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Earth Electrical Energy Datalogging Experiments

Started by Pirate88179, July 14, 2009, 09:40:58 PM

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Pirate88179

@ freepow:

Jim is correct about the connections to the supercap.  I have a slightly different take on it though.  My EER output is usually about 1.9 volts and I can charge up my 2.7 volt, 650 F supercap fully.  No diodes are used in my set-up, just plus to plus and minus to minus.

After seeing the spikes on my scope (Thanks again to Jim for all of his help with that) I figure that those spike are much higher than my 1.9 volts output but the cap just sees that as extra electrical "pressure" and stores it accordingly.  When my cap gets filled higher than my EER output, why the energy does not flow back into the ground, I have no idea at all.  Maybe, if I did use a diode, I would get higher volts faster?  I don't know.

Just a word about your supercap.  It is not like a battery when charging...with a 12 volt battery you want to hit it with like 15 volts or so when charging, these caps will explode violently if more volts than they are rated for are fed into them.  So, be careful.  Search Youtube and you can see videos of these supercaps exploding...they throw metal shrapnel everywhere so take proper precautions.

If you are getting the spikes like the rest of us out of your system, I would just try leaving it hooked up for a while the way you have it and, check the voltage in your cap every few hours.  My guess is that, while you may not get it filled to the 5.5 volt level, you will have more volts in your cap than your system puts out...maybe like 30% more or so.  Remember, the best thing about these caps is that they store mA's and, in the case of my big cap, amps!  So you will have very usable power in that supercap when charged.  Even if you just charge it to 1.5 volts, you can run a JT off of it for a long, long time and power leds for free like I have been doing.

Let us know how you make out and, be careful.

Bill
See the Joule thief Circuit Diagrams, etc. topic here:
http://www.overunity.com/index.php?topic=6942.0;topicseen

tishatang

@All
Had an early winter snowstorm roll through here in N. China.  Really cold, stayed in bed under blankets.  Today, sun out and no wind.  But still cold, as I write this I am wearing double sweaters, long underwear and sitting in front of electric space heater.  Lots of people sick, but me and my wife are fine.

@MW383
Sorry, I didn't mean to sound judgmental.  Actually we need the battery action to supply basic voltage of the circuit before we can use resonance.  So, anything to raise this voltage the better.  A good pulse generator is a useful tool.  Can be used here once we have a natural res freq of our battery setup.  Feeding backwards with the pulse generator can charge the surrounding area.

@Jim
Bill is right about grounding the primary.  Ground one lead of the primary of the MOT to a rod.  The other lead, you have three choices. 

First, connect the other lead to another rod in the ground.  Try and use the rods you got the good signal you posted a while back for comparison.  This will energize the primary and induce the secondary.  Hook the scope to the secondary inside and see what you get.  Transformer action should amplify the voltage and the iron core should filter out some hash for cleaner signal.

Second, instead of other end of primary going to another rod, connect it in series to a cap, not a big one like a super cap.  Use your var air tuning cap if you have one.  The other end of the cap, connect to the other ground rod.  Now you have a series res circuit that will multiply the amps at the resonant freq.  Here, you can substitute various fixed caps you happen to have on time in lieu of a var air cap.  This will change the res freq lower the bigger the cap.   Change different size caps until get a good signal on scope.  Or sweep the var air cap for a clean signal on the scope.  If you cannot get a clean signal, then the res freq of the circuit is not in harmony with an earth signal.  If you do not have a var cap, then make a variable inductor and connecting it in series to the primary lead coming out of the ground.  Make this by cutting the end off a roll of wire you buy at the auto parts store.  Splay it out as a loose roll on a broomstick.  You vary the inductance by stretching it out to fine tune.  This is what Stubblefield did.

Third,  If you have a aerial, you can connect the lead to it.  See what you get on the scope.  Then you can connect a cap from the primary lead to the aerial form a parallel res circuit.  You can substutute caps to lower or raise freq.  Var air cap will help here.  This will amplify volts.  Once you get resonance, check with the scope what you have on the secondary coil.  Should have good clean hi volt signal.  If you do not have an aerial, you can connect to the second rod, but you will have to use diodes as I explained earlier.  Use germanium if you have them.

Here is photo of series second option.  It is the most simple res circuit.  Use scope and play with caps to find good signal on scope.  Note strength and freq. Then check secondary and see what you have?  There should be more than one good freq that is good when that freq comes into res with our circuit.  It would be a good idea to build or buy a capacitor substitution box.  That way you can instantly switch freq bands.

freepow

@ All

I have made an EER (EB) like Jim's (thanks to Jim), but I used a piece of thick steel gal wire for -
I have worked out a way to place it in the ground so I can still recieve magnectic waves etc.
And if something go's wrong with the EER, you can just pull it out of it's slot, I will be making several of these to get mA's and volts, I included photo's of what I did... Enjoy !
Oh, by the way I have made 4 of these of same size - without the pvc and tested each one, and the other 3 measured as follows... 1st 1.4-2.0 mA, 2nd 1.4-2.0 mA, 3rd 1.4-2.0 mA,
the 4th was the best at around 3.0 mA, the one in the photo was the lowest at 1.4 mA, these EER's will be easy to get to, what does everyone think of this PVC slot idea ????
The first two photo's are of where I live 40-50 km inland off East coast NSW, Australia.

freepow

Two more photo's of DMM measuring EER at  1.43 mA, 0.712 vdc, as I said my best one is as high as 3 mA,
also the dirt inside the copper tube is straight out of the ground, very little moisture.

When I hooked up the 4 in series ( I think it's series ), I got 7-10 mA's, that should be able to charge a cap then run JT off the cap !
I am going to make an array of 5x4 or 10x4 of these battery's in their slots, they should still recieve other earth energy too, ( because their still in the earth ), well I hope that it will still pick up those waves of energy...

jeanna

That is a beautiful spot you have there freepow.
Your pvc looks clean. It seems to be working, I guess too. Good stuff.

I will smile when you send a pic of a led coming from that set up. I guess it will take a little while to charge up?

@tishatang.
I bought a wall wart last summer. It was not a mot, but a wall transformer that changed the 110v to 5v
I hooked it up to raise rather than lower it, of course.
It seemed no matter what I did the difference was very little.
It is cold here too, but because it is the maritime we sometimes get a lot of mild temperatures, and I could try this again.

The results are probably on this thread somewhere in july or august, but my memory is that the the transformer only increased the output when I hooked it up in series from the ground to the scope.
As a transformer it seemed to not work at all. It should have given me a 20 fold increase, but it never did.

I hope you and your wife stay well,

jeanna