Earth Electrical Energy Datalogging Experiments

[jeanna]

Hi Jim,

So I recommend no one tries the many strands of iron wire procedure, until we know more about it.

umm.. but the way we find out is to try it out, isn't it? 

In the groups of folks making bedini motors, there is a method to stabilize the clump of sticks.
Most use some epoxy.
Once, I used a drinking straw, but that is a little small in diameter, however it worked really well. It gave me the advantage that I could remove the core from the inside of the coil.

Pirate has described pretty thoroughly how he epoxied his nails into a stable core for his bedini.

I think that description is in the bedini no rotor thread from jonnydavro.

Have fun with your bicycle... don't pedal too fast!

jeanna

[MW383]

Electrime,

I also have misgivings on my own bundled wire approach. I was literally using wire from a coil that I straightened out. I was able to get it bundled via simple fixturing but I do not have a clean round/straight geometry thus winding of primary too sloppy. Perhaps if I used proper rod stock this would have been better. The chap wanting to use coat hangers is probably a better way to cheaply bundle. One could just cut the long-straight lower horizontal piece of the hanger and use a bunch of them. Just do not attempt what I did. Jeanna has more proper rods and I would think this would work ok too.

I have after very careful consideration decided to stay crude and more in line with a period replica of the construction. I am rebuilding using the old parts I described in previous posts. I think with some basic construction principles this thing will still function so long as the ground mystery aspects are figured out. I remain very incouraged by what Tishatang presents.

Regards,

MW383

[jeanna]

... but I do not have a clean round/straight geometry thus winding of primary too sloppy. Perhaps if I used proper rod stock this would have been better. ...

I have after very careful consideration decided to stay crude and more in line with a period replica of the construction. ...
.... I remain very incouraged by what Tishatang presents.

I am also encouraged by what tishatsang has said.

I took a welding class (adult ed) for 2 semesters.
There was a propane forge and I made a forged hook set for a barn door kind of thing.
That metal no longer holds any magnetic polarization.
I had a permanent magnet stuck onto one end of part of it and it never remembered its polarity. It has become remarkably soft.

In Prof Lewin's wonderful physics class, he explains about the process of heating and hitting iron to remove its magnetic polarity.

The pity is that even tho I was doing stubblefield coils at the time of that class, I never got a piece of plain round iron to stick into the fire...

Every once in a while you can find a wrought iron shop.
They would have a piece of round iron that they could heat and hit and sell you. I am sure it would be very cheap, too.

jeanna

[electricme]

@all,
I have decided to really get into posting, as I simply dont know if my computer fix will last, lets hope it wont muck up.

God has given me an ability to see in my mind mechanical objects which I want to make, it's uncany this, I can see down to quite small details sometimes. I don't actually see a vision of the item, but I can visualise it without any effort.

I have had my thinking cap on for a while now, I spoke to Bill about the below item this morning, it's something I have been toying around with for a couple of years now, and relates directly to making Stubbifield Coils.

This is a wire winding machine, it would be quite simple to make and so I post the drawing here for anyone to have a go with it.

Many years ago, when the insulation was in its infantity, wire makers had to wind a silk or cotton thread over the bare wires so they would not short out, this was before TRS (Tough Rubber Sheathing) which was superceeded by more and better insulation that industry required. These days you can get heat insulated wires, for all purposes and situations.

So how does one wind literally miles of cotton onto a single strand of copper or iron wire?

Actually it is quite simple to do, but you need to make a jig with a revolving disk with a hollow center mounted on a hollow shaft. The hard bit is getting the wire feed and the cotton reels spinning physically around the wire as it is drawn through the machine. Both must be in sinc so there is an even coverage of cotton layed down, as the wire is drawn through the center of this jig assembly.
To do this, we can use 2 PWM circuits, each is setup initally, independently adjusting each drive motors RPM until you see a very even thin layer of cotton being applied over the wire as it is drawn through the shaft center.

You will need to set this up on a table, with a feed spool, fitted with a constant slip/friction brake tensioner.
The other end the wire is wound onto a blank spool, a DC motor is fitted to this side of the works.

The machine is setup with an bare spool of copper or iron wire, the free end is threaded into the hollow shaft which revolvs and attatched to the empty spool.

Next you slip on 5 spools of "overlocker" cotton thread.

Draw the thread to the side of the bare wire and clamp the cotton ends some way so they don't slip around the wire.

Start both motors together, the wire is drawn slowly through the machine, the rotating 5 bobbins , now must spin vertically around the outside of the wire as it is being drawn through the jig assembly.

As it starts off, you will see several gaps between the cotton as it is applied, to close the gaps, just increase the speed of the cotton reels, if this is going too fast, just slow down the wire as it is drawn through the jig.
Either adjustment will work OK.

Keep an eye out for creepage, this will show up as rises on the cotton being applied, or as gaps where the cotton has not been layed on the wire fast enough, what we need is an an even layer applied to the wire, no hi bits or exposed bits.

OK there is another thing to watch out for, diferent wire thicknesses.
Because of the difference of wire circumferences, each application will need to be setup for that particular size wire, take note of the pot position settings, write them down after doing some test runs, this will give you enough data to be able to re-setup your winding jig quite quickly.


Have I ever seen this working? NO, only in my mind, but it gives us all a method to wind our own cotton insulation on our own iron or bare copper wires.

Here are my drawings below
jim   

1657 = whole drawing of machine
1658 = overlocker cotton spools
1659 = Cotton spool plate holder seen placed flat, with 5 pegs
           the spools are sliped onto the pegs
1660 = Plan view of spool plate as seen
1661 = Side view (elevation) of jig and drive assembly
1662 = Takeup of cotton covered wire left side of jig
1663 = Take OFF reel of bare wire, not insulated on a spool

A resistance drag could be made of two flat sheets of wood with a spring and butterfly tensioner arrangement to put some slight tension on the bare drawn wire, or a drum brake made.
   

[MW383]

Bill,

You are my choice for winding mechanisation for when we have everything figured out and need to mass produce! I was once in my family CNC machining business and was the turning center guru (CNC lathes). So I tend to see things in feeds and speeds. Assuming a given rpm, a corresponding and optimal feed rate is applied. I see your system accomplishing this.

I like it!

, MW383