Earth Electrical Energy Datalogging Experiments

[tishatang]

@MW383
Thanks for cleaning up my drawing.  I realized late last night that I made a mistake and the parallel circuit won't work without the addition of blocking diodes.  It will work like it is for an antennae and ground as shown.  I am used to thinking radio.  What we need to do is put a diode on the positive rod pointing towards the tank circuit.  When can also put a diode on the negative rod pointing towards the tank circuit.  This will isolate the circuit so it can freewheel and do its thing.  Without the diode, any high voltage would simply bleed off into ground which is at a low potential.  This will let currents in but not out. 

@electric me
I get your photo now.  I was missing some java plug-in or something.  Your cotton winding machine looks like a miniature version of the big cable winding machines they use to wind the long support cables for suspension bridges.

@all
Here are some helpful hints re construction of the   EB.  Your best friend will be the local building supply, or maybe a local building construction company.  For the core, you want large J bolts they use to put into concrete forms.  They are in the form of large J.  They come from about 8 inches in length to maybe 16 inches in length.  They are black iron, no plating, a thin coat of oil to prevent rusting.  You should be able to get them up to at least 5/8 in diameter.  They have a long thread on one end and the nuts and washer for them should be laying in a bin next to them.  They might have some in the shape of an L, saving the need to hacksaw off the little part of the J, to make it an L shape.  The L with a washer on one end, and a washer and nut on the other end and you have your core.  May not be the most mild of iron?  Test it with a steel file.  You can file a mark easy on mild iron.  Put file marks on various pieces of old metal around your shop and get the feel for relative hardness.  When you go to the bldg supply, make a small mark on the L bolt to judge its relative hardness.  If it seems hard, you can heat it to red with an acetylene torch in the hopes it will make it softer.  This will also remove any residual magnetism from the mfg process of making the bolts.

In the same dept there will be small rolls of very soft iron wire.  This is used for tying rebar together.  Ask some one where the rebar tying wire is.  This is the perfect wire for making the iron coil.

It is important to have wood ends and natural insulation between the bolt core and the first winding, and between every layer of coils.  You can use fiberglass cloth and resin if want.  I will explain all of this more thoroughly later.  I believe serendipity played a role with Stubblefield, the patent office and his investors to end up with what he did. 

If you could find a small cardboard tube that your core bolt can slide into, would help for experiments but not necessary.  That way, after assembly of the coils, you can slide the bolt in partway.  This will change the inductance value of the coils, thereby giving you the ability to tune to a wide band of frequencies.

Hope all this helps.
tishatang

[electricme]

@all,

A little off topic, but I think I should present a link to some disturbing tidings.
I just received this email, which is an excellent source of information.

If people in America are alone in thinking their gov will act in a traitorous way, don't worry, our very own Australian gov is also heading down the same sorry path, click on this link to read for yourselves, how we are all going to be in this mess together.
Sinage day is in December this year folks

http://www.moriah.com.au/textarchive/copenhagen-2009.htm

I think there might be about 45 days of freedom as we all know it before the poison pen pushers sign away our freedoms.
They might try and control us, but they carnt control our spirit


jim

[Pirate88179]

@all,

I have missgiveings to making my above suggestion. 
Bundling many strands of iron wire together, as the center iron, to make a stubblefield coil.

I have been thinking about this since I posted the above, and have decided to debunk my own recomendation, hmmmm you say.

My reasons for this are a genuine concern about the stability of the whole stubblefield coil assembly, during its construction phase.

Many strands of iron wire will also allow some "flex" between the iron strands, it could not be avoided, unless there was some process where it could be overcome in some manner then mabe it could be utilised later on. (I'm thing about a workaround for this).

What would occur is the flex of the iron strands as one turns the bifilar wire (Copper and Iron) over the bundled iron strands, we need to keep all the turns neat and tidy in this critical process, failing to do so will allow previous turns to drop downwards between previous turns, we dont need this.
As the bifilar wires are placed onto the former, the stresses will build, the flex becomes worse gradually until the geometery of the coil would suffer.

So I recomend no one tries the many strands of iron wire procedure, until we know more about it.

jim 

@Bill
Here is a circuit I drew up for you to have a play around with, sometimes we need to reduce a voltage to match the input voltage of a device, it could be anything. Utilising a LM317 adjustable voltage regulator and a handful of caps, and 1 resisror and a variable resistor we can achieve this.

This item can drive a low current device, even recharge a set of ni-cad cells, there is built in current protection on the LM317 adjustable regulator.

How it works,
up to 30 volts can be fed into the circuit, the caps filter out any ripples that might cause a problem to the item being used with it, the regulator (LM317) does not allow any higher voltage to pass, unless the "5 K ohm pot" is set to allow it to appear on the output leg of the IC.
If you need, say for instance, 3.7 volts on the output, 560ohms or slightly higher would do. Soldering that resistor in circuit "crow bars" the output to that voltage, no matter how high the voltage you feed into it.
Put a heat sink on the LM317 to keep heat to a safe level, as the excess voltage has to be sent somewhere, so it is designed to get red of the waist as heat.

1670 = main circuit, plenty of these on the internet.
1666 = where I got this one from

I have a habbit of buying heeps of electronic KITTs from JAYCAR electronics, I have about 10 waiting to put together.

jim

Jim:

Thank you my friend.  When I get some time and don't have this deadline I am under, I will have a go at this.  This could be a very useful thing for me, as you well know.

I really appreciate this.

Bill

[electricme]

In Prof Lewin's wonderful physics class, he explains about the process of heating and hitting iron to remove its magnetic polarity.

jeanna

Very interresting this topic, my Dad said to me 50 odd years ago, if you want to magnetise a iron bar, grab it and strike a rock very hard with it, and it will become magnetised.
So I did do this, and it worked, before it wouldn't hold a paper clip, after wards it did.

jim

[electricme]

@All,
If people want to make an iron core with lots of short lengths of iron wire, then go for it.
I just didn't know if there was a way to stiffen the wire with a glue/hardener etc.

If it works better than a steel bolt, no worries.

jim