Selfrunning Free Energy devices up to 5 KW from Tariel Kapanadze

[znel]

[A author=JuJu link=topic=7679.msg247148#msg247148 date=1277866225]
if we are in a mood of reducing consumption, why not to reduce the input to 1W... then the extra 1watt FE should reveal himself!

sory, just playing arround!
[/quote]

Here is an example of 2 resonant tank circuits driving a light with zero input.   Actually it probably wasn't zero input but it was lower than my meter could physically read.   The bulb is a 6 volt flashlight bulb with approximately 125ma running through it.   Once the 2 tanks are resonant the light comes on and the input current drops to near zero.  Once resonance is achieved all that is required from the input is a voltage signal.  A very well made video by Armegdn03 shows how this works, if you haven't already seen it... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kQdcwDCBoNY

[void109]

Hi guys,

I finally got around to trying my implementation of the kapagen/kapanadze setup.  Here's my brain dump of the unsuccessful attempt, dont know if any of this will be useful to anyone.

Mains -> Watt Meter -> Variac (0-130V, 10A) -> Kapagen

When I wound the primary (and I used the turns for primary and secondary specified in Naudin's schematic), I accidentally wound it CCW, I went ahead and left it as it was and simply sound the secondary CW - I didnt figure the orientation would matter...

In the Kapagen circuit, I have a 15A breaker between the ground to the transformer and the loop of wire that travels through the PVC pipe w/ copper rod.

I used welders tungsten rods for the SG.  I noted that the positive side turned black and got very hot, and the negative side turned greenish (oxidation?).  If I just used the negative w/ tungsten and the positive with copper (the mount), it ran cooler.

I used copper tubes driven 10" or so in the ground for the two primary Kapagen grounds.

I never saw more than 10 volts or so measured across the load. (I risked my DMM).

I am using a 1/2" diameter copper tube for the core of the PVC (as well as the ground wire running the length and back per Naudin's schematic).

I did NOT use a steel plate, I put a ground stake in front of the Kapagen and wired it to the transformer housing instead.  I tried it both with it inserted into ground and laying on the surface.  It never sparked (although the other two grounds did when laying on the grass surface).

I have four 500W halogen bulbs and two 300W halogen bulbs.  I tried it with them in series, adding one at a time.

I tried moving the two grounds to various locations with no observable difference in output.

The MO capacitor oven already had a HV diode wired to ground.  I left it on the cap.  The cap was also only .7uF.

The MOT will draw a full 10A even if the SG is seperated and cant fire.

Summary

I was never able to read much voltage across the load, trying many, many permutations of: grounds placement, spark gap width, load.  For the majority of the tests I did not use the mains ground (from what I had read, I had the impression I wouldn't want to use it?).  Toward the end, before I ran out of my last 10A fuse for my variac, I tried it with the house mains ground attached to the transformer housing as well - saw no change.

The sparks were bright white, I was expecting purple.   Also noticed that it takes a higher voltage to initiate a spark gap than it does to maintain it.  Like it has some function like hysteresis.

I'm going to try getting 8 foot long house grounds they use in construction and driving them deep for an assured solid ground next.  Also going to look into what using different materials for electrodes can do for me, as well as detach the SG from the setup so I can try it in various positions around the Kapagen.

[JuJu]

@dragon, thank you very much!

@void from what i have read the guys saying, is the HF/RF involved in the output, because of the SG, etc will interfere with your meter and will not show correct readings!

is your meter able to read High Freqyency?

hugs

[JuJu]

thank you for taking the doubt of the coil, since no one believed me...

one more proof that you can light 1800W of lights fully bright, with 1043W/785W input using just the MOT... , with only 58% / 44% of each lamp rated input!

that make us ask, Is the MOT free energy? 

I ran my first test on my Kapagen replication.

I have a "kill-a-watt" power meter that I put in-line 30 feet before the Kapagen between extension cords to measure Watts, volts and amps.

1) tested 18 * 100 watt bulbs connected to MOT directly. 1043Watts. Bulbs fully bright
2) add MO capacitor.  785Watts.  Bulbs still fully bright.
3) add SG and 15kv Diode. 956Watts. Bulbs NOT fully bright.

Next step add coil and ground connections...


Don

[darkspeed]

The MOT will draw a full 10A even if the SG is seperated and cant fire.

Sounds like bad mot or bad cap or wired wrong..

You should not have a 10a load with the secondary open - unless you have a bad cap shorted across it?