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Overunity Machines Forum



Magnetic Resonance Devices based on Don Smith Concepts

Started by xenomorphlabs, July 25, 2009, 08:00:09 PM

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Yucca

Quote from: xenomorphlabs on August 04, 2009, 02:01:19 PM
@Yucca : Do you have the possibility to ground your HV transformer (3) too?
Yes, I will definitely try this. Grounded to common earth and seperate earths. Also I will try grounding output stage -ve.

Quote from: xenomorphlabs on August 04, 2009, 02:01:19 PM
I believe that the earth connection at (7) is to provide a way for free electrons to enter the secondary (exactly like in Kapanadze´s secondary). But that`s just in theory.
If you use a variable resistor as indicated in the diagram, then that might work as a current limiter even. Smith himself has stated that .

I will probably use longish chain of cheap 0.25 watt resistors for this in a breadboard, each one is good for 150V at least. Then I can vary the resistance by swapping resistors etc.

I plan to make a standalone earthpoint in my garden for this, some stout copper wire buried as deep as I can get it. Maybe in spiral form? (but which way to spiral? lol)

Quote from: xenomorphlabs on August 04, 2009, 02:01:19 PM
How will you evaluate the output on the cap ? I think you need some kind of load to see the energy in action and to be able to measure the power.

Good to see that you have a go with the device and good luck with building it !
I am also waiting for some more parts and will continue working on mine, which actually is in principle the same device except for the voltage levels

I will definitely try lamps on the output; neon to 12V 220V filament, LEDs etc. If I feel the output is fairly well behaved I may even scope it, but this is definitely only maybe.

Thanks for the good luck. I like your build here and look forward to you trying different things with it when your parts arrive:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IQAvZtjzfKM

If you wind your secondary so the winds are very evenly spaced you may get better efficiency because it will increase the Q of the coil drastically.

I will post my build in this thread as it progresses, the thread title fits perfectly.

flathunter

Thanks for the great diagram Yucca - helps me more than you'd imagine.  I'm gonna be continuing on my quest to sort out part 3 on the above diagram - the high voltage flyback.

You said you used a 13005 transistor in your power supply.  Is there anything else I should know about it, before i go asking around the markets for it?  a Voltage or amp rating?  I realise the transistor is the most important piece in the circuit - Sorry to pester with questions!  I'll also go looking for the FWBR - but its difficult as i'm living abroad and explaining that i need 0.5mm wire can sometimes cause problems  ;D

Hope the exotic effects come quickly......Be Lucky! 

Yucca

Quote from: flathunter on August 04, 2009, 03:21:24 PM
Thanks for the great diagram Yucca - helps me more than you'd imagine.  I'm gonna be continuing on my quest to sort out part 3 on the above diagram - the high voltage flyback.

You said you used a 13005 transistor in your power supply.  Is there anything else I should know about it, before i go asking around the markets for it?  a Voltage or amp rating?  I realise the transistor is the most important piece in the circuit - Sorry to pester with questions!  I'll also go looking for the FWBR - but its difficult as i'm living abroad and explaining that i need 0.5mm wire can sometimes cause problems  ;D

Hope the exotic effects come quickly......Be Lucky!

Hi Flathunter,

When I originally purchased the 13005 transistors from ebay china I was looking for good voltage and high speed, I think if you can match the voltage tolerances and switching speed with some other device then it should work good for you, I´m not even getting close to pushing its max pulse current, but it´s close to breakdown with regard to voltage kickback I think.

The dual toroid choke on the input power rail is very important for cool running and efficiency and also less RF back into the supply, you want fast transients (in and out) to be ever so slightly smoothed.

I know what you mean about living abroad, I live in Spain and although I try to speak Spanish it is probably the level of a 3 year old at the moment lol. If you take this datasheet to the markets then they might be able to give you something just as good, maybe better:

http://www.datasheetarchive.com/pdf-datasheets/Datasheets-8/DSA-154785.pdf

P.S.
You can maybe use the original flyback primary switching transistor from the TV if you can locate it on the board, usually close to the flyback. Then use a 1k pot for biasing the base and bring it up real slow starting with the base grounded by the pot. Do this at 5V and you should hear oscillation begin at a certain point on the pot, after tuning for loudest then make a permanent divider using resistors. You need at least 0.5W capability for the lowest ohm resistor.

Peterae

The 13005 has been used in the past in some Tv's they can be bought under the code of MJE13005

You will find that a line output transistor is as good if not better and higher voltage.
I would use something like a BU2508AF or with integral diode BU2508DF

Peter

flathunter

Thanks Peter and Yucca!

I'm off transistor hunting later today, and some good news concerning my video camera.  It seems to be back in working order after its disagreement with the tesla coil.....perhaps just low on baterries  ;D  As soon as I get anywhere close to finishing the power supply, i'll get some vids of my setup on youtube.

Happy experimenting!