Selfrunning Free Energy devices up to 5 KW from Tariel Kapanadze

[dllabarre]

No, just the opposite.  You want the meridian n/s NOT magnetic.  Well, at least you do in the earth battery set-ups.  What effect, if any, this alignment might have with these devices here is anyone's guess.

Bill       

I want what's correct for Earth batteries to use on my Kapagen to start with.  Then move things around to determine if there is any impact on the lights or the i/p. 

If I think of the Earth as a battery then I would connect my + wire to the + terminal of the Earth battery which is North correct?

Thanks,
DonL

[Pirate88179]

I want what's correct for Earth batteries to use on my Kapagen to start with.  Then move things around to determine if there is any impact on the lights or the i/p. 

If I think of the Earth as a battery then I would connect my + wire to the + terminal of the Earth battery which is North correct?

Thanks,
DonL

Yes, that would be correct.  Just not the north your compass points to.  That can be off many, many degrees depending upon your position on the planet.

Bill

[Pirate88179]

Using no-script stops many site functioning properly. Many video sites wont work if script is blocked.

Better to use firefox with Ad-Block Plus plugin i use for years and blocks 99% of the ads from all websites. Pages load 10 times faster and remain clean! I dont know what it would be like to go back to a screen full of adverts must be a horrid experience.

Yes, I use ad block also and have for three years.  You are correct about no-script blocking certain things you might want but, it learns and you can tell it once and it remembers.  (Like Zone Alarm firewall, same thing)

I got all these tips from folks on here 3 years ago and I will never use, or miss, IE ever again.  I love learning stuff from this site.  Great bunch of smart guys over here for sure.

Bill

[exnihiloest]

...
The kill-a-watt meter I used acted "weird" when it was within 5 feet of my Kapagen.  Once I moved it 10 feet away it worked fine.  I then moved it 25 feet away just to be sure.

But people still don't believe....   

I'll try measuring the amps using the bridge method.
How do you want me to measure the Mains volts?

My amp/volt meter can handle 20 amps and 1000 volts.

DonL

There is still possibilities of false measures for the following reasons:
- HF may propagate on your 25 feet line and create nodes and antinodes along the line, depending on the frequencies. If the power meter is positionned at bad places, it can be jammed. A HF filter should be a better solution than extending the line length.
- generally one of the two wires from the mains plug is at a potential near the ground, and the other one is at the full potential (120 or 220/230 v depending on your location). It follows that a current could flow directly from the "hot" wire to the ground. In this case, the current is not balanced in the two wires, and this could disturb the power measurement. Normally this issue is detected by the GFCI that switches off the current. Nevertheless if you would have no GFCI or if the GFCI was also blocked by HF currents, this problem could occur.
The primary of the MOT is isolated from the rest of the circuit and thus prevents a current from the hot wire to the ground. But by capacitive coupling at HF frequencies, or due to an isolation problem, this is not to be discarded.
- the "kill-a-watt meter" seems to be as basic and not accurate as the "energy check 3000" from JL Naudin
- there is surely other possibilities...

A single measurement device and a single measurement method is far from being enough when it is question of claiming such amazing thing as "more power out than in".

[baroutologos]

Do you mean to use a FWBR on one line of the Mains and measure the DC terminals like what was posted earlier?  Can I measure Amps and Volts this way?

Sorry for the detail questions but I want to make sure I get it right.

Thanks,
Don

Hey Don,

Perhaps in extensive fool-proof measurement techniques, and in order to be damn sure, we hook-off every piece of equipment from mains and the whole device is runned by a battery of known capacity. If the device would not stop or stop at a known time period, we can calculate input effectively.

But this requires, a huge battery for the MOT, say some 1000 Ah+, an Strong inverter etc.
Just do the FWBR + analogue DC ampmeter and we have a decent idea of the amperage in.
Voltage is assumed the MAX grid can provide. 230 or 120 volts.

This is a good enough method for having a valid idea. +- few percent does not make any huge difference.