Earth Electrical Energy Datalogging Experiments

[electricme]

@all

I have been having a prob with my computer the last two days.
I have a desktop, but cannot open any programs except for 1 antivirus (which is scanning my PC at the moment) and defrag, I believe it is a DOS attack, (Denial Of Services).

I was lucky yesterday, I managed to get it running and thought I had fixed the problem, obviously I hadent.
I had to get to another PC 50 klm away to get some help for it and took the opertunity to download and print some of my PMs and forum pages, so I can keep abrest of whats hapenning here.
but I will be off air until my home PC is OK.
So unless I can get it back on air, I will be off air so to speak for at least 1 week, groan.

I was hopeing to put an effort into my stubblefield winding maching today, but unforseen events took me a different parth.

@tishatang,
I took a look at my post of the tuner capacitor I made, it comes up here OK on this PC.
Must be something at your end, the image is a standard .JPG and should show up for you.

A bit of feedback for you, your pencil crt drawings look lovely here, well done.

All this you are presenting is making sence, well done sir.

@mw383,
Thanks for the PMs, I will answer them when I get the DOS off my PC.

OK one more printout to go and I have to head off home.

Oh yes, I had run out of welding electrodes, got some more today in town, man, 2.5mm electrodes differ in price per packet, anywhere from $36.00 - $85 a packet, some real greed at work.

Hooroo all
jim

Bill, (Pirate) I will get on the blower to you, usual time.

[IotaYodi]

From what Ive read old coat hangers are soft iron. You could bundle those. 
You could also try a microwave oven transformer core which is high silicon magnetic steel.  It seems finding the right location for an NS coil is the hardest part.

[MW383]

Tishatang,

I have redrawn your latest sketch. Is this right? Again this is a most interesting subject.

I have completed design interpretations for the 'battery' primary itself (electrochemical, electromagnetic, physical construction aspects) Bottom line is : This is a very elegant system that effectively integrates into a simple package, various systems of quite different nature. I am very impressed. I make a living at working outside the box but this design is a real dandy.

I have a ways to go in my understanding of the things you are discussing. I have obtained text books and am engaging my brain to learn these things. Since I am more mechanical and very lightly chemical, I am really starting at the beginning electrically. I'll get it eventually.

Regards,

MW383

[electricme]

@IotaUodi,

From what Ive read old coat hangers are soft iron. You could bundle those. 
You could also try a microwave oven transformer core which is high silicon magnetic steel.  It seems finding the right location for an NS coil is the hardest part.

,

If someone was to try soft iron coathangers it may work also, personally I would try getting even smaller iron wire, the more strands you could bundle tightly together the better, I suggest this if you need a big iron bolt and carnt get one. Perhaps mig welding wire cut to whatever length, feed each strand into a PVC tube to act as a mold to keep it together, then draw out all the strands and tape them up to keep them all together would be one way to make a long iron bar.
Its just a suggestion, dont even know if this would work.

Jeanna has made a stubblefield cell using several strands of iron, mabe she could shed some light on her technique.

Im back home, plowed through my PC, got rid of some antivirus I had running and its going faster now, I didnt turn it off last night so still do not know if the problem is fixed, we will see.

I have a PM to answer so I will fix that up shortly, then will make a start on my stubblefield winding machine in the shed.
I went mad, yesterday, got stuck into cutting up my shiny exercise machine lol.

1633 = close up of support post with center bearing
1639 = Pully reduction gearing, dont have motor v belt pully to show, gota find it.
1638 = Cross arms, have to remove peddal pusher power attatchments
1640 = square taper shaft, one on either end

I intend to attatch a socket the size of the nut on the bolt end, makes for easy application and transfer of turning force to bolt shaft when the maching runs.

The speed will be a PWM controler which I will fitt a forward and reverse switch to.
I will probably fit a ON OFF peddal switch for this purpose as I will need both hands to guide the wire as it is running.

More to come, lets see how this sends off to overunity

jim   

[electricme]

@all,

I have missgiveings to making my above suggestion. 
Bundling many strands of iron wire together, as the center iron, to make a stubblefield coil.

I have been thinking about this since I posted the above, and have decided to debunk my own recomendation, hmmmm you say.

My reasons for this are a genuine concern about the stability of the whole stubblefield coil assembly, during its construction phase.

Many strands of iron wire will also allow some "flex" between the iron strands, it could not be avoided, unless there was some process where it could be overcome in some manner then mabe it could be utilised later on. (I'm thing about a workaround for this).

What would occur is the flex of the iron strands as one turns the bifilar wire (Copper and Iron) over the bundled iron strands, we need to keep all the turns neat and tidy in this critical process, failing to do so will allow previous turns to drop downwards between previous turns, we dont need this.
As the bifilar wires are placed onto the former, the stresses will build, the flex becomes worse gradually until the geometery of the coil would suffer.

So I recomend no one tries the many strands of iron wire procedure, until we know more about it.

jim 

@Bill
Here is a circuit I drew up for you to have a play around with, sometimes we need to reduce a voltage to match the input voltage of a device, it could be anything. Utilising a LM317 adjustable voltage regulator and a handful of caps, and 1 resisror and a variable resistor we can achieve this.

This item can drive a low current device, even recharge a set of ni-cad cells, there is built in current protection on the LM317 adjustable regulator.

How it works,
up to 30 volts can be fed into the circuit, the caps filter out any ripples that might cause a problem to the item being used with it, the regulator (LM317) does not allow any higher voltage to pass, unless the "5 K ohm pot" is set to allow it to appear on the output leg of the IC.
If you need, say for instance, 3.7 volts on the output, 560ohms or slightly higher would do. Soldering that resistor in circuit "crow bars" the output to that voltage, no matter how high the voltage you feed into it.
Put a heat sink on the LM317 to keep heat to a safe level, as the excess voltage has to be sent somewhere, so it is designed to get red of the waist as heat.

1670 = main circuit, plenty of these on the internet.
1666 = where I got this one from

I have a habbit of buying heeps of electronic KITTs from JAYCAR electronics, I have about 10 waiting to put together.

jim