Selfrunning Free Energy devices up to 5 KW from Tariel Kapanadze

[Kator01]

Hi verpies,

can you please specify more in detail : what is this "glass foil" and where to buy it ?

thank you

Kator01

Mica sheets are excellent dielectrics for capacitors. Glass foil is too because of the high breakdown voltage, if its bend-radius is not too small. I use 0.05mm glass foil for my HV capacitors.

The Royer oscillator circuit can be tuned with C1 and a little with L1. For more control use TL494.

[From other Planet]

@Delamorto:

Thank you very much for sharing your device with us, i believe u found something real.

My first tests are very impressive for me. But my transistors burn quickly, only short testing periods. Probably because I use 2 12 Volt Pb Batteries in series. =24 Volt. Actually use earlier in this thread suggested MJE15030 Transistor. Thanks for tip!
Very important: Last one I used, burnt, gave bad results. Actual is good, very possible I'm OU but don't wanna make wrong claims. Both same transistor type, one worked bad, the one now works good. Afraid it will burn soon.
Light gets very bright now and right until now i didn't make much fine tuning but variable cap is must-have i think.
I have 2 different ferrites placed in middle, bottom one is very long, they have distance of perhaps 5mm. No copper tube in middle but metall foil tape.
Bad thing I recognized, was large amounts of ozone production, seems also to depend on tuning.
Good thing, all electronics around stay normal, when i play with caduceus coil everything goes crazy

I cant believe it works that good, THIS THING iS WORHT IT TO BE BUILD
Wesley Team devices are also, this is perhaps like beginner version 
And this Mini-Tesla Coil is really cute^^

Kind regards,
main

[xenomorphlabs]

@Delamorto:

Thank you very much for sharing your device with us, i believe u found something real.

My first tests are very impressive for me. But my transistors burn quickly, only short testing periods. Probably because I use 2 12 Volt Pb Batteries in series. =24 Volt. Actually use earlier in this thread suggested MJE15030 Transistor. Thanks for tip!
Very important: Last one I used, burnt, gave bad results. Actual is good, very possible I'm OU but don't wanna make wrong claims. Both same transistor type, one worked bad, the one now works good. Afraid it will burn soon.
Light gets very bright now and right until now i didn't make much fine tuning but variable cap is must-have i think.
I have 2 different ferrites placed in middle, bottom one is very long, they have distance of perhaps 5mm. No copper tube in middle but metall foil tape.
Bad thing I recognized, was large amounts of ozone production, seems also to depend on tuning.
Good thing, all electronics around stay normal, when i play with caduceus coil everything goes crazy

I cant believe it works that good, THIS THING iS WORHT IT TO BE BUILD
Wesley Team devices are also, this is perhaps like beginner version 
And this Mini-Tesla Coil is really cute^^

Kind regards,
main

Hmm, i use the same transistor and none burnt. You do have it on a heatsink don't you?
In addition you could take a PC-fan and direct it right onto the transistor for additional cooling.
Very unlikely that it will then still burn.
Would it be possible to specify how your secondary coil is made?
Wire diameter and maybe measure the length of the whole winding, so one could
estimate the turn count?
Ah and did you approximately use the same coil dimensions as Delamorto?
Thanks

[znel]

After building Delamorto's kacher with fair but not what I would call overwhelming results, I started looking into the bulbs being used.   I've noticed in a lot of demos  the 220 volt 60 watt bulb as a representation of work being done.   Since  I don't have any 220v bulbs I started calculating the 120 volt equivilant....

60 watt / 220 = .2727 amp = 806 ohms

60 watt/ 120 =  .5 amp = 240 ohms

The equivalent bulb in the US would be the 120 volt 15 watt bulb with around 960 ohms.   I can light a 15 watt 120 volt bulb very brightly with the kacher, which I've been doing with various kachers over the years.   It would seem that this would be a mental illusion between seeing the 15 watt rating or a 60 watt rating - we assume the power rating of the bulb to be a determined value - which it's not.      So the next step will need to be to determine the voltage flowing through the bulb to determine the actual output of the device.   If in fact there is 220 volts across the terminals of the bulb then the 15 watt bulb could actually be closer to the 60 watt value or we are only putting 15 watts through the bulb at 120 volts.....   



I attempted to scope the voltage across the bulb but when the ground is added it kills the resonance.   Any idea's on how to measure the voltage across the bulb?

[xenomorphlabs]

I attempted to scope the voltage across the bulb but when the ground is added it kills the resonance.   Any idea's on how to measure the voltage across the bulb?

That's a good question. Just for a laugh i took an old multimeter and actually went ahead and measured the voltage across the bulb, but as to be expected it showed 0.4 Volts, which has to be interpreted as a faulty measurement at that frequencies.
Maybe you could hang a bridge rectifier across the bulb and try to scope the rectified DC value on the DC side.
Maybe that way the resonance doesn't get killed when you hook the probe ground up. Just a thought, there is certainly better methods.