New Jewel Thief "Resonate LCR Circuit" Much less energy draw....

[jadaro2600]

This thread is very interesting to me, I think i'm going to try to wind my own trigger coil - I just don't have the means to buy one at the moment.

Do these devices contain a ferrite core?

Judging by the simplicity of the schematics posted here, it seems all that I need is a small coil, with yet another coil wrapped about it each sharing a common connection?

[jadaro2600]

I just used a prefab inductor from a dsl filter, and wound about 20 turns of magwire around the outside, as described in my last post, I used a common lead, and a diode off the free end to a capacitor bridged to ground and it's reading 45 volts...

a capacitor from ground off a diode directed from the other free end of the 20 turns revealed 2.6 volts.

This was coming from a 1.2v source.  Pretty cool.  I'm not sure how many windings are on the inductor itself, but the ohmic resistance is about 3.8 ohms.

These trigger coils work pretty well on this circuit.

[jeanna]

Hi jadaro,
I just got a reply from jonny today about how to put it together, and he told me to take apart a flash camera circuit and use the trigger coil from there.
I did cuz I got 3/$1 from goldmine last year.
The wire must be a 40 awg. It is the skinniest wire I can imagine.
I am also planning to wind my own, but after I get this done.

Yes, in answer to your direct Q, it is ferrite wound like those helmholz inductors you used earlier this year, only with thin wire.

Sirmikey,
I pm'd jonnydavro because I was unable to get started because I am so far behind in making this kind of thing.
I will give you a copy of what jonny sent me so it can save him the trouble. These are clear instructions and worth repeating.
Thank you jonnydavro!

To get started you need 2 trigger coils.
1 for the oscilator and
1 to make a resonant reciever circuit.
These can be obtained from any flash camera or you can buy them from mouser.
If you use a camera coil,then you will need to solder three wires onto the pins.

The output is the top pin which goes to the xenon tube and use your multimeter to find continuity between the other two pins but make sure you don't use the output pin twice as i think it protrudes through to the bottom.
If you are going to use alu pans you will need two for the barebones(output and base ariel) and 4 for the full setup(output/base ariel/positive line /negative line)I find that when you use so many pans it takes a fair bit of space so i am using small stainless steel cups which i can get 4 for £1 at a local poundshop and these work really well and make it far easier to adjust things as when you build this you will find that pan placement plays an important part in performance.

So i will run through the build and i would do this on a breadboard and you need plenty of croc leads.
I have been measuring current with a voltmeter across a 1 ohm resistor on the positive input.

1.croc lead from batt positive to 1 ohm resistor
2.1 ohm resistor to primary of trigger coil +
3.negative of trigger coil to collector of mpsa06/2n2222/bc182 or try what you have handy
4.emitter of transistor to negative of battery
5.base of transistor to alu tray via croc lead
6.output of trigger coil to alu tray

This is the bare bones

7.croc lead from alu tray to negative or can be put in series with the negative input
8.croc lead from alu tray to positive or can be put in series with the positive input
Points to watch out for

To start the oscilator you want to have the base tray near the output tray and touch them together briefly or with your hand to get it going.
If it does not start,reverse your trigger coil primary connections.
Move the base tray away from the output tray to decrease amp draw and i have also found that if the negative output tray is brought near the base tray,amp draw is reduced.I position my trays/pots with the output tray on the left,base in the middle and negative to the right and leave the positive some distance away from these three.
You will need to make an led detector to see the wireless energy but you should see the voltmeter reading somthing.i would try and run it below 100mA and i find 50-60mA works good from a 12v supply.When you get it going you can experiment with lower voltages.

The led detector is just an avramenko plug with an led and a croc lead in a loop with each end connected to the one end of the avramenko plug.
The wireless reciever circuit is important as it amplifies the recieved signal and makes the leds really bright.
This consists of your 2nd trigger coil with the output going to a 10uh and then a 22uh inductor in series and then into an avramenko plug and then into a string of leds and of the negative leg of the last led you put a croc lead going to another alu tray as a virtual ground.

I am still not too sure which is the + lead is, so maybe someone here can help me.

jeanna

[sirmikey1]

Thanks Jeanna   Hopefully someone can post a drawing once all of the detalis are worked out.  MASS REPLICATION AND THIS WONT GO AWAY...
Dr. Stiffler called it "near infinite lighting".  These circuits can be referred to as the milk and the meat!  The meat is the "Lighting Maker" (current magnification) IMO.   Just my 2 cents...

Exciting...
Mikey

[slayer007]

I noticed the exiter seems to run better when it's under load.
In this video I have the pan with the AV plug going to a big 12v battery for a load.
I also thought it was kinda cool how the cfl will light off the run battery.

I don't think it will charge the big battery but I'll let it run for awhile and see.

Here is the video.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=79EIv-na_o8