STEORN DEMO LIVE & STREAM in Dublin, December 15th, 10 AM

[esaruoho]

What are the chances someone will ask 'excuse me, Mr McCarthy, why the **** can't you substitute a capacitor for the battery?

pretty slim unless if someone schedules a flight there.

[dradak1]

I'm sorry, I still am not seeing what you are meaning.  How are you getting 1.3 watts out of 13v and 10ma before he inserts the iron?  My calculations say that is .13 watts, or 130mW.  Then after the amp meter drops to nothing, basically meaning less than 1 ma or so.  If it was 1 ma at 13 volts, that would be .013 watts, or 13mw after the iron was inserted.  I am assuming it was LESS THAN 1 ma, but we cannot tell for sure.  If so, that is not far from hitting the microwatt scale.

I am not seeing how you are getting 1.3 watts?  Am I looking at all this wrong, I don't think so.  But feel free to feed me some crow if needed, lol.

(EDIT)...  I would prefer my crow cooked slightly before I eat it... lol...  I just noticed I looked at the amp meter wrong.

Sorry captan but Paul is right (even he downplay a bit) before he insert the iron was around 200mA (every section on amp meter is 200mA) and when he inserted iron went down but not to 0 looks that there is around 20mA.

Dragan

[Groundloop]

@Staffman,

First, ask Gotoluc to send you a free Rosmary Anslie PCB (if he has more left).
Then build the switch with the component values as shown in the attached
drawing. The three pot-meters must be external to the PCB for easy adjustment.
You can use almost ANY hexfet transistor as long as it is a HIGH VOLTAGE type.
You can also use a HIGH VOLTAGE bipolar transistor as shown in my drawing.
If you choose to use a high voltage bipolar npn power transistor, then you MUST
use a diode across collector and emitter as show in the drawing. If you use a
high voltage N-Type power HEXFET then the diode can be omitted since
the hexfet already has a internal diode. This is step one.

Step two. Find three ferrite TUBES that normally is used as RFI shielding around
mains cables. Remove the plastic covering around the Ferrite tubes. Now wind two
of the Ferrite tubes with as much copper wire you can get onto the core. Go back
to page 60 in this thread, post 891, and check what copper wire I used. Use the
same wire thickness and number of wires.

Step three. Find an old used and empty solder tin plastic spool. Cut off the top
and bottom of the spool, leaving a few mm of the center tubing on each top
and bottom. Epoxy one plate at each end of the third Ferrite core tube. Next,
epoxy one toroid tube (ready winded with copper wire) to each end of the plates.
You then get a setup as shown on page 59, post 874.

Step four. Now wind the generator coil with 0,5 mm wire as many turns as you
have room for between the two plastic plates. Secure with tape when done.

Step five. Solder two ends from the outer toroid cores together. The two remaining
ends connects to the RA switch output connector. Look at the attached drawing.
Connect power to the unit and try out different magnets. Adjust for best output
voltage by using paper shims between magnets and toroid cores. No need to use
the biggest Neo magnets you have. Try finding the magnets that is strong enough
for you toroids.

Alex.

[penno64]

Hi Guys,

Not sure what you arguing over.

I guess the point is that the current draw reduces to something negligable.

I would love to replicate JBs setup and try to incorporate a generator ??

What do you think ?

Regards, Penno

[Bruce_TPU]

Hi Groundloop,

At what frequency is your toroid turning on and off?  I would think that increased frequency would produce more power on the coil and a lower frequency on the toroid, would produce less power on the coil.  Have you confirmed this?  Thanks!!

Cheers,

Bruce