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Overunity Machines Forum



Agentgates´s TPU setup with strange wavehill hump

Started by agentgates, January 05, 2010, 09:28:18 AM

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0 Members and 12 Guests are viewing this topic.

gotoluc

Hi everyone,

I decided to start a topic to help new or existing user to prepare a video for YouTube.

Please see here and I ask you respect my posting requirements: http://www.overunity.com/index.php?topic=8628.msg221296#new

Please direct anyone that may need assistance there as it may save them much time. Even if you think you know you maybe surprised with the results.

Luc

ketone

Here's a formula for calculating the distance between winds:
                                                                                      S=r0   where: S=arclength
                                                                                                          r = radius
                                                                                                          0=degrees but in radians( so you have to convert to radians)


altair

Broli, Fatbird,
it would be plausible that turning the device upside down would alter its characteristics, because even if the winding still LOOKS the same, the current is now reversed and probaly affects the aether vortex. To visualize, just wind one turn of wire around a toroid core, and imagine the current spiraling down the wire. You have to consider the rotation of the wire itself, AND also the rotational direction it has to follow around the core.

altair

@ teslaalset,
indeed it doesn't work.
When you have done one full turn around the core, we should be exactly 3 notches away from our start position.
The 2 free notches will be used later for primary 2 and pri 3.
So to get back at Pri 1, from this picture:
http://www.samsonium.org/sites/default/files/P1070265.JPG
Tony has divided the core in 12 sections, and by following one wire, we can see that one turn (one up-and-down triangle) takes 4 sections. That means he has 3 complete turns of wire for each revolution of the core. Not 4 as in broli's simulation. (But I doubt it makes any difference.)
Anyway, for this to work, I think there should be a total number of notches that correspond to three times the spacing required for one turn of wire, minus 2.
So in our case, if one turn of wire needs 36 notches, that makes 36 x 3= 108. Minus 2= 106 notches.

I have difficulty understanding the relationships, being mathematically challenged already  :D

But I have wound the standard (Tony's design) core of 108 notches with one primary and space left for 3 more (for a 4 phase unit) and it fits perfectly. The wire makes only 2 turns around the core for each revolution, and needs 56 notches for each turn. There is a total of 27 turns to complete a revolution of the core. I attach a pic. Note that the height of the core needs to be higher in this case to retain the 90 deg angle of the wire crossings. So for a dia of 4", the height is 3.25".

Now back to our 3-phase problem, if you can figure out the exact number of notches needed, that would really be fantastic.
I think I'll try one with 106 notches just to try to figure it out.

Cheers.
Quote from: teslaalset on January 10, 2010, 03:38:58 PM
@  Broli
Awesome instruction!
One issue I encountered during my coil implementation:
If you use exactly 45 degrees, then after 4 time up-down winding you end up exactly at the beginning angle. This means if you want to continue, you have to make one winding at 55 degrees or 35, which disturbs the patron.

In the picture below I am trying to visualize this issue.
Each rectangle represents 10 degrees of the circle.
You can find 36 rectangles in total, representing on circumference of 360 degrees.
The black lines are according an angle of exact 45 degrees.
The red lines use a 50 degree angle.

The red lines will use same angle every time while the black line needs once a 360 degrees a different angle, which disturbs the symmetry of the coil.

altair

I forgot to mention that once you have wound all the turns for one primary, you should arrive exactly at your starting point, the same notch that you used to begin the wind.
That is if everything is correct, of course...

Also, if you're using acrylic tube, just sand it inside & out so it looses its transparency and becomes much easier to work with.