (bulbs) or
* to a coil that is inductivelly coupled (with various degrees of coupling coefficient) to another coil which is connected to a load (with or without resonance between them) or
* to a Tesla coil secondary that this is again coupled inductively to another coil with loads,

in all above situations not a single time OU has been observed. Efficiency ranges form 80% 1-2 case to 50-40% third case.

What i am saying is that, for the time being stick to Naudin/ROmerouk suggestions, using this weird coil setup and TWO grounds physically seperated and spaced far apart.

.

I agree 100% - builds first, theories later.

I also agree that having 2 seperate grounds as far away from each other as possible is essential - still trying to get mine to a greater distance...need to buy more wire and try again tonight.

I have some new results to report

a)  with NST I tried lighting my 2 40W bulbs WITHOUT the iron bar that runs through my PVC pipe.  Made no difference whatsoever - the lamps came on as before with one end of my NST output running strainght into a pipe in the garden.  Perhaps this is because the iron bar im using in my PVC pipe is rubbish compared to what romerouk is using - thick stranded cable...will try and buy some on monday and compare the two.

b)  Got my 30 KV power supply WORKING (fed from a 12V 7AH battery) but not for filament bulbs (not yet anyway.. )....just for CFLs.  I can get about 5 CFLs lit up when i use this HV power supply.......minus can just go straight to ground, or through PVC pipe first via iron bar - seems to work a bit better with the iron bar with this P.Supply.  Plus goes through a doorknob cap, then on to spark gap, and then into my Kapanadze coil, then into the load (CFLs), and then into the second ground......
I was really pleased to see my 12 V battery lighting the CFLs.  Nonetheless, I agree with what others have said here....I know its pretty easy to get a CFL to light with a JThief (even though i still havent succeeded here...still cant find a disposable fuji!!!), so i shouldnt be too surprised that i can get several to light with a 12V battery.  No OU, but i can feel it coming 

N:B  The greater the distance between my spark gap electrodes, the brighter the lights.......

Photos and vids coming soon when i buy some new batteries for my camera.

One other thing - when i tried turning off my NST it would continue to hum after switching off.  No spark, no power, but the transformer would continue to hum until i unplugged it from the mains (the transformer is grounded to the mains)....has anyone else had something similar with their transformer??  I thought it was very strange, but perhaps there is a perfectly reasonable explanation???

[vrand]

I agree 100% - builds first, theories later.

I also agree that having 2 seperate grounds as far away from each other as possible is essential - still trying to get mine to a greater distance...need to buy more wire and try again tonight.

I have some new results to report

a)  with NST I tried lighting my 2 40W bulbs WITHOUT the iron bar that runs through my PVC pipe.  Made no difference whatsoever - the lamps came on as before with one end of my NST output running strainght into a pipe in the garden.  Perhaps this is because the iron bar im using in my PVC pipe is rubbish compared to what romerouk is using - thick stranded cable...will try and buy some on monday and compare the two.

b)  Got my 30 KV power supply WORKING (fed from a 12V 7AH battery) but not for filament bulbs (not yet anyway.. )....just for CFLs.  I can get about 5 CFLs lit up when i use this HV power supply.......minus can just go straight to ground, or through PVC pipe first via iron bar - seems to work a bit better with the iron bar with this P.Supply.  Plus goes through a doorknob cap, then on to spark gap, and then into my Kapanadze coil, then into the load (CFLs), and then into the second ground......
I was really pleased to see my 12 V battery lighting the CFLs.  Nonetheless, I agree with what others have said here....I know its pretty easy to get a CFL to light with a JThief (even though i still havent succeeded here...still cant find a disposable fuji!!!), so i shouldnt be too surprised that i can get several to light with a 12V battery.  No OU, but i can feel it coming 

N:B  The greater the distance between my spark gap electrodes, the brighter the lights.......

Photos and vids coming soon when i buy some new batteries for my camera.

Thank you for the update   

Interesting observation on the spark gap. It makes sense maybe that with a wider gap the voltage would increase, that then made the CFL's light up brighter.

Yea, need to get that ground wiring setup so as to make comparisons with other setups in apples to apples.

Interesting on the iron rod working in one mode but not the other.

Thanks, Mike

[broli]

It's good that you bring the spark gap up. Indeed a larger gap means higher voltage before it breaks down, a higher voltage is then equal to a higher current surge which might bang the earth harder for more power. So an adjustable spark gap is a bonus during operation. Just make sure you are wearing rubber gloves  .

[flathunter]

It's good that you bring the spark A up. Indeed a larger gap means higher voltage before it breaks down, a higher voltage is then equal to a higher current surge which might bang the earth harder for more power. So an adjustable spark gap is a bonus during operation. Just make sure you are wearing rubber gloves  .

I cant tell you how many times I almost received the full blast of my doorknob cap from fiddling with the spark gap - fortunately ive already taken a few shocks from my polypropylene cap after running my NST, and this has burned the following rule into my brain - always discharge before playing with any part of the circuit!!!!!

[broli]

I cant tell you how many times I almost received the full blast of my doorknob cap from fiddling with the spark gap - fortunately ive already taken a few shocks from my polypropylene cap after running my NST, and this has burned the following rule into my brain - always discharge before playing with any part of the circuit!!!!!

Or were heavy duty rubber cleaning gloves with a wire strapped around it going to ground. There's no excuse for not taking small precautions and working unprotected like a fool.